Quote from danielJ_209-09(6b): "What problem does pre-germinating solve for you?..." Thanks for the reply. I was thinking the upside for us would be: --- that if we do get a torrential flooding in the days of pre- germination, the seed is still inside and intact instead of flooded out and washed away down the ditch. --- Also, the pre-germinated seeds will have a headstart and take root faster? We can watch the weather and try to choose a shorter window for reseeding. --- I think it'll be easier to rinse the seed inside for those days than to keep it watered outside multiple times in a day. (Even though we don't need to reseed anywhere near the 3 acres, and not all of it is subject to flooding.) No worries, we'll do the proper work of preparing the ground, and of keeping it moist once it's broadcast. Note, I definitely would not try to trowel on a seed mixture as the Original Poster did! I've got a lot more area to reseed than 9ftx12ft! The author at http://homeguides.sfgate.com/pregerminate-grass-seed-40392.html says we can broadcast the pre-germinated seed in a mix. Assuming we CAN broadcast manually or with a spreader, I don't see a downside to pre-germinating. Maybe I should try a trial run of the method with a small amount of seed, and see how well it mixes and then broadcasts in various media. Quote from danielJ_209-09(6b): " Is there any way to install a simple drain from your low spot to the street before you seed? Your lawn isn't going to fare well if it gets submerged or at least saturated with water." Right. The lot does clear of flooding very quickly, though -- usually in a few hours. When we moved here, the grass was established,. It has never had a problem surviving well in the area. Any downpours and flooding situations (say 5" of rain in a few hours) are short-lived and it doesn't take long to dry out. The grass was mistreated, or the original grass would still be healthy. It's not a boggy area at all. We do seem to have had more of these downpours this Summer than normal, so they're on my mind as I think of Fall reseeding. But rain is welcome after some weeks that were too dry. We already have a dry well to help with flooding (about the size of a small car). We originally graded quite a bit, but the bottom of the wide and shallow ditch is not low enough given the sudden downpour or I suppose mainly the ability of the ditches to handle the water downstream from us. Neighborhoods were added; fields were usurped. There's nowhere else for that water to go except downstream, and it has to wait its turn. Luckily it all drains very well as soon as the water system can handle it, and water has never backed up anywhere near the house. I know the bottom of the ditch is higher than our foundation but it's a long gradual slope -- to the unpracticed naked eye it looks pretty flat. That concern about flooding in these areas is the main reason I thought of pre-germination to shorten our risk of losing any new seed before it's established. It's too long a line along the ditch to put in sandbags until grass is established. Who knows, the weather this Fall may be great for reseeding. Just thought we'd lessen the risk. And if there is a recommended mat or even burlap we might use in the most flood-prone areas that could be used over pre-germinated seed, I'll price it out. But I was thinking even a mat wouldn't help with a flood. Worst case, if reseeding doesn't take this time, I could lay sod in a few of those areas. I think plugs would be a lot of work. And overkill -- this is a 3 acre field.

Well today all of a sudden all the leaves that froze on my southern red oak fell off at once today. It looks like it spit them out and new green ones are coming out. Exciting and interesting to see a springtime fall.

Not really skilled in your issues, but happy to offer advice anyway :) 1) I don't think the tips are wicking moisture, I think they are the least developed part of the canes/branches, also the most exposed during winter, therefore the most likely to die. For my raspberries, I often prune the tips before freeze-up but that's really just to control some very tall canes. Tip-kill isn't going to hurt them, and you can prune it out in the spring if that's easiest. 2) Yes, to harden them better keep the soil on the dry side from now on, then give them a good watering a week or so before the ground usually freezes, if you wish. Personally, I rarely water my raspberries in the fall, unless it's been exceptionally dry. 3) I'd do nothing, just let them figure it out for themselves. Plants might not have brains, but they still know winter is coming and they will work it out.

ANY tea is what byron was referring to, but that's just for softening the hull for germination. Something to do with the tannins in the tea. One could use it for germinating, but I opt for(first and foremost) FRESH seed, scarification( piece of sandpaper in a pill bottle and give a good shake for a half minute, and an overnight soak in plain tap water(24 hours seems better though. And last but not least, keeping them at a constant warm temp(mid 80's F) up until they peek their heads up. Seysonn: I suppose you could use it regularly without harm(make it the way byron tells you to so it's a very weak solution). I just prefer the H2O2 solution for damping off prevention(1 part 3% H2O2 to 4 parts water). I have used the chamomile solution when I've run out of peroxide and it seems to suffice. Regarding your trial and error thing... I do the same thing but have it down pretty pat by now. Note though-- better to error on the side of 80-85 than 85-90. Don't want to cook them. Also, make sure your meat therm is calibrated -- mine was off by 25 degrees a couple years ago and I kept cooking them until I figured it out...lol. Kevin This post was edited by woohooman on Tue, Jan 27, 15 at 22:12