Time of maturity depends (along with weather conditions) upon variety of seeds.Annie Oakley will mature in 45 days where as Clemson spineless will mature in 54 days.In cold weather conditions it may take few days more to mature.Height and spread variations also will depend upon weather conditions.I have read many postings reporting a height of 8'.Here in MD I have seen okras reaching to height of 6'. I have seen one nursery selling okra plants. Lack of heat, light and moisture ( which is difficult to maintain in house) will make plants leggy.

take them out of their little greenhouses and put in a pot? By all means! If I understand you correctly these are still growing in a covered container of some type ("little greenhouse")? That is used for germination only. The cover needs to be removed once they germinate or it stays too wet and the roots rot. And germination mixes don't contain any nutrients. Once the plants have developed their first set of true leaves they need to be transplanted to a little larger cups/cell packs with a good growing soil-less mix. Most mixes come with some fertilizer mixed in but if not you need to feed them something - many use a good liquid but only use 1/4 strength. Hope this helps. Dave

I don't know how easy Needles are to separate. But my clump started to suckering within a single season, so now there are developing Needle suckers where there were none in April. I don't intend to separate for a few reasons. Not sure how well suckers can survive at this stage and not quite sure how to do it though assume easier than with Med. fan which seem notoriously difficult. Also, I want the clump to build up food and mass for the winter and severing the suckers would seem to defeat this as they have only been in the site for 1.5 years. Thinking of which palms I regularly divide by pups and the only one that comes to mind is Raphis (Lady palms), which are easy. I agree with Lago, if you want to propagate palms go with seeds, some are real EASY. Try Washingtonia, Phoenix canarience, and maybe Queens and Butia capiata. Butias are supposed to be slow but my Butias seem to be on steroids!! :)

To make it produce fruit all year long? Well, it's in the lighting, temperature and nutrients. You will notice after a while the plant will probably stop making fruit. If I can't coax it with the bloom nutrient alone (And yes, miracle grow makes a bloom nutrient, so if you prefer miracle grow, use it's "bloom" version.), then I have to play "tricks" on it with lights and temp. 12 hours of light is what tomatoes prefer to flower and fruit. So, what I do is give it 2 weeks at 15 degrees cooler temperature than it is at fruiting stage and increase the lighting for about 16 hours light on. This moves the plant back into vegetative stage for a while, sorta to give it "amnesia" about it's fruiting stage. I do this for 2 weeks and then I reduce the lighting back to 12 hours lights on and increase the temperature back to where it was at fruiting. Then add a few bloom nutrient to the water. Make sure you do this temp change gradually or it will shock the plant. Unless you have 2 or more tomato plants you can alternate the time you play this trick, you will be out of fresh tomatoes for about 3 weeks, maybe once or twice a year.