Thane, I can't think how I missed that thread when I searched. Most helpful. Eric -- I did read about the 'Pat Ballard' cultivar. The 'James Roof' I saw in the nursery had a wonderful leaf color and I read that it is somewhat darker than 'Pat Ballard,' but also that it is a bit less hardy. You two are so enthusiastic, I'm almost in the car on my way to the nursery! Thank you for the endorsement. Maro

>The 'Issaquahensis' cultivar is named for the place it originated which is IssaquahMy above comment "I've been to the Ballard garden and seen a hybrid garrya there. It was either the original or a seedling from it. As I recall it had frozen down in 1990" refers to this plant. It is not a cultivar of G. elliptica called 'Issaquahensis' but rather a hybrid grex G. x issaquahensis (G. elliptica x G. fremontii) consisting of more than one selection, including 'Glasnevin Wine' and 'Pat Ballard'. The 2002 Hillier manual gives this version: "First raised in Seattle in about 1957, the cross later occurred accidentally in the garden of Mrs Pat Ballard of Issaquah, Washington in 1960" The "original" I referred to above would likely have been the 'Pat Ballard' cultivar. 'Glasnevin Wine' was raised in Ireland.

Hello Forum member's I've Noticed my VCR Leaf Start To Curl & Black Spots Under The Leafs , What is the proper treatment for this ? Should I just re-potted ? , I use Liquid Copper for controlling Anthracnose On My Mango Trees don't know if Liquid copper is too strong for my Plumeria . I appreciate any help.. Ed

Well, I created my batch of Al's 5-1-1 and did the root pruning. The soil that was in the pot to begin with seemed to be made of at least 50% pearlite. It did drain ok, but held the water too long I think. I'm looking forward to the 5-1-1 and using a tell to really know what's going on with my plant. (root ball after completely removing soil) I had just enough of the 5-1-1 for the large pot that my FLF is in, but my poor FLF suffered quite the leaf loss as I had to turn him several times to get the dirt off the root ball. Roots were thick and I'm not sure if they looked good or not, but I followed directions in Al's root pruning discussions as best I could and cut off a bunch of the thick big roots, and pruned probably 1/3-1/2 of them. Then planted in the 5-1-1 and watered. I also put the pot on blocks inside the decorative planter, so that it will never be sitting in the runoff again! That combined with using a tell should fix the problems I was having. (poor guy looks like he got mugged) I have the Foliage Pro 9-3-6 to apply in a few weeks, maybe after the 2nd or 3rd watering. My wife loves the little jug it came in. It's tiny. I now need to make a new batch of 5-1-1. (This is right after watering the first time in the 5-1-1) Al, I have a few questions for you. What should I expect over the next month? Is my tree going to start dropping leaves? (maybe I should say "Trees" as there are 5 of them in the same planter.) I think it wouldn't be too much of a stretch for them to shed some as the root system has just been hacked up a bit. But it's nice to hear from the experts. Attached are pictures of missing leaves at the top of stalks. They broke off during the root cleaning/pruning. Will new growth occur there at the top? or do I need to cut it back to just above the closest attached leaf? (tops of stalks that had leaves break off in the process) How do I force back budding into areas that lost leaves and now look as if they have holes? If this is a process, when is the best time to start it, and what should I expect? (empty holes on stalks that have lost leaves/broke off during the process) Again as always, Thank you anyone for your help and advice. I feel like I've taken a few horticulture classes with all the reading I've been doing on these forums, and especially thank you Al (tapla) for your wisdom and your sharing on these forums. It is truly a blessing to find someone who is so knowledgeable and willing to share that knowledge with complete strangers. Thanks again, Mike