Lou, You obviously have some agenda against me (re: the "Alfalfa fertilizer post", TREES forum; go back and check it, BTW). I don't think I was jumping ignorantly into anything; my post was intended to differentiate cuttings from layering; that's what I "jumped into". The comment about JM cuttings was merely coincidental to the conversation. Re-read my post, deleting that one, incidental, seemingly offensive sentence, and THEN tell me if you can argue with anything I said. And, if a consensus of JM experts out there (I'm not one of them) agree that JM's root easily, then I will happily strike that ONE SENTENCE from my post. I'd also like to see a consensus of which is superior; own-root plants of the named selections, or grafted plants. (That may open a can of worms!!! ;-) Thanks for the link, Lou. I first began following that post in 2006. Stop thinking you know anything about me, my knowledge base, or my skills in gardening (or the lack thereof, as the case may be). Stop the vitriol, and consider the entire content and context of a post before YOU jump in. And quit the personal attacks; it does nothing to advance the forums.

This is the application form that I had to fill out. Very simple. Plus had to send pictures of the plant Dave APPLICATION TO REGISTER A MAPLE CULTIVAR NAME (See guidance notes overleaf) Species PALMATUM Cultivar name to be registered VERKADEÂS JACUS POTUS Person or Organisation originating name ÂDAVID VERKADE OF DAVEÂS NURSERY Person or organisation registering name ÂDAVID VERKADE  Have any other names been used for this cultivar, such as a nursery code name, registered trade mark, etc ? Yes/No NO If so, what is/are the names ? ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ.. Details of Origin Chance seedling, witches broom, mutant or deliberate cross ÂSEEDLING  Seed /sport parent, if known  Pollen parent, if known  Person/organisation who selected this cultivar, if different from above ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ.. No. of years under observation ÂÂ4ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ.. Description of Cultivar General Description ÂÂTHE MAPLE IS NAME FOR MY DAUGHTER JACQUELINE VERKADE ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ. ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ. THE NEW FLUSH OF SPRING GROWTH IS A VERY THIN RIBBON LEAF OF DEEP BURGUNDY COLOUR APPROXIMATELY ¾" LONG AND AS IT MATURES INTO AN ODD SHAPE TURNS TO A SALMON COLOUR THEN TURNS TO GREEN. THE SHAPE OF THE LEAF WHEN MATURE RESEMBLES ACER PALMATUM HAGOROMO. THE PETIOLE REMAINS PINKISH IN COLOUR. THE PETIOLE IS ALMOST NON-EXISTENCE. THE SECOND FLUSH OF GROWTH IS NOT LIKE THE FIRST, IT COMES OUT IN SALMON COLOUR AND NOT THE THIN RIBBON LEAF OF THE FIRST FLUSH OF GROWTH THEN TURNS TO GREEN. THE NODES ARE VERY CLOSE TOGETHER AND THE BRANCHES ARE THIN AND DELICATE LOOKING. THE PLANT GROWS IN BUSH FORM. ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂOutstanding Features ÂODD LEAF AND THE SALMON COLOURS ON THE SECOND FLUSH OF GROWTHÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ... ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ. Similar established cultivar(s), if knownÂHagoromo, Kosh mino, Momenshide  Suitable garden/landscape uses (e.g. small or large garden, landscape, patio, container, bonsai) ?  SMALL OR LARGE GARDEN AND LANDSCAPE  Cultural needs (e.g. full sun, shade, wind protection) ? ÂÂFILTERED SUNLIGHT  Â Propagation method (s) ÂÂGRAFTING  Publication Has the name and description of this cultivar been published yet ? Yes/No. NO Relevant first publication e.g. catalogue, magazine, book, and date ...

I looked at your pics. Cut that off. Every time you see a branch "whip" out like that, cut it back to the origin. Your tree is grafted. The long dark green leafed branches are growing from the bottom part of the tree, the "base" and not the grafted portion you want to grow. Normally, good grafts don't do this. Sometimes this happens, roses too. Congrats on your tree, it looks nice. I have a baby coral bark that I planted last September that has grown a little this year, I love the red barks in winter.

This came out from the URI Extension Service last week. It was dated March 4th. "Winter Moth update from URI Extension Entomologist Heather Faubert: "I'm afraid winter moth eggs will be hatching in March as they did in 2010 & 2012. The earliest hatch date recorded was March 21, 2012. I'm worried this year egg hatch could be even earlier. I set up tree wraps in 4 locations in RI, one in CT and several Massachusetts blueberry growers also set up tree wraps. The tree wraps encouraged female winter moths to lay eggs just below the tree wraps. I've removed the tree wraps at four locations and found hundreds of eggs to monitor. Winter moth eggs start out orange, but then turn blue a few days before hatching. Very handy for monitoring egg hatch! All eggs I've checked this week are still orange, but that may change next week with predicted warm weather. For landscape trees it’s not important to control winter moth just when hatching, but for apple, pear, and blueberry growers it’s very important. Once eggs hatch, winter moth caterpillars wriggle into swollen buds and begin feeding. For apple & pear trees and blueberry bushes, swollen buds are primarily flower buds. Caterpillars crawl inside the flower buds and begin feeding. Once caterpillars are inside buds they are protected from insecticide sprays until just before bloom and by this time many flowers may have been damaged or destroyed, destroying the crop. Landscape trees, on the other hand, can withstand early winter moth feeding damage. To save landscape trees from being defoliated, insecticides can be applied after trees leaf-out, but while caterpillars are still small and before excessive feeding damage has occurred." Here's the picture that came with it. If you have valuable landscape trees that have had winter moth damage in the past, then look for the eggs. Once they start to turn blue that's when they are beginning to hatch. Personally, I would use Spinosad (Captain Jacks Dead Bug Brew) as a contact insecticide. It's OMRI certified organic. If you have a J Maple you still have another chance to get the caterpillars after they emerge from the buds. Steve