speaking personally, I really hate the hedge-sheared look. Never liked hairstyles that stick-out awkwardly all that much either, unless the kid is creative with paint color and costume.

I plant grasses mostly in pots and love natural looking tufts that cascade gently around, even when dry...and try to keep them natural as long as possible. The advantage with pots is that you can move them around - in dormant season cut back what you want - but move empty-looking or hacked-stem perennial pots to a back area, and let the more attractive stuff show...even if just dried forms.

For me, today was a time to cut back many dried stems to let new greenery show. But not all! Cute Seed pods were left, and some tall stems for garden architecture. On clumps of grasses, why not try a sneaky _tailored_ approach? It takes only a little more time, but try using fingers to reach in near the base of stems, to separate small sections of dead grass near the base of greenery...perhaps use kitchen shears for dexterity. This way you can cut close to the base of stems, in small less visible sections. Try various angles that match (or contrast with) the different heights and direction of new growth. Is there an aspect of the pot (or setting) that can guide your custom trim concept for balance or natural movement of the eye? Can you make it layered like an indoor floral arrangement - even adding a stem or 3 for temporary interest?

Reaching in to section and separate dead grass, and cutting first around taller growth - is a way to use one's Zen Power to just thin, rather than destroy, allowing green or red mystery shoots to appear, and still allow nature to finish the thinning process gradually, as might normally happen during spring storms. Consider it a partnership.

Just an alternative...as a way to avoid the ugly stark buzz-cut bunches that look more like vandals have attacked your plants than a gardener - or nature. I say, try a light touch, or let it be till grass is taller...altho I've noticed quite a few others seem to rush through and maul their dried grasses. Like rubber bands around daffodil leaves, I hope it doesn't happen on my street.

For deciduous warm season grasses like fountain grass or miscanthus (maiden grasses) whacking them totally down does not result in unnatural hedge sheared growth when they green up. Go ahead or you'll regret not doing it because the brown dried stuff looks awful mixed in with the fresh.

Evergreen cool season grasses like blue oat grass and fescues and sedges should not be given a severe haircut but should be combed through instead.

I also hate hedge seared shrubs but don't think whacking down fountain grass applies.

I have a lot of Miscanthus and at this time of year, cutting it back only looks hacked off for a few weeks as new growth covers it up right away. I cover the cut off stems with woodchips.That way I don't have to move it very far. I have to chip anyway, so why not?

The giant Miscanthus gets burned to the ground and recovers as if nothing happened. Normal Miscanthus reacts the same way, but some are located where I can't do this. I cut off fern fronds this time of year also but leave about a foot of stalk. They act as stakes later in the year when the fronds would normally flop. Now is a good time to move ferns. Use the fronds as a handle and then cut them off after planting.

I always wait until Spring to cut back ornamental grasses. That way the new growth gets an earlier start, because it's protected. I've always hand cut each clump to about six inches from the ground (whatever height misses the new growth). My last garden had about three dozen large grasses which just about made me want to give up on cutting them back. I've heard that electric trimmers make quick easy work of the chore if you have a lot of them. I plan to purchase some as soon as I get my new yard planted.

Cut above most of the new growth. Use a hand scythe.