skip to main content

Hosta seed stratification and sowing

17 years ago

I've harvested my Venusta seeds and believe they need to be stratified before sowing. What is the procedure for this and when can I sow them afterwards?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (17)

njpeter
17 years ago
No stratification needed. I usually start my hosta seeds in November (under lights in the basement).

Peter
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
17 years ago
agree ... stick in moist potting soil .. ... nothing else necessary ...

a little bottom heat.. top of the fridge may help, but not necessary ....

some people put them in black bags.. to retain moisture.. so light isn't even needed ...

or throw them on the driveway .. and they will sprout in the spring in the cracks.. they are hosta...

ken
Related Discussions
WANTED: seeds requiring prechill/stratification
Q
Comments (8)
Perhaps I'm simply fortunate to live in a zone where winter sowing is ideal but so far I've successfully grown apple trees, pear trees, ornamental dogwood trees + shrubs and a long list of perennials via winter sowing. The trees are as tall as I am after only 3 years. Winter sown shrubs & perennials all bloomed this year. In nature, I'm sure they would be subject to freezes? You don't identify your location so it's somewhat challenging to offer advice for cold stratification. The Clothier's database is reliable for most purposes and may be helpful to you. Knowing the botanical names will help you navigate the website. As the above posters have advised you, the refrigerator isn't the best alternative to what's outside your door so long as the external temperature allows a sufficient cold spell to break a seed's germination needs. FYI - winter sowing provides the closest approximation to a natural pre-chill/stratification plus it protects the seeds from wind, rain & predators, allowing the seeds an environment in which they have a significantly higher chance of germinating than they might otherwise enjoy. Best of luck to you!! Here is a link that might be useful: Tom Clothier database
...See More
? when to sow seeds requiring stratification
Q
Comments (4)
I've just started winter sowing after reading this great forum and don't know if it's late or not, considering the bizarre weather we're having, but I've been bitten by the ws bug and had to give it a try! Today I put out: Alchemilla "Irish Silk" Aquilegia "Ruby Port", "Tower Lt. Blue" and "Tower White" Aurunus dioicus Bergenia "Winter-Flowering Hybrids" Catananche caerulea Eragrostis spectabilis (Purple Love Grass) Eryngium "White Glitter" Heurchera "Firefly" Hypericum androsaemum Moluccella Mondarda "Lambada" Panicum violaceum Papaver nudicaule "Flamenco" Patrinia Penstemon "Esprit" Pycnanthemum Rudbeckia triloba "Prairie Glow" Solidago "Golden Baby" Thalictrum aquilegifolium I would never have imagined I could do all of that and all the ones yet to be done if you all hadn't been so generous and encouraging with your posts. Keep up the good work!
...See More
Novice attempting seed stratification, any advice?
Q
Comments (4)
First off, I tried the coffee filters and they disintegrated really quickly so I'm back to a good sturdy paper towel. Second, don't worry about the mold. That doesn't mean they won't germinate. There are some studies that show that the mold may even aid in germination. So don't throw them away. Keep checking them! Don't be afraid to really scrub those seeds! You want to get all of the hip material off of them and that's tough. But so are the seeds so you don't need to be gentle about it. I SCRUB mine against the sides of a fine mesh sieve. It's thought that the hip material has some kind of enzyme in it that inhibits germination so get it all off. Mine go into the fridge too but I start to check them at about 2 to 3 weeks because they will start germinating in the fridge. If you wait 2 months you'll lose some of them because that's too long for them to go. After that I check them once a week until I stop seeing germinations. I also rotate the seeds in and out of the fridge a week at a time and sometimes that will jump start germination. The germinated seeds go into starter trays filled with seed starting soil and under lights. When they get 2 sets of real leaves I pot them up into cups and if it's warm out they go outside. If not they stay under the lights until it is warm enough outside but I get them outside as soon as possible. Roses hate the conditions inside most homes. If it's hot outside put them in morning sun only or in a place that gets dappled shade most of the day. Do not let them dry out completely. Keep them moist but not soggy and they should do fine for you.
...See More
For experts in cold-stratification -- native seeds.
Q
Comments (8)
I do check with Clothier's data on seed germination, it is helpful. A method that I came up with myself and use for germinating seed of prairie wiildflowers and grasses is to cover the seed once it is sown with a coarser perlite rather than a peat based germ mix which seems to smother the seed. This method is used for seed that requires a covering, some seeds need to remain uncovered and exposed to light for germination. I found that Sporobolus heterolepis (Prairie Dropseed) doesn't germinate at all when lightly covered with a peat based media - I got a few to germ that were left uncovered but I get high germ when the seed is lightly and evenly covered with perlite after it is sown. This tells me that prairie species need more gas exchange or exposure to the air while at the same time being covered so the seed is protected and does not dry out. I wouldn't worry too much about your seed germinating early in the fridge, I have Dictamnus albus and eryngium sprouting now in the seed trays that are in my refrigerator - the mice kept getting them in my garage - the cold temps will keep them from growing much and they will be taken out of the fridge in late March or early April to go out into a cold greenhouse to continue growing. Keep in mind that seed that requires stratification for germination can not be hurried along with warm temps! We aren't growing marigolds or petunias here. If you see no activity after you might expect to see signs of life, keep the seed colder longer rather than warming them up - most seeds will start to sprout while still chilled and germ best while at cool temperatures. Again, good luck! I wanted to add that some varieties that require stratification do only start to 'wake up' and grow once the temps warm up, like morz8 said - but not too warm - temps in the low 60's are better than say mid 70 or 80 degrees. Try to avoid quick extremes and no need for additives like wood ash or innoculants for germination - I've never used GA-3 myself and don't really see a need for it. There is no secret incantation or method that will make this process go much faster, it is one of those things that takes time. 'Tricky' things - violet species for example - germinate for me better when they are placed in a coldframe outside because the rain and snow are washing out the germination inhibitors that keep the seed from growing at the wrong time. That is my educated guess. I remember that when I grew Callirhoe involucrata from seed the germination was very erratic, seedlings slowly germinating in an outdoor seed bed for more than three years! This post was edited by jebfarm on Sun, Dec 28, 14 at 13:58
...See More
ademink
17 years ago
ken, do you do sterile potting soil or just potting soil?
highjack
17 years ago
I'm not Ken but it should be sterile (which means peat), not potting soil. I prefer coir/perlite mixed 50/50 to eliminate fungus gnats and damp off. If you use the sterile, it should also be cut 50/50 with perlite to keep the mix light and airy with good drainage to eliminate damp off.

