Personally, I would move those junipers and incorporate them into the border. They are going to eventually get way too wide and take up too much of your lawn. If you are trying to create an entryway feel into that area then consider an arbor with some bushes planted on either side of it that connect to the fence bed and a planting bed along the house respectively. I would create a curve to the bed line that is no narrower than 3 feet at the absolute smallest part but I would make it much wider at the ends (front bed incorporating that tree and in the back I would make a larger bed in the corner. Play with the garden hose and lay it on the grass to get some ideas. (think serpentine) I would plant a tree in the back corner, I think you have more room then you realize. Keep lower limbs trimmed up as your tree grows so you get a nice canopy but can still move under it. I think a redbud or flowering cherry/plum would all work size wise. I would also plant a small tree off the corner of the patio, but you didn't ask about that. What is the tree up front near the fence? I also agree with dibbit about not doing the hedge row of all the same. A mixed shrub border would be nice and could give you color all year. Depending on size I would do either 1 or 3 of each as I like odd numbers. If you do three I would do them in a triangle formation rather than a row plastered against the fence. Here are some suggestions-- Knock out roses, My favorite is still the original one. Forsythia (these get rather big so only do one unless you are getting a dwarf variety, and plant it where you can let it get about 10' wide as these look best when allowed to weep) In spring my huge ball of sunshine is a beacon of spring, but then it becomes a huge green bush the rest of the summer so plant some pretty perennials in front of it. (homestead purple verbena is nice) Wiegelia (there are variegated varieties as well as dark leaved choices all with beautiful blooms) Viburnum, This is a subject onto itself, research your favorite varieties on this forum some are evergreen, but most are not. The flowers vary greatly as do berries etc. Perhaps a Little Gem Magnolia in the back corner? Indian Hawthorne is an old stand by, it is ever green and can look nice, but will never get as tall as your fence. Why not plant something to grow on the fence or on a trellis against the fence such as a clematis or Amethyst Falls Wisteria, then plant some smaller evergreens in front of it such as Helleri Holly or the Indian Hawthorne? Japanese Cleyera is another evergreen possibility August Beauty Gardenias, or some of the smaller varieties such as 'radicans' would be nice in front of whatever tree you choose to plant. If part of the border will not get too much afternoon sun then I would definitely include some Hydrangeas, some repeat bloomers such as Endless Summer or Penny Mac would be show stoppers. And what southern order would be complete without some azaleas? Again avoid afternoon sun. There are so many choices but I would work on a bed line first and start preparing the site while you decide. Look up Lasagna gardening and start prepping the site with newspaper and soil amendments so you don't have to dig up all that sod. You can spray it with round up first if you want, but it is not necessary if you put down newspaper thick enough under your amendments. the amazing thing I find is that people are often afraid to plant to much as they think it will make their yard look smaller, but it will actually do the opposite, so unless you need a certain amount of grass to have enough room for the kids playing football or something, I would take out quite a bit of that lawn. Here is a link that may be helpful. Have fun! Post pictures of whatever you choose to do. Here is a link that might be useful: creating a shrub border

Oakleaf hydrangea is a summer blooming shrub. This is a plant that blooms on new wood, so low winter temps (if not deathly to the entire plant) should have next to no effect on summer flowering on new shoots. Reveal the research that claims that there won't be flowers after cold damage to stems. Take the example of the Morton Arboretum (Lisle, IL), where winter lows fall into the -20s F regularly, and they have June/July flowers every summer with Hydrangea quercifolia. Check their website to see which clones they are having success with, and try them. Better, use the clones that Johnson's Nursery from the Milwaukee suburbs are selling. Those should provide ironclad performance for WI conditions. I'm always amazed when gardeners will reject plants that have some degree of performance in/near their zone, but just aren't real common and because they aren't seen around like forsythia or burning bush. On the other hand, they'll be the first to take the hothouse rose and fry it at first winter's chill simply because "no one else has it." Self-limiting is it's own reward...or sentence.

twisted- search some old threads for daphne and you'll see you're not alone. they are picky but worth it. now that you have this one happy, i'd highly recommend working on getting another one going in a another spot, because typically they'll last about 5-8 years before they very suddenly succumb to the fungus that's endemic here. daylily- congrats, but you've been warned! couple yrs ago i was bragging on mine living 8 years and i lost it the very next year. i've only seen or heard of 3 or 4 around here that have made it past around that amount of time living. by succession planting you always have one to enjoy. once you have success with one, you'll be addicted and always want them. some folks are having good luck keeping them in insulated containers- which is what i think i'm going to do the next time i find one on sale. big boxes mark them down at the end of winter when the general public doesn't know what they are and so only buy them while blooming. makes for good buys for those with sharp eyes! every single, solitary time i see a coral bark maple i lust after them. i am going to HAVE to get one soon. they are sooo pretty. only question is where to squeeze it in where i can ogle it all winter long. :)

I think that you will find a lot of varietals that will work in that space, but you'll want to also plan on watering requirements. You don't want thyme on the bottom where it stays too wet. But mint or parsley would be happier with more water. Maybe half for the arid types and half that you water more often? Most thymes work in that amount of space. They would probably even work sideways, though you would have to be very careful with the drainage, since they need very well drained. I think a small rosemary would also work, similar in drainage to thyme, and in 5b like me, it's really tough to overwinter rosemary, so it could just grow for the season, then pull and dry it or keep potted indoors for the winter. But, it does depend on how rosemary grows for your location--here in CO, it does not grow fast at all in our conditions. Maybe one of the draping, creeping rosemary types would be really fun to try. Mints, I would check which types. My fav is apple mint which does get really big and probably wouldn't work as well. But my chocolate mints have so far stayed a lot more compact. I'm sure the bricks will contain them to a point, but they will go through a lot of water in that small of space. The runners will definitely go down and out the bottom if they can, so maybe some plastic or weed block on the underside of those sections could help. Basils you'll want to check the varieties. The large leaf types probably need more space, but something like a fino verde or marseilles could probably work. I'm not sure about tarragon--it might if you keep it well pruned. I have never tried, but maybe mexican tarragon may be a smaller plant, since it's really a marigold. You didn't mention chives--those would do well in that space. Parsley or cilantro would also probably do fine, just pick several different bricks and sow one at a time weekly, so you get a little ready each time. I would also consider some edible flowers like french marigolds or nasturtiums, and pansies/violas in cool season for some color pop. Also, sorrel, summer savory, and purslane. Some of the lettuces could work as well. My thought is that lavender and sage will require more room. Maybe block of a larger space with the small spots on the edge for a couple of the larger ones. I really don't know about oregano--hopefully someone else can give you a hint on that one. But most, it doesn't hurt to try!