Plants can be saved from molds if it doesn't progress too far. Molds only grow in damp stagnant air conditions. So you need to dry the soil and pot out substantially and cut way back on the watering. Most important improve the air circulation. Use a small fan to increase the air circulation all around them. You may lose those leaves but the new growth should be ok. Some also suggest lightly misting the undersides of the leaves with a 1:10 diluted of hydrogen peroxide in water. I have no personal experience with that. But bottom line, yes, cucumbers will always do better when direct seeded out doors at the proper time. As for the peat pots, if you keep using them then despite what the manufacturer says, be sure to strip them off the root ball prior to transplanting. Dave

Thanks for your hints, MD. Yup, I think this is merely insect damage. However, I find those spots too large to be only from aphids. I am guessing it is a combination of aphids, striped beetles and maybe other critters as well. I have Bug B Gon insecticide from EcoSense. I am trying to keep things organic (although I do think that chemicals are no big deal as long as you really want to care for a plant and they don't damage anything you don't mean to, like the neighbour's crop). It says here that it will control all stages of aphids, spider mites and whitefly, spittle bugs, adult and nymph stages of thrips, flea beetles, caterpillars, mealybugs, scale insects and sugar ants. It contains 0.5% pyrethrin and is lebeled as a skin irritant. Here's the deal. I don't like that it is organic AND pretends to take care of all these bugs. If it were true, then nobody would have harmful bugs anymore, so I am suspicious. Somehow, I am thinking it may be damageable to the plants and may also kill beneficials (I am very lucky to have swarms of ladybugs). Do you think the benefits of using it would outweigh the risks? If I indeed have striped beetle damage, this product wouldn't work. Can I do something against those that can be made at home or that is easily purchased? Also, I have Bug B Gon insecticide soap (supposedly controls aphids, earwigs, mealybugs, spider mites, psyllids, pear and rose slugs [sawfly larvae], soft brown scale and whitefly--the soap 47% potassium salts of fatty acids and is lebeled as a skin and eye irritant), but I still don't understand the difference between insecticide and insecticidal soap. Both are used in the same concentration, applied the same way and at the same frequency, so what is the difference? Which one should I use? Should I use one this week and the other next week and alternate? Also, I think right now would be a good time to spray. It is a bit windy, but otherwise, we have nice cloud cover. There is a risk of rain later on and all through the week. Would spraying these products during a cloudy day (daylight but cool and no sunshine) be a problem? I don't want to miss my chance. Please, help as this is about my first bug challenge and I am pretty much a noob.

My spots are more orange than yellow, almost a rusty color, but I know that color is subjective. I have read the feedback and still haven't found a solution, just that many other folks had this problem. I'm in zone 7 and planted some seedlings as I'd arrived too late to plant from seed. They were doing great but the lower leaves of 2 out of 4 plants have these dry looking orange spots. Any ideas of what to actually do about it, what it might be? Thanks!!

Hi! I'm so sorry, Jean001a, I haven't replied sooner but i have been away (got the neighbor to look after the garden :). Thank you for you response. I had used miracle grow organic all purpose plant food NPK: 7-6-7 when i transplanted the plants to their grow bags. (i don't know what it is made up of though). Luckily it seems as though they have recovered. the leaves are mostly green. However, i think that the fertilizer had too much nitrogen as the plants are now 1m tall and are only just starting to set their first trusses of flowers.