Auteck, I've been warned against afternoon "watering" as opposed to light "misting". Which one are you doing? I will try to get some updated pictures for you. heelsfan, I just came back from columbia, SC which is only 4 hours drive from here and what a difference in climate. It has rained here twice in the last 2 months yet yesterday in SC I got thunderstormed on 8 times in one day. It was like a rain forest. That is the kind of humid coastal plain weather that puts that tropical swamp grasses into high gear and we haven't had that here and we don't normally even get that kind of weather until August. If you're having or have had that kind of hot humid weather with temps in the mid 90's and above then that really isn't what I'm having to contend with. I did see some tall fescue that actually looked like it was in excellent shape though.

The OP didn't give any ideas where he lives and that may make a difference.... I grow both W. sinensis and W. floribunda. I grow both as 'trees' and would not grow either in any other way! My Chinese one is the oldest (planted in its current location in 2001). The Japanese one was planted in 2007. At this point, the Chinese one only puts out one or two annoying root sucker each year, while the Japanese one is still producing 6-10 a year. In its younger years, the Chinese one also produced that many a year - so I conclude that the sucker production decreases with age and maintenance (whenever possible we tear off (rather than cut off) the root suckers in hopes of removing the budwood that gives rise to the suckers....) Both 'trees' produce lots of whippy/curly new growth every year - we prune all of it back every week or so which keeps the trees looking tidy and also promotes formation of flowering wood (and, for the Chinese one, promotes a second, less prolific flush of flowers). Grown as trees, I don't find much difference in the work required to maintain the two types - except that we let the Chinese one get to 8-10' while are keeping the Japanese one to 6' or so. We may decide at some point to prune the Chinese one into a smaller shape too.) I highly recommend that anyone considering growing a wisteria grow it as a tree - much, much easier to prune and control and it makes a very striking garden feature.

I'm always amazed about the 'general hosta knowledge' that blues are not good in the sun. Balderdash, by and large. ===========>>> hillbill .... what you can do up near the north pole is something you can not make over-generalizations about ... comparing your garden.. to say anyone south of kentucky.. is like comparing apples to oranges ... and its not just the sun.. its the sun.. plus the ambient heat ... and perhaps the night temps on top of that ... ALL HOSTA ARE ONLY SHADE TOLERANT ... they all do extremely well in full sun.. and perhaps in a given 3 year period.. growing twice or 3 times as big.. from all the usable sun ... unfortunately... the foo foo ones.. will look ugly as sin in late summer ... do not fear the sun ... just take note.. and move the ones that cant cope ... mel.. just go for it... if it doesnt work.. move them again .... white tissue is a negative to a plant ... producing no chlorophyll ... ergo not adding food ... and it is said it doesnt breath or transpire [sweat] as well .... so putting white tissue in sun .. and not only will it get a sunburn/scorch .. it cant move water in and out of the leave fast enough to compensate for the sun ... so those TEND to burn when they get too much sun ... [and of course there exceptions that dont care] in the north.. that might be late august.. when the snow finally melts ... lol ... in the south .. that might be may ... so your zone REALLY...REALLY .. matters .. actually its not even zone.. it the inclination of the sun .... how close you are to the north pole ... now blue .. is the wax ... and the same logic applies.. it interferes with the green leaf under.. and so.. its vigor can be reduced due to the impact on food production .... and the sun can heat it .. but it isnt going to drip off.. the removal is usually mechanical on some level .... overhead watering when hot... afternoon t-shower ... etc ... or hot nights with rain ... all that said .. also keep in mind.. that noon is the high light INTENSITY .... not the hot part of the day .. which is usually later in the afternoon after the intense sun has parboiled everything .... so i wouldnt be as concerned with sun only at high noon... when the plant is presumably full of water from the cool morning .. as i would be with full sun on the plant from say 3 to 6 .... when its water has run low .. and then the sun is blistering it ... in a coffee buzzzzzzzz .. hope some of it makes sense.. lol .. i re-read it.. just let me know which parts i need to expand on later.. lol .. ken

Dieter - only non-native wisteria. Native wisteria is much smaller and better behaved and will not damage the structure it is trained over (the non-native wisteria planted here when we bought this house DID pull the porch down - and still refuses to stay dead, six years after we chopped it down! Argh.)