Need advice on growing a Windmill Palm in the North (Pennsylvania

14 years ago

I realize this may not be the brightest idea but I am going to try to plant a windmill palm at my home here in Southwestern Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh area). Has anyone had success with this type of venture in a similar area?

Also, I have heard several different things as far as what type of fertilizer to use (if any) and how to protect in in the winter (build a wire cage around it, put blankets over it, etc.).

I have heard it should be planted in a well-drained area, but I am a little unsure as to why that is. I would think the palm would need a lot of moisutre, so why would it need to planed somewhere where the moisture gets absorbed?

Last question, I am attempting to plant it in decorative rocks besides our swimming pool? Is that a bad idea because it would be more difficult for water to get to it? Would it have to be planted on flat ground or could it be a bit of slope?

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Comments (7)

tropicalzone7
14 years ago
I actually think its a really good idea! With some protection they should be able to make it through the winter just fine. one of mine survived 14F with no protection and no damage and it was completely covered in snow 3 times (the leaves were bent because of that though).
For my more tender palms I tie the leaves up, cover the whole thing in x-mas lights, put a frost cloth over that, and a plastic garbage bin over that. I also did this for one of my windmill palms with no problems.
These palms actually prefer less moisture during the winter months (if you could keep it from getting any moisture from November to March that would be great and this is the reason why they like well draining soil) so I dont think a slope will be a problem at all. You may want to occasionally water it during the summer since they do like water, but only when its warm. Fertilizer also helps get these plants growing well, but stop fertilizing them around August because they should not be actively growing once winter arrives because that lowers there cold tolerance.

Good luck!
va_canuck
14 years ago
I have successfully kept a queen palm alive through 3 winters here in Virginia - it has survived 8 F (queen palms are normally killed in the low 20s) so I would imagine your challenge is a similar one.

I wrapped my in one layer of plastic, then snaked a rope light around it starting at the bottom and working my way up to the top - 175 W total for 15 feet of tree - leaves included. Then, another layer of plastic and some duct tape to keep it together. On top of the leave plume I put a very loose plastic yard bag.

I waited as long as I safely could to wrap it up, and I unwrap it when conditions permit (which last winter was almost never). For a windmill palm, I think this probably means you can put off wrapping it until you have nights dipping below 20 F for the first winter it's in the ground and maybe 12-15 for years after that.

