Some of the fragrant crApe myrtles: 'Apalachee' - widely reported as fragrant 'Biloxi' - at least one source reports this one as fragrant 'Muskogee' - at least one source reports this one as fragrant 'Natchez' - at least one source reports this one as fragrant 'Near East' - a few sources list this one as fragrant 'Whit I' (Raspberry Sundae) - widely reported as fragrant I think quite a few crApe myrtles have a light scent if you stick your nose up in a flower cluster, but few have a strong scent that you would smell when just walking by.

Hi..I'm late to this thread too. Am considering Native Sorbus and Toyon. We had a Toyon in San Diego..never watered it. Grew to over 15 ft. I have rocky red clay and low ph and as I am also discovering... very fast draining soil. (which all Manzanita and Toyon would require) I planted a couple Forsythia and purple Cotinus which haven't grown in over 6 years. Last year I planted a Manzanita in the same area...it's taking off like a weed. So I'm going to continue to plant xeriscape on this hillside. Since Toyon grow with Manzanita..there ya go..fast draining soil a necessity! Arborist said not enough water is why the Cotunis and Forsythia aren't getting going..I am sparse with water. Toyon seems as hard to find as a Native Mt Ash!! (been looking for a couple of years now)Damn it!! European Mt Ash are considered invasive!!

Amongst the best palms for the PNW would be the Windmill Palm, Trachycarpus fortunei, which is the palm in the pool photo. Other species of this genus to look for would include the more refined leaf form of T. wagneriana or T. takil. A smaller growing fan palm that is also perfectly hardy is the Mediterranean Fan Palm, Chamaerops humilis. There is also a lovely silver leafed version, C. humilis var cerifera. You might also be interested to try growing one of the hardier feather palms, such as Butia capitata, the Pindo Palm. Other subtropical plants that are often used in PNW gardens for a tropical effect would include the various Phormium hybrids, Cordyline australis hybrids and cultivars, and Beschorneria yuccoides. The silvery foliage of Astelias, which much resemble Phormiums in habit, are also quite hardy for Seattle, and would include the larger growing Astelia chathamica 'Silver Spear', and others such as A. nervosa 'Red Gem' or similar. Fatsia japonica is always a reliable tropical looking foliage plant. Usually not quite hardy as year round perennials in all but the mildest PNW locations, but great as temperennials, the Abutilons of all colors are great filler plants. Bergenia was already mentioned, but this is a great foliage plant that also blooms in late winter, and is fully hardy, coming from Russia. Winter deciduous subtropicals such as the various Hedychiums are also great, such as H. gardnerianum, H. flavescens, H. greenei. Cautleya spicata is also quite nice, and is quite colorful with summer blooms of red and yellow, and will even bloom in a fair amount of shade. My favorite Canna varieties for tropical flair would have to include the very tall growing C. ehemannii, which can get 10 feet tall, and has smaller rose red pendant flowers that cleanly drop off when done blooming. If you want dramatic foliage that is the equal of a Gunnera, you might also consider planting the Rice Paper Plant, Tetrapanax papyriferus, but this will probably be killed back to the roots in winter in most PNW locations. Melianthus major is another great foliage plant, but will often be killed back to the roots outside USDA zone 9a conditions. As to Acanthus, you should also look for the attractive A. spinosus, which has distinctive looking leaves. Acanthus does perfectly well in full sun in more coastal locations that don't get the baking summer heat of interior Oregon, but in its native Mediterranean habitats it will also quite willingly grow in full sun locations as well. In dry summer locations, it will go summer deciduous, and come back into growth with fall rains. In irrigated gardens, the yellowing, heat damaged foliage can simply be pruned off, and it will often push new foliage immediately if watered and fertilized, or can be allowed to wait until it cools off and starts raining again.

No flowers on either of mine yet, but the tips are definitely looking like they're thinking about doing it soon. I expect flowers in August, but everything seems to be blooming at slightly different times from normal this summer, don't you think? I had my older one, which is white (sorry, no ID info) in a woodland setting for its first 5 years or so. After it was nearly killed to the ground (it was, at that time, at least 12 feet tall) I moved it to a sunnier location. The difference was remarkable. Can you thin some trees near your Hopi? I know you love your woods, but crapes only 'tolerate' shade. Also, you might consider getting it a friend - I have 2 big crapes, the white and a red (no ID on that one either, sorry) and now I have several babies coming along in a mixed bed. I'm really excited to see what they turn out to be. Rhizo_1, thanks for that information - I had no idea these guys liked to be kept dry. Not that I water much of anything, but when I've got the hose out I normally give my crapes a drink. I'll have to stop that, I guess.