The search feature here should have returned lots of info on grubs, including the link below. Here is a link that might be useful: Home Lawn Grub Control

No problem. It can be put down whenever the ground isn't frozen...if it were me, I'd wait 'till next year and not forget (buy it now, I don't recall an expiration on it) :) Since they're pretty much done eating, especially near the surface, I would worry about it kinda "diluting", if that makes sense...not sure if that's possible or not, just one of those things that crossed my mind. I just made sure to put it down at the peak time of year, thinking that it would be "better". I do believe the reasoning for the teaspoon every 4x4 is to have a high concentration of spore, and thus a better chance of a grub ingesting the spore and spreading it. It may take longer to really work if you put it down now, versus at the peak heating/feeding of grubs. Quick search turned up an faq... "Q: What is the shelf life of Milky Spore? A: Milky Spore has unlimited shelf life as long as it is stored in a cool dry place."

Beneficial Nemetodes are the way to go. Beneficial Nematodes - Organic Insect Control Beneficial nematodes are underground pest hunters that control over 250 different species of insects that spend some part of their lives underground. They are a very efficient organic insect control method and kill most insects before they become adults. This includes lots of common lawn and garden pests such as grubs, fleas, mole crickets, japanese beetles and weevils. Beneficial Nematodes - Just what are they? The beneficial nematode is a small microsopic worm that lives below the soil. The picture seen here is of a juvenile nematode called a scarp. It is generally clear or white in color and has no segments like earthworms do. There are over 20,000 different kinds of nematodes that live in the soil and a small handful of dirt will generally contain thousands of them. Nematodes are considered parasites and can affect a number of different plants and animals. Some species of nematodes are considered pests, but these are not the same species of beneficial nematodes used to control insects. We recommend that a combination of beneficial nematodes be applied for organic insect control (Steinernema and Heterorhabditis), these are actually two different strains of beneficial nematodes which are parasites to other insects and spend their lives hunting and killing them. These nematodes will not control or kill other types of nematodes already in the soil. How effective are nematodes as natural predators? When a beneficial nematode attacks an insect larvae or grub it enters the body of its host. Generally within 48 hours that host insect will either die, be physically altered or unable to produce. The Steinernema and Heterorhabditis strains of nematode carry a bacteria that generally kills its host insect in quick fashion. The beneficial nematode then moves onto another host. What sort of conditions does it require? Beneficial nematodes live in almost any soil, but they prefer moist soil

I have spent many hours reading about organic lawn care and feel like I understand all the concepts, but clearly am still having issues. I am going to submit another soil test, have not done one in about 3 years. In the meantime, I have starting working through some of the tests outlined by Kimmsr. Here is what I have found so far: 1. About 6-8 worms in a shovel full of the lawn. 2. Tilth - tough to tell. Wouldn't hold together at all when slightly damp, adding a bit of water and hit held together too well... 3. Smells earthly, no foul odor 4. Just did the soil in jar test, I will review in 24hrs. I have done this in the past and couldn't make heads or tails of the different layers, hopefully this time it is more clear. Dchall, thanks for the info on the nematodes, will be doing that next June. I will wait to see what the soil test says, but I interpret the clover as nitrogen deficiency because I go very light on the fertilizer due to cost. This year, as an example, I put down probably 20lbs of corn gluten meal in the early spring as a pre-emergent, and then again 6 weeks later, and that is about it. In the fall I usually would also apply ringer brand organic fertilizer at about the same rate. This year I have not, because I have been so busy re-seeding all of the damaged areas. Yes, I overseed every year and seem to always have dead spots after the summer. This is probably because I cannot keep up with the 1inch per week that is needed. Water is just too expensive. As a result, my lawn goes dominant, but often I have many spots that just don't come back. Then in the fall I spend many hours using a detaching rake to pull out all the dead grass and overseed. Next spring, my lawn will look really good, thick and green, but by July it starts to suffer. I had grubs in the same area last year, but didn't inspect closely as I assumed they were a small population. This year, they are Bad... Other issues I have to deal with, are mature trees on surrounding properties that limit the amount of direct sun I get. Nothing I can do about that. Probably as a result, I have areas of my lawn that always get moss, although I may be able to improve that by adding amendments. Thanks again for all the advise. I will keep you posted when I get my soil test results