Good luck!
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I planted one last spring and I wanted mine to make it no matter what. I plamted mine facing south . October I built a small structure with 2 by 4's . In between the studs I insulated with 2 inch foam and wrapped with plastic. I left 2 openings 2 by 3 ft. for windows. I set over palm and roofed it with osb with shinges. I then ran electric and mounted an outlet inside where i placed 2 spot lights in the ground below my windmill palm. I also put small fan to get air movement. I ran a switch inside to control the outlet. Then I filled all around the structure with straw. On top I put more plastic over straw to keep it dry. The windows I made are removeable so I can get inside or remove when it get above 40 degrees. I am able to monitor the temp inside from the house. The lowest temp was 32degrees when it was below zero. It keeps the temp. 25 to 30 degrees above the air temp. the best thing is that it stays dry. I will remove the 2 windows in a week or 2. And then when all the Aptil rain is over I will remove the structure. It weighs about 200 pounds so I will be able to lift with help and store it till fall. I did it this way so I would not have any chance of losing it. I spent 2 hours building it so its not a big deal. I will have to build a new one if it grows alot bigger. You can do it this way or you can take your chances and pray for a very mild winter. They are not meant to grow here after all. Hope this helps,,,Bill
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Two things: I'm not an expert but based on your description: the opening that you left at the top (with some of the fronds sticking out) served as a catch for any water from rain. Gravity sent the water down the frond to the crown where it collected and with no air to keep it dry-fungus and bacteria formed to eat away at the crown and then downward. Ironically, given the size and your Trachy coupled with your mild winter, you probably would have not had any problems had you left it unprotected with only sprays and mulch. Two: when you bought the palm, was the connecting trunk exposed(above the dirt line)? I ask this because it is bad to raise the dirt line on any tree and I noticed that you can't see it in the pictures. As far as a remedy, Jim gave you the best advice to save the taller trunk. The only other thing I would do is spray the top of the new trunk with copper fungicide to make sure it is all killed. You can use my Beet/Banana formula to give it a nutrient rich boost which couldn't hurt. Hopefully the whole specimen can come back. Good question about cutting away the damaged trunk-I honestly have no idea. Logically speaking, it's not like they share a heart or any other vital organs so I don't why it can't be done. But again, that is an opinion and not based on expertise. Either way, I would hold off and see if you can save it as a whole first. Good Luck and I wish you Guys the best. This post was edited by Kokomo-JB on Mon, Apr 8, 13 at 10:42
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Any good 10-10-10 or 8-8-8 fertilizer should be fine in your area since you don't have sand as your soil like in Florida or the coast. I have found Windmills get all they need from clay or loam soils with out the need for supplemental palm specific fetilizer. Composted manure, good mulching and water will keep your palm very happy and healthy.
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What wetsuiter said. Even if some fronds may not look the best but are still mostly green, they are probably still doing their jobs and providing the plant with much needed energy from photosynthesis. Leaves, while they are pretty/ nice to look at, are an extremely important organ for any tree/ plant. Leaves also perform sevreal important functions on plants such as respiration and transpiration. If you ever get the chance to study plants / trees and all of their organs that help to make them function you will be amazed at the complexity. The palm you got from walmart, ericthehurdler got it right. Parlour Palm. The scientific name or botanic name is Chamaedorea Elegans. Those are a fantastic family of palms. Chamaedorea Elegans are in fact a SOLITARY palm. The reason they come how you got them, with many plants all clumped together is because growers often just germinate 10-20 or so seeds in a pot, and poof, you have a 'plant'. But, what you in fact have in that pot, is probably 10-20 small individual palms. It is up to you if you wish to separate them out. Often in the past what I have done is separated out the 1-3 largest ones and left the others to grow more. Also another thing that can, and does happen is that some of them may eventually die off. Personally, I find a single one of these palms in a pot by itself more appealing, espeically when they get older. I have a few, and one of them I got from a pot similar to yours. It was the largest, but still a young plant with no trunk. It now has about 7 to 10 leaves, has shed about 6 leaves, and has about 4 inches of clear trunk on it and is taking on the classic palm tree appearance. Mine is about 4 years old now, (the amount of time I have had it) but it is probably more like 6 years old in total. They grow fairly SLOW. They are probably one of, if not THE easiest palms to take care of. Virtually bullet proof. Very hard to over / underwater them, though I would err on the side of underwatering them because they can handle that easily, and also do not need tons of light. You can successfully grow one of these in a north facing window that gets hardly any direct sun with no problem. In fact, since they are an understory palm that grows only several feet or so high on the forest floor, they prefer mainly indirect or very filtered light, and NOT direct sunlight. Direct sunlight can burn the leaves. I have had one burn on me with just one day's exposure to full sun. Also, this palm, and all the other palms in its genus (Chamaedorea) are mainly jungle palms, so many prefer the lower light conditions, somewhat elevated humidity, and fairly warm temps. Definitely NOT cold hardy. That said, there are some that can HANDLE some abuse, and the palm that you have gotten is one of those palms. Anyway Best of luck with both of your palms!
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jacklord
14 years ago
Quite doable as long as you follow the basics and stay on top of things.

Get the biggest one you can afford. Plant it with southern exposure.

Winter protection is obligatory and there are many methods. I think you should heavily mulch the base of it. Then construct a wire or mesh cage around it and stuff it with leaves- enough so that the crown is protected. If you can construct some kind of roof over it, all the better. This has protected my windmills down here in the DC area. Do that and you will have a palm.

In a few years, the palm may be big enough to withstand winter without the suit of armor. But I am not sure about your climate. Cross that bridge later.

Go for it.
brooklyngreg
14 years ago
It has been done sucessfully in your zone - here's some key tips that will make it real doable. I realize its not against a warm-side of your home and so the precautions are greater.

#1 plant it soon. August is too late for it to properly acclimate. Try to plant a sizeable palm thats 4-5 yrs old. They can be stronger if planted earlier.

#2 do not water it after October for your area and cover it to keep it dry or it will most likely die. The enclosure should be vented for sunny days - too warm in the winter is not good. Keep in mind that cold winds and palms don't mix.

#3 You can warm it with Christmas lights on fridgit nights, simply wrap it with lites before you place an enclosure over the palm.
cali-wanna-b
14 years ago
I am in PA also. The best protection is an insulation board box with heat added. The best tip i can give you is that no matter what method you chose, keep the plant dry during the winter and early spring. I have lost more plants to moisture than cold. Good luck!
billn119
14 years ago
I agree with the last post. It doesnt make sense to just wrap it,,,or the cage of leaves. When winter is over,,,You may find ur palm alive, but it will take all summer to grow back. I say,,protect it and keep it above 45 degrees,,,and dry also. My windmill was 2 ft in 2006,,,and its 6ft now,,,and is growing in the winter also. I live in northern ohio,,,good luck!!!
tropicalzone7
14 years ago
Just make sure that you dont overheat it. I wouldnt let it get any higher than 80F in your climate during the winter months because it should not be actively growing and if it does get warm during the day it could get significantly warm in the protection. Also you can leave the protection on all winter, but its probably best to take it off when warmish to lessen the risk of rot.

Good luck!
-Alex

Need advice on growing a Windmill Palm in the North (Pennsylvania

Comments (7)

tropicalzone7

va_canuck

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