It will all depend on the variety of course and to a degree, on the weather too. But as a general guide, 3-4 weeks as Wayne said. Then they taper off fairly quickly. But yes you have time for a fall crop if you don't wait too long to plant them. Dave

I hope this helps! Sorry for the delayed response. I've been in squash bug battle mode w my pumpkins. I have one more on the vine. Praying it makes it. And praying these stay good thru November. I'm storing them inside. Not in the fridge. Thoughts?

The remarkable amount of poor information you're getting is in part because you haven't properly stated your question, nor provided the pertinent information to get a clear response. First of all, as was stated, your zone is crucial, it determines when you plant, but also how quickly the heat comes on in summer, which is what will likely be the reason your peas stop producing. Secondly, are you growing for fresh peas, drying, or seed crop? This will determine how you manage the plot and whether you can be assured of enough time to ripen a second crop in the same plot. Whether you plant in single rows or wide beds also makes a difference - wide raised beds may dry out sooner, but thiskly planted wide beds will often maintain cooler soil temps, thus prolonging harvest. It also makes a difference in deciding which varieties to plant, assuming you are interested in optimal yield, and not conducting some agronomic experiment. The days to maturity that you are basing your calculations on is also flawed, because aside from differences in varieties, you will be planting as soon as the ground can be worked, which is not the same as optimal growing conditions. Planting a few weeks after last frost date may well give the same harvest window as you get by planting ASAP, because growing conditions (soil temp, light, water) would be more favorable. All this being said, depending on what the weather brings, your harvest could extend anywhere from 10 to 50 days... that is simply part of the nature of gardening. If you are growing for dried peas, just do a few harvests of fresh peas at first and then let the plants mature and dry as they follow their natural course. When you stop picking fresh peas, the plant will stop producing more. Once the plants stop setting fruit and have started to dry, you can remove them from the field and hang them to dry elsewhere, thus freeing your beds for subsequent plantings, but unless you undersow the peas or use transplants, you will have to calculate your second planting based on a fairly wide (and at this point unknowable) set of criteria. It is definitely not a simple question.

farmerdilla Thanks. The variety is this one, Gina. It appears to be a romano type, so it would probably be treated as a green snap bean since that's how it will be eaten, not as dried beans. But I'm still not sure if I'll need to cut them back or remove them after the first flush and plant again to get the highest production this upcoming season. I'm hoping to freeze enough to last through the winter, maybe 45 pints.