Your 'grass' is probably Carex pennsylvanica, Pennsylvania sedge. It's a very common woodland plant that blooms in early spring. I imagine it grows other places than in the woods but that's where I usually see it. Not a non-native at all. I think Jeanne was just using Carex conica because of the similar picture. I think Duchesnia is probably right for the other one, too. I'm constantly pulling that one out of my flower beds. WW Here is a link that might be useful: Carex pennsylvanica

What about its roots, where it hasn't sent up a piece of grass yet? I was told not to pull it because then all of the "nuts" in the root would send up new shoots. I have to say I am still fighting this beastie. I was in my daylily bed yesterday, and just SICK because I got a little carried away with the Round Up trying to get all the nut grass, and by doing so, I killed off several of my prized daylillies. I'm just SICK. And that's not all! Not only is the nut grass BACK in the bed, but you can stand at the top of the bed and see it "marching" out of the bed on both sides! And on top of that, it has invaded the bed on the right! (Deanna -- where do you find that product: Manage. I've never seen it, and I'm definitely in need!) Scotty, if you don't want to dump your compost bin, please try using a bit of it in a small place and checking to see if the nut grass came from there. I noticed you said you also used peat, and it wouldn't be the first time I've had products that were contaminated by a "beastie". But if it does grow out nut grass, then really -- you don't want more of this. I'm going to be fighting this all summer. That will make 2 1/2 years of fighting the darn stuff, and I know it came in on some plants I ordered. I may end up killing all the plants just to get rid of the nut sedge! Really, you don't want that. MacThayer

Wow, Las Palitas doesn't make it sound like such a great option... Are they wrong? "Dune Sedge, Carex pansa is a very small creeping dune plant. Leaves making little tufts where it is happy. The happier the plant, the bigger the lawn. Needs near beach sand. The only time I've ever seen it look good in the wild was in an inner dune low spot that was moist and protected, then Dune Sedge almost made a lumpy lawn. Dune sedge cannot compete with alien grasses such as Veldt or Bromus. It sometimes gets called out for restoration, in that situation it should be either grown from propagules from the site, or divided on site. In yards it will only work in beach sand, moist protected flagstone/paver crack type situations. Someone has been spending time talking this one up. Here's a typical email or conversation. We want a lawn for about 5000 sq. feet of our backyard. However, we don't want to water or mow much (with the emphasis on water). We live in Los Osos where our soil is relatively fine-grained, dirty sand. We have two kids ages 7 and 4 who want to play sports (soccer, wiffle ball, etc.) in the backyard. Carex pansa looks like it might do the trick but we have a few questions: 1. Will it take traffic? no 2. Would it be a good idea to add something like composted steer manure to the soil? no 3. Can a gallon be split to create plugs? yes but we only have a few 4. Will we really be using less water than something like a dwarf tall fescue or other slow-growing, drought resistant grass mixes that could be grown from seed? (In the driest months, in areas that we don't water, the sand is moist 6-10 inches down and deeper.) Carex pansa is native there, forming little clumps separated by feet of open sand kinda like a dog with mange. Will not work as lawn, none of the natives will that we've seen, except maybe Dantonia, but it needs more water than some of the turf lawn grasses. If you wish to try to make a lawn with Dune Sedge make the lawn as small as you can to make the kids happy, put in 'trails' , native groundcovers and shrubs. Wildlife, kids and you will be happy." Here is a link that might be useful: Las Pilitas link

I completely agree with Donn, growing grasses in plugs or small pots is better than direct seeding. Once you plant the plugs, it's easier to keep the area weed free while the plugs gain in size. You didn't say, but I'm assuming this is a sunny site. You also didn't mention if you wanted a taller grass or a low growing one. If low growing, and if you don't care that the grass may reseed then I would also suggest Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca). This one is tough as nails, and if you let the self sown seedlings grow, then you can just pull up and toss the older plants in 3-4 years instead of lift and divide. These are a snap to grow from seed, put on a lot of growth in the first year and are full size and blooming in the second year. For taller grasses, Panicum virgatum is hardy for me, although blooms too late to really enjoy the blooms much. Calamagrostis brachytricha has also proven hardy for me. I grew it from seed and in the second year they were full, well-developed plants reaching about 4'. These, too, don't bloom until late August although the blooms are beautiful and hold up thru winter. Deschampsia is proving to be a favourite of mine and is a great suggestion. If you're set on growing from seed then the following won't apply, but I cannot recommend Calamagrostis acutiflora Karl Foerster enough. It is an amazing grass for cold zone gardeners. It has tall growth by June followed by blooms and reaches about 5'. The blooms go thru many stages and colours and hold up well thru winter snows. You can't grow it from seed though, but it's widely available at the nurseries come spring, one gallon plants usually about $5, well worth it, I think. Another plant that I grow but I know a lot of gardeners hate is Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea). This is a rampant spreader, but if your area is surrounded by mown grass or bordered in some way then the plant may work. It is also very hardy, blooms out at about 4' and doesn't seed out (I've never found a seedling). I don't find it difficult to keep the runners in check, they pull up very easy in my soil. I have it in a number of places, one area is bordered by mown grass so the runners just get mown down - no problem. In another area I have the pink/green variegated (this is really beautiful in the early spring - emerging shoots are really, really pink before they take on the variegation). It's a clump in the middle of an area that gets a lot of foot traffic around it and although the clump has gained in size, it is not spreading out of control. Most gardeners would advise against this plant but I've not had any great trouble with it at all. You can't grow it from seed (that I'm aware of) but I'm sure any gardener would be more than willing to give you some if they have it, or if you purchase a 1 gallon container of it, you'd be able to split it up into several plants. I found dried heads of Orchard Grass (Dactylis glomerata) last year in a ditch and I really like the look of them. I think the plant, though, really had little in the way of foliage and that which was there wasn't very appealing. The problem with any type of pasture, or forage grass is that they are really meant for animal foraging, they don't grow into huge clumps and aren't strong stemmed plants. They're generally grown for the green to feed cattle/horses, and not for the bloom or ornamental value. In any case, some do have nice blooms, like Orchard Grass, or another is Phleum pratense, aka Timothy grass. I'm sure both will self sow readily but I'm also fairly certain they're short lived, relying on reseeding instead of longevity. But if you're looking for more of a natural or meadow look instead of clumps of grasses spaced at intervals, then the Orchard Grass, perhaps mixed with another (like the Timothy grass which blooms out later and has more foliage) would be a good pick. Hope this helps.