What kind of soil is it in? How big is the pot vs. the tree? In the picture, the plant looks good; a nice, crisp green. But, if you say the leaves are going brown, the obviously you have a problem. The plant is NOT dead though, but obviously there is a problem. If the leaves are browning, I suspect you have a root issue, where the plant isn't taking up water. The funny thing is, overwatering causes it by rotting the roots away, which, as you describe, is what happened to the other ones. It sounds like you may have cut off the watering before the trunk rotted, but the roots are likely rotted. As you know, having defective roots will not allow the plant to take in water, giving symptoms of underwatering. Most people then apply more water, which aids in the rotting process. So, what to do? I personally think that an emergency repot is in line. Although early to do, it's your last shot I think. You could try the cutting thing, but if you are a newbie, as you say, you'll quickly find that rooting cuttings isn't all THAT easy, especially from a plant that is weak. Rooting cuttings relies on the energy stored in the cutting to pop roots out, and a stressed plant doesn't have much energy to spare. I'd cut off the water, and start looking into getting your pachira into a new pot, if needed, and definately new soil; one with good drainage and aeration for the roots. Miracle Grow doesn't fit this description. Please let us know what you intend to do, so we can help you out. If there's one plant that is special to me, it's my pachira, so I'd like to see yours be saved. Joe

Crabapples are notorious for foliage disease problems. They are carefully bred to produce cultivars that are resistant to these diseases. Prairefire is a good cultivar. I would not want a 'generic' crabapple on my property. When cutting off your suckers try to prune them all the way down to the root they are growing from, but know that you can't always do that. Also the more the tree is pruned (from the top), the more suckers it will produce. Although I think it will produce suckers regardless. Be prepared to continuously prune suckers! It gets worse the older the tree gets. I have two crabapples and I usually do one a year. You get used to seeing them, but just don't let them get out of control.

I, too, have read the thing about planting several cuttings together, but I don't buy into that thought because that just results in multiple plants that APPEAR to be one plant. I currently have 4 adult plants, and all of them have multiple trunks. Now, these adults' multiple trunks all start ABOVE the ground. In other words, you see one trunk coming out of the ground, and all the other trunks split off that trunk, which is what I like seeing. I want the same thing on these new babies. As far as your cutting goes, that's kind of what I wonder if I need to do. I mean, shoots typically sprout when you cut somewhere above the base, which is what basically happened to yours when that branch broke off. This is why I wonder if I should top mine. But, I am scared to do that because I don't want to cut the main stem for fear of it then causing the plant to split into multiple trunks at that point, which might be too high up. I'd really prefer if the splits occur down low, just above the ground, you know what I mean?

Thank you all for the prompt responses. First of all, yes, I'm new to succulents. I've had no interest in growing anything that couldn't survive outside all year in my native climate until recently. I've specifically become enamored with crassulas (largely because it was a mature jade given to me that kick-started the obsession). In the last two months, I've poured over these forums on a daily basis, done quite a bit of research elsewhere, and it's gotten to the point where almost everything I read I've already learned, digested, taken notes on, etc. I understand I can't gain experience on the internet, but I'm going to milk what it can offer me for all it's worth. Why do I want to separate the trunks? Because I work with bonsai, and I want to train these as "large" bonsai. I agree that aesthetically it looks great now, but I won't like the way this plant will look in the future if I leave both trunks there. I know that much. I would also prefer the plant puts all its growth into the one trunk as soon as possible. The bigger they get, and the closer their bases grow together, the harder this is going to be down the line. I didn't think this would be a big deal. And if it is, fine. I'll just whack one trunk off above the soil line and try to root it. I'm not offended (really), but not sure why this would be considered overly ambitious. To clear up confusion on my #2 point: I was concerned that if I were to cut these in half (beneath the soil line) that I would run the risk of the plants rotting after I planted them and eventually resumed watering them. They BOTH would have roots already attached, but BOTH would need to heal the separation cut before being watered. While it's claimed that I haven't learned that "your new plant can stand to be bare root for a while, does it no harm at all. As long as it's not in direct sun & is kept DRY, it can be out of mix for a while", I actually have learned this. I've read that and learned that, but it's always phrased similarly. This stuff is all relative. What's a "while"? With other plants, that could refer to a few hours. The plant has been uprooted and dry for a 8 days now. Specifics can be rare when you start looking for them. That's where my confusion comes from. I was never concerned about a week, but two? three? If I were to cut them in half, I would have to leave them unwatered for even longer. What's my limit? As for my plucked leaf theory... the more leaves that were plucked, the softer and wrinklier the branch. (And that's no stretch, it's plain as day). It's the only variable that was changed. I'm just not sure why seeming "anxious" or "ambitious" prevents me from learning how to properly execute a procedure on a notoriously "easy" plant to work with. I've worked successfully with much trickier plants for many years. I can plant the jade as it is, care for it perfectly for years and years, but I'm not going to learn a thing about separating trunks beneath the soil until I ask about it, learn about it, and do it. Right? I'll be right back here asking the same thing, which can be soiled down to: "how risky is this?" If it's obvious I don't "get" some things, please point me in the right direction to acquire that knowledge. After months of reading, I think I get the "basics" (and am tired of reading them, as I'm sure you're all tired of posting them). I just have some specific questions, because I AM ambitious, and eager, and curious. That's why I'm reading the manuals, so to speak, before doing anything I'll later regret. I'm sure everyone can understand that. Oh yeah. As for the cuttings not holding water? They are not potted up. I was advised to let them callus over for at least a week before doing that. It's funny, actually, because they are "standing up DRY in an empty clay pot in the shade". Or were, rather. I moved them inside earlier today, since the trunks have lost 20% of their size in that environment. Thank you, again, for all the responses. I hope my tone isn't too defensive, just trying to clear some things up. I really appreciate the responses. Gray