Ray: Bad variety. I grew 3 Omar's Lebanese one year, and got about 3 tomatoes from each plant. Not enough to bother with. Other varieties around it were producing fine, and they were mostly heirlooms as well. Bees don't bother with tomato blossoms, and they are not needed. Jiggle pollination from the breeze is enough for most tomatoes. The best heirloom I have grown over the past few years has been Earl's Faux, which is Earl's version of a Brandywine, but for me a much better tomato and higher producer. That would be Earl of the tomato forum. I have four of those this year, thanks to another local friend who frequents the tomato forum. Don't ask me why it is different; I just don't know. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Yesterday for the first time I saw flowers about to bloom in summer on a loquat in central SC. It is in an overgrown garden at the site of a long-gone old house. I had removed a fair amount of muscadine vine growth from it about a month or so ago and thought that might have something to do with it. Last spring it had the biggest fruit I have seen on loquats in this city of many loquat trees, equaled only by my grafted "Big Jim."

Hello Jon. Yes it was my understanding that Chris used a systemic spray. It does sound like it is possible to parthenocarpic induce fruit set in sterile fruit with out natural pollen. We likely tried something that was available at his nursery like tomato set spray or a sales person from one of his vendors recommended a spray. Here is some information. When I have time I will give this a try? Best http://www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org/forums/showthread.php?p=21254 Tomato Fruit Set Spray User Name Remember Me? Password Register FAQ Links DB Calendar Today's Posts Search HortBoard If you are unsure about where to post your question, post it here in the Hortboard forum. New to gardening questions welcome! Search Forums Show Threads Show Posts Advanced Search Go to Page... Thread Tools #1 July 1st, 2005 Megami Generous Contributor (100+ posts) Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 166 Tomato Fruit Set Spray -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What is tomato fruit set spray and how/why does it work? Thanks! Megami View Public Profile Visit Megami's homepage! Find all posts by Megami #2 July 13th, 2005 Unregistered Posts: n/a Re: Tomato Fruit Set Spray -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The active ingredient is the man-made auxin (hormone) 4-Chlorophenoxyacetic acid (4-CPA) that is well known to promote fruit set commercially. Bio101--Why it works: "...Fertilization within the ovules stimulates the ovary enclosing them to begin growing into a fruit. Within a few days the ovary begins to swell. This is called the fruit set. Fruit development is under the influence of the plant hormones auxin and gibberellin. Pollen is one of the richest natural sources of auxin, so it is thought that the initial stimulus to fruit growth comes simply from the auxin to which the pistil is exposed as a result of pollination. Applying the hormone auxin or gibberellin to the ovaries of flowers can induce a fruit to develop without pollination or fertilization. This is called a parthenocarpic fruit and is, of course, seedless." http://www.crfg.org/tidbits/gibberellic.html Gibberellic Acid for Fruit Set and Seed Germination John M. Riley The following information is taken from a article by John M. Riley that appeared in the 1987 CRFG Journal (vol. 19, pp. 10-12). See the back issue information for price and ordering information. The Germination Process The first stage of germination consists of ingesting water and an awakening or activation of the germ plasma. Protein components of the cells that were formed as the seed developed, became inactive as it matured. After an uptake of water, the system is reactivated and protein synthesis resumes. Enzymes and hormones appear and begin to digest reserve substances in the storage tissues and to translocate the digested substances in the storage tissues to the growing points of the embryo. The sequence of the metabolic pattern than occurs during germination involves the activation of specific enzymes at the proper time and regulation of their activity. Control is exercised by four classes of plant hormones: inhibitors such as abscissic acid which block germination; auxins which control root formation and growth; the gibberellins which regulate protein synthesis and stem elongation; and cytokinins that control organ differentiation. Ethylene is also believed to have a control function in some plants. Sometimes the last three controls are used together to crash through dormancy in germinating difficult seed. Gibberellic Acid Gibberellic acid (actually a group of related substances called gibberellins) was discovered as a metabolic byproduct of the fungus Gibberella fujikuroi, which causes the stems of growing rice to elongate so rapidly the plant collapsed. Synthetic forms of gibberellic acid are available commercially. Gibberellic acid (GA) is a very potent hormone whose natural occurrence in plants controls their development. Since GA regulates growth, applications of very low concentrations can have a profound effect. Timing is critical: too much GA may have an opposite effect from that desired; too little may require the plant to be repeatedly treated to sustain desired levels of GA. Effects of Gibberellic Acid Overcoming dormancy. Treatment with high concentrations of GA is effective in overcoming dormancy and causing rapid germination of seed. Concentrations of about 2 ppm can cause tubers to sprout earlier. Premature flowering. If a plant is sufficiently developed, premature flowering may be induced by direct application of GA to young plants. This action is not sustained and treatment may have to be repeated. Formation of male flowers is generally promoted by concentrations of 10 to 200 ppm., female flowers by concentrations of 200 to 300 ppm. Concentrations of more than 600 ppm markedly suppresses initiation of both male and female flowers. Increased fruit set. When there is difficulty with fruit set because of incomplete pollination, GA may be effectively used to increase fruit set. The resulting fruit maybe partially or entirely seedless. GA has increased the total yield in greenhouse tomato crops both as a result of increased fruit set and more rapid growth of the fruit. Hybridizing. Pollination within self-incompatible clones and between closely related species may some times be forced by the application of GA and cytokinin to the blooms at the time of hand pollination. Increased growth. GA applied near the terminal bud of trees may increase the rate of growth by stimulating more or less constant growth during the season. In a Department of Agriculture experiment, the GA was applied as a 1% paste in a band around the terminal bud of trees. Treatment was repeated three times during the summer. Walnut tee growth was 8.5 ft. for treated trees, 1.5 ft. for untreated trees. Frost protection. Spraying fruit trees at full-blossom or when the blossoms begin to wither can offset the detrimental effects of frost. Root formation. GA inhibits the formation of roots in cuttings. Recipes Although GA is not listed as a "poison", the following precautions should be observed: Flush with water any GA that may get into the eye. Avoid skin contact if possible. If skin contact is suspected, wash with soap and water. Do not re-enter an area after spraying until the GA spray is fully dry. Avoid ingestion of GA. The powder may be dissolved as specified below to give the desired concentration. Concentration parts/million GA mg Water ml (cup) Purpose 50 125 2400 (10 1/2) Early flowering 200 125 600 (2 1/2) Early flowering 800 125 160 (2/3) Blossom set 2000 125 60 (1/4) Seed germination 1% paste 125 5 ml (1 tsp.) lanolin Growth promoter -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Copyright 1987,1997, California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc. Questions or comments? Contact us. http://www.super-grow.biz/GibberellicAcid.jsp#combine

It's 55, not 65. Zone 6b plants can normally go out in mid-late April but even with the crazy weather this year they should be able to go out this coming week given the forecast. Personally I would remove them before you transplant them outside. That puts the plant back in to vegetative growth and root development mode which should be the focus right now. But you can leave them if you wish. The odds are the plant will kill them off in some fashion anyway due to all the transplant stress. Dave