The procedure you used for setting the main metering screw (adjustable main jet= screw needle on bottom of carb bowl) was acceptable. Were it not for the surging, the following procedure would work. (1)Lightly bottom the main metering screw to its seat (turn CW). (2)Next, turn the screw CCW 1.5 turns. (3)Start engine and run til it reaches operating temperature. (4)Holding throttle in wide open position (max no load RPM), continue turning the Main metering screw CCW until the engine just begins to lose RPM, or you see black smoke in the exhaust (or both). (5)Now, begin turning the screw CW and carefully count the number of turns you make as you go. When the engine RPM once again begins to drop, stop turning (you can stop the engine too). (6)Now, turn the screw CCW exactly half the number of turns you counted. This is the "median adjustment point" for fuel volume. The fuel metering must now be "fine tuned" to the working conditions (loaded operation) by actually putting the engine to work and then reading the color of the spark plug afterward. This is done by running the engine under normal conditions (mowing, in this case) for at least 10 minutes and then cutting stopping the engine and removing the plug for a color reading. If the plug color is somewhat white or light gray, turn the main metering screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn CCW (more fuel) and run the engine for 10 more minutes under working conditions and then read the plug again. The optimum color to attain is in the light brown to tan range. Finding gas "puddled" in the air filter housing might mean the intake valve is leaking some compression past it. I don't believe you can be certain the float level is correct based simply on looking at the ground under the carb after it has sat inert for a while. Unless the carb has an atmospheric vent to the outside, any overflow from the bowl will drain into the cylinder (but you have not stated seeing any of the typical signs of that either). Looking at your pics, there are 2 link holes in the throttle shaft bellcrank where the link is now connected (the link is in one hole). Are these 2 holes the same diameter? or is one bigger? Any chance you might have put the link back into the wrong hole? In the other pic, I see the throttle shaft has a return spring around the shaft. Check that this spring is actually functioning and not broken (with the remnants of the spring still in place). See both edited pics below. Have you checked the engine valves for proper adjustment?

We are getting off the topic, but I remember the lush yard of my childhood w/ all the clover and watching the honeybees, and the exciting days when we would take the honey out of the hives... I planted clover and I wish all the weedy grass would go away! (No neighbors are going to care here as our lots are set in the middle of woods, and we are out in the country.) My clover has had a tough time (doesn't like sand?), but there is one low-growing weed that I am encouraging as it does not need to be mowed. No mowing is my goal. As for my clems (many of which you all enabled!), they are doing fairly well. I was most impressed w/ Arabella- the best bloomer! I have mostly watered from my rain barrels this summer and it is not very satisfactory because the sand soaks up the moisture so fast (great for watering pots and small areas though). I too have to figure out where to plant the ones I stuck in pots in the spring. Most are going into the rose garden (if the roses don't make it maybe the clems will). I have planted several to climb up my deck railings. I know there is a lot of controversy about adding soil amendments, but I am with the other readers who see the fence as a prime planting ground. Maybe someone who knows more about amendments could help out? I wish you the best of luck in finding them a good place, and would appreciate it if you will wish me luck as well. Thanks, Brandy

You’ll want/need to buy stainless steel screws. There should be short ones already in the door that you can take out and match, but get longer. For my dishwasher, the install involved taking these shorter screws out that were in place in the naked door and switching them to longer ones that then attached to panel to the naked door. At the bottom of the naked door there were spots for little clips that you lock in first before you screw in the screws. Without the clips you can probably just use more screws, but it might be trickier to get the door perfectly straight. There are quite a few short screws in the door to allow different door combos, for example a single door panel or a drawer front + shorter door combo, so you can use several sets of screws holes to attach your door. As for your door thickness, I think it’s more a question of weight than thickness. I can’t see why the thickness would be a problem. But the weight of your thick panel might create challenges. A new panel ready DW generally comes with door spring tension set for the average weight of a custom panel. I’d say that’s a 3/4”-1” thick solid wood door. (This means the naked door is very hard to open with no panel attached). Your thicker door may be notably heavy compared to what they’re expecting. So you may need to adjust the spring tension, or your door will crash open as you pull it down. My vague recollection from the instructions was that there’s a way to adjust this tension, but I’m not sure, as I didn’t have to adjust mine. But it might be worth researching to confirm before you commit to 1.5” thickness… or maybe you’re better off going with just drawer fronts attached to a frame instead of a solid plywood layer to keep the weight down. Good luck!

If you don't want to set up an account, you can use TinyPic (a Photobucket service). This is the easiest way I know - directions were posted by mightyanvil as follows: "RE: Exterior options. (Follow-Up #3) posted by: mightyanvil on 07.31.2006 at 10:05 am in Building a Home Forum To post a photo: go to http://tinypic.com (it's free and no sign up is required) select "browse" and go find your jpg, png, gif, or tif photo file and select it (it will be automatically downsized to 250K) select the "upload image" button copy the contents of the "HTML" window and paste it into the text part of your message. Now preview you message. If you can see the photo, submit the message If you are unsure of yourself try all of this first at the "test forum" which is linked at the bottom of the main forum page. You might have to play with the dimensions of the original photo to keep the downloaded version from being too large since that sometimes stretches the text of all messages to the right (possibly off the screen)" Claire Here is a link that might be useful: TinyPic site