Sterile does not mean sterilized - it means there is no "dirt/soil" in the mix. You can sterlize the peat based mix by baking, microwaving or using boiling water to eliminate the fungus gnat larvae. Trust me, the larvae is in it when you purchase it.
ademink
17 years ago
This is definitely helpful - thanks. I never understood that sterile doesn't mean sterilized! I've had a heck of a time finding sterilized soil so it looks like I should mix my own and do the boiling water method. How do you drain it? Or do you just put in the water and let it evaporate eventually.....? Lastly, where do you get coir/perlite? Lowe's or somewhere?
highjack
17 years ago
I have have read you put the mix in a colander container, place the container in something to hold the boiling water and remove the colander after the water cools.

After my first year of fungus gnats, I switched to coir which you can find at hydroponics stores. Perlite can also be purchased there or at big box stores. Coir is cheap to purchase on line but perlite becomes expensive because the shipping is astronomical. Coir is purchased in the form of a brick which has to be hydrated. When expanded, it also must be rinsed a couple of times to remove excess salt.

With the coir mix, damp off is history and fungus gnats are nonexsistent.
ademink
17 years ago
Thank you so much! I'm going to buy some coir online if the hydroponics store here in town is expensive. I appreciate the info!
playinmud
17 years ago
Please pardon my ignorance, but what is "coir"?
jspece
17 years ago
"Sterile does not mean sterilized - it means there is no "dirt/soil" in the mix."

