Woolly whitefly. Common on citrus in your area. From Univ of CA http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7401.html Here is a link that might be useful: re whiteflies, including woolly

Timmy1: I know that legginess is caused by not enough light. . .what kind of nutrient deficiency would cause the yellow tips? doof: It's good to hear someone say that it looks good. . .I've decided not to prune the suckers, I'd rather have as many tomatoes as I can get, even if they're a little smaller. wvtomatoman: Thank you for clearing that up about the wilt. The top branches just seem so much more droopy than the others, and I know it's not a lack of water (the soil was moist 2 or 3 inches down. It's not on the end of a row; that's why it's weird to me. On one side of it is an Oregon Spring plant that set fruit when it was only about a 18" tall (but very bushy). That Oregon Spring now has 15 tomatoes of various sizes on it's tiny little frame. On the other side of it is a Green Zebra that's growing very densely. The German Orange Strawberry seems to be the only one really reaching for light like that, but it could also be that the others are putting more energy into flower production, and will start "reaching" later when they kick back into their growth mode. blazepepper: Thanks for the kind words. As I said, this is my first time doing this and my main concern was that it was a communicable disease that might infect my other plants. ebrodzinski: That's what I thought too. . .that it looks like fertilizer burn. I've never used chemical fertilizers on them, only E.B. Stone's organic tomato food (see link below) that was recommended by someone at the local nursery. I applied it a little more often than the instructions recommended, but the last application was over a month ago. I guess, from reading these responses, that I won't worry about it too much. I'll just keep talking to 'em sweetly, and soon I will be in the joyous rapture of beautiful homegrown tomatoes! Here is a link that might be useful: E.B. Stone Organics Tomato and Vegetable Food

Well, I looked it up and found that a 70% neem oil product is labeled for early blight and other tomato leaf fungal diseases. But the product carries a warning regarding honey bees. You may want to note that when selecting a fungicide. Neem Oil Product Label I get a small amount of Early Blight most years and a greater amount of Septoria. The spots in the pictures look more like Septoria to me than Early Blight. I may be wrong on both accounts. However, I've found leaf trimming the affected foliage, and continually maximizing air flow by distancing plants and management pruning gives my plants an opportunity to outgrow most Early Blight and Septoria infestations. Still, I have to eliminate entire plants occasionally to safeguard the others. This year is the first time in several years that I've had to spray Daconil to arrest a severe Septoria infestation at one end of my garden (the least sunny end of the bed). And in this instance I trimmed off all the the lower and visibly infested leaves and only sprayed the foliage just above that point trying not to hit any fruit or flowers. I'll keep the neem oil thing in mind, but don't want to kill honey bees since I also have cukes and blackberries simultaneously and in same garden with tomatoes.

That's quite a variety of plants and while they look lovely in combination NOW, they will not continue to do so long term as they require quite different growing conditions in term of light, water needs and even the type of potting soil. I would pot them up individually or at least with like plants together (ie., the kalanchoes). That will simplify their care needs considerably. And while I am no houseplant expert, I think the ID's are pretty much dead-on.