Bringing plumeria out of dormancy
nnpiner
15 years ago
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tdogdad
15 years agonnpiner
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Bringing bulbs back out of dormancy
Comments (10)I really love La Paz and Striped Panther. They shoot up a lot of scapes and love to bloom. Their bulb looks like an onion with tight neck, but when they are planted, they really shoot up a lot of leaves. I consider them keeping evergreen, just for the look of the leaves. They look like some palm leaf coming out of the pot... A lot of people don't really like Striped Panther, because it does not have such an impressive bloom. It is a white trumpet with burgundy stripes. It is not the most beautiful, but when you have three scapes blooming at the same time, it is nice. I really like it. The scapes are very high, so they are different from the other trumpet varieties. It is hard to get. I read somewhere, that when they came out with it, it did not sell that well, so they decided not to push it anymore, so they are winding this variety down. Maybe one more year, and they are not producing it anymore... I don't know if it is true, but I am glad I bought it two years ago....See MoreBringing VFT Out of Dormancy
Comments (23)Pictures? Did someone ask for pictures? Ooh, I do like that :) It's actually a difficult topic, because dormancy looks very different, depending on the set-up.... In the wild, the old traps likely die off, and a winter rosette of small, slowly forming traps forms during dormancy, then tall, vigorous spring traps plus a flower stalk emerges when the plant breaks dormancy. In the fridge, the plants are really in suspended animation, so there should be no or little change from when you put them in the fridge to when you take them out. In reality, the old traps from the previous year will probably turn black and die, but the bulb should stay white and healthy. In MY conditions, where frost threatens from late September through to late May each year, here's what happens with respect to dormancy: By September, the plants pretty much stop putting up new traps, so I end up with mature plants with mature traps, and little new growth. The weather is cooling, and the days are getting much shorter, and the plants sense this and stop growing...they go dormant. I bring them indoors to a basement window with a bit of sun by late September. They look like this: I overwinter plants in a basement window with only a bit of sun, but with winter temps typically 45-55F near the window. A new rosette of tiny winter traps forms, and the older traps may either continue to live, or gradually die. By mid-late November, a rosette of tiny winter traps has clearly formed around the center of the rosette. The big summer traps remain healthy: In this February pic, most of the old traps remain quite healthy, as does the rosette of winter traps, but there are a few more vigorous traps starting to form -- the first sign of the plant wanting to break dormancy, about 5 months after going dormant. Fast forward to March 9, now 6 months after the flytraps went dormant, and they are aggressively trying to break dormancy. You can see the vigorous new growth of spring traps, which have overwhelmed the tiny winter traps. Amazingly to me, many of the old traps from last August and early September still remain healthy. (In another pot I have, those older traps died off over the winter.) Anyway, that's my experience with dormancy, hope it helps. Now how to keep my plants semi-dormant for another two months until I can put them outside... hmmm. -Don...See MoreHow to bring bare root out of dormancy?
Comments (3)1. no. Soil needs to be fast draining and not hold moisture long. Jack's blend which I use is equal parts of Kelloggs Big R (bark); Turf n Tee; pumice; and perlite. However, many people have trouble finding these products east of the Rockies so they use bark, sand, mulch and perlite or cactus mix with perlite or other combinations to keep the soil mix airy and fast draining. Be careful because many commercial potting soils have beads to retain water mixed into the soil. 2. 3-4 inches 3. No. That is a routine for a cutting that needs to start roots. When a plant has roots it can handle moisture. However, I feel that you keep a plant on the dry side and increase the water as the leaves grow because the plant takes up more water with leaves. Drench and then let dry out- don't keep soil always wet. 4. No. Never fertilize on dry roots. Water and then a day or two later you can fertilize. Some people wait and fertilize a week or two later but i have had no problem watering the first week. Keep granular or pellet fertilizers away from the stems as these will burn the stems. Bill...See MoreQuestion on plumeria dormancy under winter grow lights
Comments (20)I received four plumerias last spring (in Minnesota) and planted them in pots and kept them inside in front a sunny East window until temperatures rose outside. Then I put them on the on the outside South patio. They leafed out nicely. When it started getting cold, I brought them and put them in my bedroom which faces south. I placed them there in the sun and added a small grow light which I left on 12 hours a day plus they received the sun on sunny days. I watered them well once a week. They have grown a lot and are full of leaves. They did not go dormant and I never had any bugs nor root rot. I am planning to put them back on the south patio in mid-June when all danger of frost is gone. Since they never had a chance to go dormant, I was wondering if that would hurt them? And, I was wondering when I should start fertilizing them? Should I start now (early April) or wait until I move them outside? The are very healthy, large, and beautiful. Many thanks for any help/answers anyone can give me....See Moretdogdad
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