They bloom, and yours should to, in theory, although I have no idea how to finagle them into doing so. They're supposed to get neat flowers too. Also they're sort of euphorbias so standard warning about the sap applies. The genus might even be part of Euphorbia now. I'm not honestly sure. Mine is braided around some plastic thing that I can't get out of it and now it's growing at weird angles. I've decided to give up on controlling it an just let it do whatever. Yours is really nice and full. Also there are interesting other cultivars of this, by the way.

I'll get those pics posted! The advice I got today was not to hurry to prune off any freeze damage until we're sure the risk of freeze is over. We haven't had any freeze in so many years, it's hard to remember what to do! Although the days are in the 70's, it is so dry that the nights are around 40 and could dip down further. Lots of fire risk right now, and no rain, oddly. So much looks bad (I've got to replace those impatiens and oxalis!), especially now that we're pruning the roses. Only the camellias are bursting with blooms. So pictures of the garden will demonstrate that all is not glitter in tinseltown!! Did you know there's a rose group called the Tinseltown Rose Society? Anyway, yes, the kids keep me busy. And Kitty. And our turtle Lili (or Timmy, if it turns out to be a male) and our fish (especially mine, Howard). I also made the mistake of missing a meeting at my son's school, and next thing you know, I'm chairperson of the hospitality committee, running around to Costco to get munchies and flowers for community events, open house, etc. How did this happen? IT'S A NIGHTMARE!!!! (just kidding!) I'm never missing a meeting again. Oh, and there was the "Macbeth" performance. I made several costumes, including my son's (he played Macbeth) and had fun creating props (like a torch made out of PVC pipe with a PVC cup on the end, a little flashlight thing placed in the cup, surrounded by tin foil and yellow and red cellophane (for flames). We covered the entire thing with dark brown duct tape (did you know they make that?) and it looked great! We donated everything to the school for future productions. Next play: Greater Tuna. Don't ask. I still haven't put my sewing machine away. Probably because no one knew I had one and everyone was completely amazed at how well I faked being a seamstress. I loved all the adulation! Max's friends thought I was so cool, they want me to make them costumes for the next anime convention they're going to this weekend. Forget it! I'm a lawyer!!!

Well, I kinda like the "Lots of Love" idea. Heh. That year I had such great success with my candy onions -- actually great success with ANY onion -- I did something that I don't know if it helped or not. I soaked them in Jerry Baker's "Root Revival Tonic": 1 tbsp of mild dish soap, 1/4 cup of strong tea and 1 tbsp epsom salt, mixed well into 1 gallon of water. This is from his book, "Old-Time Gardening Wisdom". I had used it to soak some bushes I was planting and instructions said up to 24 hours. I didn't soak the onions in it but about an hour. They made the water really "onioney" and I was worried I'd made a big mistake. But I set them out right away and those were the best and biggest onions I'd ever grown. I also didn't set them out till April 15, the approximate date of our last frost. We got a frost after that and I went out and covered them all. What concerns me is that sometimes the frost will cause the onions to think they've had another winter, and that triggers bolting to seed. Last year, I didn't soak the onions. I put the ones I got from Dawn out immediately, which was sometime in early March, I think. And then I planted Southern Belle Red later on. Of course it was a weird year and so hard to judge because of that. Got some decent-sized onions from Dawn's plants, but nothing like the previous year, others stayed small and a few of them went to seed. The Southern Belles that were planted later didn't bolt to seed but they didn't grow any, either. I dug them back up and will be planting them around April 15 to see if they'll go ahead and do anything. This year, whatever I end up getting, I'm going to try the soak again, and wait till April 15. I know this goes against standard practice, but it did work for me that one year. Maybe I was just having "Dumb cluck luck". We'll see what happens.

Growing an Aloe Vera (or most other Aloe species - there are more than 300 of them!) is not a difficult matter, if a few basic rules are followed: If grown in a pot, allow the root ball plenty of room to grow; aloes are voracious growers, and having space to do so is necessary. When you repot, allow a growing area three to five times the size of the root ball. Use a well-draining soil. The number of soils A. vera will grow in is quite large, but a basic cactus mix available at home improvement centers is quite suitable. You may wish to experiment with other soils, but one thing it needs is to be well draining, so even a home-made concoction of 1/3 sand, 1/3 soil, and 1/3 pumice/gravel is better than straight potting soil. Aloes don't like to be cold and they don't like wet feet. Pot up your aloe in soil up to the root ball. Use top dressing (gravel/pebbles) on top of the soil to give it a finished look, hold down the dirt, and reduce evaporation. Do not water a newly repotted aloe for a few days. This gives it a chance to get used to its new home, as well as allowing time for any roots that have broken to seal themselves. After a few days, a light watering, perhaps with some B-1 in the water, is recommended. Most aloes grow vegetatively from April to October so water regularly with that in mind. The rest of the year, watering twice a month is sufficient. Water when the soil is dry - rainwater is the best - so that may mean twice a month, or once a week, or some combination thereof. Aloes are very forgiving and they can go a long time without water, but they grow best with it. If in doubt about watering, don't water. Don't forget - they shouldn't be cold and wet. Some aloes will withstand a freeze, but many will turn to mush. No one wants a mushy aloe! Fertilize from April through Septrember, twice a month, with a low-nitrogen fertilizer, heavily diluted. You can try Miracle-Gro 15-30-15, diluted to about 1 to 5. Many aloes produce 'pups'. When the pup is fully formed, detach it from the mother plant, let it callus over for a few days in a cool, dry area, and pot it up. If it has roots, pot as you would a regular aloe, allowing for the fact that it is smaller and should be in a suitably sized pot for its size. If it has no roots, let it callus over, place the cut/broken end ON the soil, and support it with top dressing. DO NOT WATER IT-it has no roots, so watering the soil will likely cause rot. Instead, mist it every few days. Roots should start forming within a month. When growth is evident, it can be watered. Aloe vera flowers are yellow, but others flower in hues of pink/red/orange/white/gray. They start as a spike that gradually gets larger and finally opens, lasting a long time. Aloe flowers are beacons for hummingbirds, so be prepared to be buzzed by these lovely creatures if you are amongst your aloes when they are flowering. For more information, seek out fellow succulent plant people, join your local/national society, and take advantage of the advice and experience they are able to offer. Stop by our Cacti and Succulents forum for tips and friendly conversation. Lastly, these are not ironclad rules. What works for others may not work for you. Experiment a little if you think that's what is needed as your growing conditions are likely different. Aloes are very adaptable creatures, within limits, of course.