I have to disagree..."sterile" means just that...sterile of living organisms.

Mix free of real soil/dirt is "soil-less" medium...which is what you want to start seeds.

You won't find sterile potting soil, but you can find sterile soil-less seed starting mix. Whether it is in fact sterile is debatable.

I use the microwave to sterilize my seedling mix. It's fast and easy...no mess.
ademink
17 years ago
so do you use the same mix, josh? (coir and perlite) or do you actually purchase sterile soil-less seed starting mix? i checked nurseries and "normal" stores and can't find sterile anything.
jspece
17 years ago
I've never used coir, but some day it will probably replace peat in soil-less mixes. I use either a mix specific for starting seeds or else just a standard soil-less mix...whatever I happen to have on hand. Whether the package says "sterile" or not, I usually microwave anyway.
hostarox
17 years ago
And, I use it as I buy it! The soil-less stuff. Never have nuked it. I have never had fungus knats or whatever. I kill way more seedlings here myself by culling than mother nature ever will.
micke
17 years ago
what about using peat pellets? are they okay to use?
greygardener
17 years ago
I've used peat pellets for other seeds, never hostas. They didn't yield good results. The soil-less seed starting mix is easy for me to find at gardening stores, and it works well. I've been meaning to try the coir, just haven't gotten around to ordering it.
maryann_____chgo
17 years ago
I use all recycled container mix, so haven't purchased any in years. Pouring boiling water thru it sterilizes it quick and easy, no gnats, weeds, or damping off. Baking or nuking the seedling medium is too smelly for me.
donrawson
17 years ago
Here is a link that may be helpful. Don

http://www.pwk.resteddoginn.ca/hosta_seed.php
hosta_freak
17 years ago
If you don't mind waiting,I've had good results just putting seeds in a pot in the spring,and growing them just as nature intended. I have many Cinnamon Sticks seedlings from just that method. They are now planted in my garden,and even though they were OP,they look very much like the parent plant. HF

Related Stories

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Spotted Beebalm (Monarda punctata)

By Curtis Adams

Looking for unusual, long-lasting blooms, low maintenance and deer resistance? Try this self-sowing perennial

LANDSCAPE DESIGN Exuberant Self-Seeders for Gorgeous, Easy-Care Gardens

By Donald Pell - Gardens

Keep weeds down, color high and maintenance low with beautful plants that sow themselves

FALL GARDENING Be Your Own Wildflower Nursery

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Gather seeds from your garden in fall, and you'll have a selection of plants for next year — without spending a dime

GARDENING FOR BUTTERFLIES Great Design Plant: Virginia Mountain Mint

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Watch a world of insects dine on this Midwest native, an easy bloomer that washes the garden (and your skin) in scents of cool mint

GARDENING GUIDES Great Lakes Gardener's August Checklist

By Barbara Pintozzi

Pick the peppers and drink in the scent of lilies this month, while you mull over a mowing strip to make fall gardening easier

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Pseudognaphalium Obtusifolium, or Rabbit Tobacco

By Curtis Adams

This late-blooming native annual, also known as sweet everlasting, adds spontaneity to landscapes in the eastern United States

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Little Bluestem Goes Above and Beyond

By Pollination Press LLC

It thrives in poor soil and provides food and shelter for wildlife. Plus, Schizachyrium scoparium is just a darn pretty native grass

EDIBLE GARDENS How to Grow Your Own Sweet Summer Crops

By Marianne Lipanovich

This guide will help any gardener get started on growing the freshest warm-season veggies and berries for summer

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Ratibida Columnifera

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

A shortgrass prairie native wildflower fit for pollinators and dry trouble spots offers benefits all year long

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Ratibida Pinnata Flutters in the Breeze

By Pollination Press LLC

This bright coneflower brings splashes of yellow to eastern U.S. prairie gardens and perennial borders

Sponsored

More Discussions

Frost warning tonight

15

I have my first Scapes!

6

Help needed please !!

12

Reddy or Not this Spring

19

HVX, yes? Confirmation, please :)

2