put down plastic/drip, weeds between rows
sandy0225
13 years ago
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myfamilysfarm
13 years agosandy0225
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Pine shavings between rows
Comments (7)We have piney woods all around us and there is no shortage of stuff growing in there. So hard to imagine it could be harmful on a path. Since it was kiln dried it would be "cured" to some extent. I would think by the end of summer if some ends up getting into your soil, it would be ok. I use shavings in my chickens, then gets composted and then to the garden. Also I mulch my flower beds with pine bark. I think it's the fresh stuff going directly on the bed that is the real issue. It sounds like you're concerned that it will leach something over onto your growing bed, and as I understand it the issue with fresh shavings is that it pulls nutrient from the soil. As to the earlier post about won't it blow away, the minute it gets wet, it will stay put, so wet it down with a spray hose to get it to stay where you want it....See MoreWeed Guard in Rows?
Comments (3)For seed plantings for me it really depends. If it's one plant (i.e. a Summer squash) that will eventually cover a big area that I plant more than 1 foot apart, I will cut a hole. If it's something that is planted really close together (i.e. Snap Peas), I end up getting frustrated, and just cut away the material (in my case black plastic) from the entire "planting area" but not the whole bed. I apparently don't have the patience to cut wholes every 3 inches for individual plants! I don't think the cutting a slit route would work - I would be afraid that once the seed germinated, it wouldn't be able to find it's way to light and / or get damaged in wind by the material when the seedling is very young. Just my 2 cents!...See MoreIdeas to get rid of grass/weeds along fence row.
Comments (23)Intherosegarden has got the answer! "Weed flaming" was once a popular technique that is being revived, with excellent results and organic approved. The reasons why are: it is cost and labor effective, can be done when fields are wet, it does not bring dormant seeds to the surface, and does not set anything on fire, as it simply 'boils' the water out of the cellular structure. Use the torch to melt ice on walkways and driveways. Always use the Red Dragon Brand or you will be sorry. You can get a flamer squeeze valve with a pilot light on the handle, a backpack kit or a dolly. Heavy duty torches are available. I can do 100 acres of fence before lunch....See Moretomato row, plastic sheeting as mulch
Comments (3)Nate, It looks like you're ready for planting season to just go ahead and get here. Now, if only the weather will cooperate a little bit. I don't use plastic sheeting because it sheds water and I want the water, most years (2004 and 2007 being exceptions) at least, to soak down into the ground instead of rolling off. I do use weed block fabric in my tomato rows and have done so for many years. If you put your drip irrigation beneath the weed block fabric and mulch heavily on top of the weedblock (or the plastic sheeting) you'll be able to irrigate your rows of tomato plants without growing a multitude of weeds along with them. Just be sure that you promptly pull any weeds that pop up in the mulch on top of the weedblock. Otherwise, the weeds will root right down through the weedblock and you'll have a hard time getting them out. The weedblock doesn't guarantee no weeds, of course, but if you promptly remove any weeds that pop up on top of or beside the weedblock, you'll be able to keep that area weed free with relatiively little effort. I never would be able to maintain our large garden as well as I do without the use of weedblock fabric in some rows (generally those with plants requiring wider spacing but not in those with closely-spaced plants like beans). I also have it in all my pathways every year which further reduces the need to pull weeds. I hope you'll put mulch on top of the plastic once the plants are in the ground and growing. I mulch very lightly early in the season because I want the ground to continue to warm up to a point, but once the soil temperatures are getting hot, I cover plastic and fabric weedblock with mulch so the sunlight's heat won't roast the soil, earthworms and other beneficial soil-dwelling creatures i ncluding beneficial soil microbes.You can literally cook your soil in hot temps underneath black plastic if you don't put mulch on top of the plastic. With weedblock fabric, without a couple of inches of mulch on top of the weed block, weeds will get enough sunlight through the weedblock to sprout and grow and as they growth they will lift up your weedblock fabric somewhat. The wind here has been crazy all day but none of my weedblock has moved at all, and only some of it has mulch on it at this point, while other sections are completely bare because they aren't even planted yet. I do think the wind has dropped some this afternoon. This morning it was gusting in the upper 30s and low 40s. I'll be headed outside in a little while to cover up a few things with row cover (which I first learned about long ago from Dr. Cotner's excellent book) so they won't freeze tonight. If my forecast is correct, our temps won't actually drop low enough to damage the cool-season plants. But, we have dropped 5-7 degrees lower than forecast quite often this winter, so I'm going to cover up a few things just in case this is one of those nights. It is always better to be safe than sorry. Dawn...See Morejrslick (North Central Kansas, Zone 5B)
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