I have this book. I like how it advocates the view that something does not have to be completely hardy to be worth growing. You can enjoy a plant for a few years until a really cold one comes along, or you can take simple measures to protect plants from cold temperatures on the few coldest nights - and such measures are not really so much more work than various other things people do to take care of their plants. Also, the view that some degree of winter damage can be tolerated for certain plants whose ornamental virtues are worth it. It also picks out a few plants that are much hardier than commonly supposed, especially the Southeastern native palms, and some other plants that may be tropical-looking but are actually temperate-zone plants.

However, the book seems to make a bit much of plants that will only survive mild winters, but not even average ones. Personally, while I like to grow many plants that may not survive a very cold winter, I feel that it is more worth growing plants that can survive average (and mild) winters because at least the odds of it surviving a given winter are in your favor. If you plant things relying on a mild winter your luck will run out pretty quick. Also, the book's coverage is heavily biased towards plants that are more available and more popular back east; and, in some cases, the plants are much better adapted to their hot humid summers and more continental climate. Coverage of more 'maritime climate plants' that are more appropriate for us is very limited. Many outstanding broadleaf evergreens that thrive here are excluded from the book. A couple of the color plates show incorrectly identified plants. Still, it's kind of a fun book to have.

I gave it a quick thumbing through once or twice and got the same impression that Ian has reinforced here.

Thanks Ian. My own interest is in growing some Australian plants in Seattle. When I checked the index and there was no mention of acacia, I thought I'd check here first before spending $27.00. The chapter on overwintering plants looked like it had some good info in it, not so midwest centric.

Being frugal, I don't like growing perennials as annuals because of the cost. I go the other direction and grow things for zone 6 or 7 (or colder) in preference to zone 8 (USDA). Looking up hardiness data for plants online is easy. But I do cover some plants that are more tender in winter when lower temperatures are predicted, and have had good success with preventing damage. A large plant can even be covered with a tarp and a trouble light placed inside away from the walls or in a protected spot so winds can't blow the tarp against it, and kept warm through lows. I also plant some less hardy plants next to my concrete foundation, particularly on the south and east sides, for some additional warmth and protection. One year my Strawberry trees, Arbutus unedo, were damaged or killed, and others I observed planted in a parking lot and surrounded by asphalt were completely unharmed.

I bought it when it first came out. It would be more useful for expermimenters in cooler climates than ours. Most of the palm growers around here know about pretty much everything in that book. Wasn't new to me, but I did want the book in my library. I think Dr.Franco is doing a good thing experimenting with all those palms in Ohio. Cheers, Joe