Hi Violetta and welcome! There's definitely no "stupid questions" . As they say - the only stupid question is the one not asked!! LOL To try to answer some from my experience: 1.) Mulch is usually used as a soil cover to do a number of things including to help the soil retain moisture, and in cases of organic mulch, to eventually break down and add to the soil. Some mulches like gravel can often add minerals to the soil. For containers, I have found that it helps tf the clematis. Some will even plant a ground-cover type plant around a clematis base to do the same. Basically, the clematis likes moist roots (but not soggy as that may rot it out) when it is in the sun. 2.) o keep the soil surface from drying out so fast. And yes, it will help "shade" the roots of the clematis. Some will even plant a ground-cover type plant around a clematis base to do the same. Basically, the clematis likes moist roots (but not soggy as that may rot it out) when it is in the sun and they definitely prefer sun to get alot of bloom. 2.) Regarding containers appearance - I expect it is more "in the eye of the beholder". I don't consider my plain plastic containers as "ugly" (unless they are really stained or scratched up or split). The containers are just that - containers that hopefully have a beautiful plant in them. There are many who really like beautiful terracotta or ceramic containers but for me - these are often heavy and can crack after awhile due to expansion and contraction during winter weather. So as you surmise, a plastic pot with the plant can be placed inside the decorative pot to get the best of both worlds. 3.) With respect to petunias and bloom - sometimes they will pf the clematis. Some will even plant a ground-cover type plant around a clematis base to do the same. Basically, the clematis likes moist roots (but not soggy as that may rot it out) when it is in the sun. 2.) ause while going through a vegetative cycle before blooming again. You could consider pinching off the growing tips to encourage side-branches that will eventually give you double the blooms. Giving them a high-phosphorous fertilizer boost may also help. 4.) There is nothing stopping you from growing a cherry tree - just make sure that you put it in as large a container as you can drag out there 20" or greater and look for one that is on dwarf stock (then you can summer prune to keep it smaller). There are some vines like moonflower (Ipomoea alba) that would love your S-SW exposure and would cover your window in no time (plus would give you large white blooms in the evenings). The moonflower vine's cousins - morning glories - are also another that you could try. Some climbing roses (in a large container) could be positioned against the window and would also handle that exposure and can diffuse the sun coming through the window. Honeysuckles are a nice viney/shrub that could fit the bill too. Additionally, once your little clematis has grown up, that could be trained to grow on a trellis in front of the window as could vines like passifloras, which are fast growers. Your container plantings are really pretty, so don't bemoan them!!! It has taken many of us years to get where we can't even barely walk out on our balconies anymore (LOL) so don't be afraid to take your time and get hooked on container gardening!

(1) When I replant the tomatoes, how deep should I plant? Since I didn't prep the underlying clay, should I dig that out and add something to it (compost, e.g.,) before replanting the tomatoes? Plant them so most all of any exposed stem is buried. Either deep holes or trench them in. More digging sure can't hurt but it would be easier to just add more compost and mix it in to the top so you are working with a good 8-10" of new. Let the worms do the work of turning it in. (2) I've got a 2' fence flush against the bed but something is getting in and eating the strawberries. There's no obvious tracks in the soil, could it just be bugs? As mention - slugs snails and many other possibilities. Move them to a container for the good of all issues. (3) Do I need to move the strawberries? There's 3 plants, I'm told the yield will be low the first year, I'm considering moving them to a trough this year and then to their own bed next year. 3 plants won't give you much yield. Not even a small handful of berries. Honestly not worth planting so few plants. Put them in a pot and plan to plant many more next year in a larger container. (4) The row of scallions and row of carrots have sprouted, I planted densely planning to thin - when should I thin and by how much at first? Growing up we didn't thin until we could at least discern which plants were doing better. I'm nowhere near that point but since I planted so densely I'd want to make sure I thin on time Since this is such a small bed and sounds like it is heavily over-planted already if you want any carrots at all you will have to thin aggressively. Begin thinning as soon as the seedlings are large enough to ID individual plants - usually 3/4-1" tall. Do a follow up thinning when they are 2-3" tall and again until they are approx. 3" apart. (5) I'm pretty sure this soil mix is only good for about 60-90 days and I'm not sure what I need to do then. Dig it out and replace it? Add something to it? Not at all, you just keep mixing in more compost and nutrient supplements. You will not be able to count on this new soil for sufficient nutrients without you adding supplements. There is no active soil micro-herd yet to convert the compost to nutrient forms. (6) Assuming our garden is successful (so far, so good, I've maintained it minimally) we plan to expand next year. What should I do with the soil this summer/fall, if anything? Raised beds again is what we'd prefer. Just build more of the same or my personal preference is 3' wide and long as you have room for. It's a more efficient use of space and provides easier access. 2x a year additions of lots of fresh quality compost. If you can get some well-aged manure for adding in the fall - great. otherwise buy several bags of composted manure now while the garden centers have them and add them in the fall. Good luck with your garden. Dave

I, too, plant even more than you--- 12 plants in a 4 x 6 bed. That's only 2 sq feet per plant, but it works. It works because my soil is dug very deeply (18") It is heavily composted, and I am religious about tying them up in a basket weave pattern of support (google it). Yes, it is a jungle by the end of the season, but I can reach everything, and my tomatoes are never sunscalded because there is more than enough shade from all the leaves!! Gardening is about experimenting with what works for you! You have had advice from both sides of the aisle on this one, so plant them, and then you will know how comfortable you are doing the same thing next year!!

I'm a little late to the party, but I'll throw in my 2 cents: If you have great soil and take great care of them, you could have one huge and extremely productive plant, or you could have two nice and productive plants, or you could do 4 plants and probably get a little production from each of them. I have put 4 into spaces that sized and often I get one slow plant that doesn't do much, a couple that give me fair production and maybe one that does well. If you just want to get a variety of fruit and total yield is not so important, 4 plants might do it for you but you might be disappointed in the total crop. I would personally do 2 in that space or maybe three if they are not types that make huge plants, or just one if you want huge fruit or a lot of one variety. If I water and mulch well, I usually can get more out of a space than you are suppose to, but when I don't do a good job with water and mulch, I often get a lot less than good growers would.