They will be a bit more fussy in containers than in the soil, so be prepared to protect them from the hottest sun. Also, this spring, I lost a JM that I had been growing in a container for about 8 years. It had come out beautifully with a heavy flush of new growth when we were zapped by a sudden and severe (for us) cold snap. Though I hoped that only the leaves were killed, it soon became apparent that the enire plant was affected. So, protect them from something like that! I had less hardy plants that did fine, but not the JM. ;-(

Mine is 5x5 and still growing, I have it in full sun near my pond- I am zone 6. Great cultivar!

I'm not being indignant when I say that I've spent hundreds of hours in workshops and lectures listening to bonsai masters and in some cases tree professionals discuss how best to lift established trees. I can say that the general consensus is to root prune, in order to chase the roots back closer to the trunk so you are harvesting a larger fraction of feeder roots instead of only the conductive roots found near the bole. I'm a huge fan of Dr Whitcomb and quote his works very often, particularly the work 'Plant Production in Containers II'and I agree that root pruning as a tool is best left to those with some experience in that area. I have used it, though less than regularly, as a tool on my trees as well as the trees of others, to help short circuit the affect of a radical top reduction, that affect being a prolific flush of basal shoots and water sprouts. I have also used it extensively as a way to prepare wild trees/shrubs and trees planted and established in the landscape for lifting, prior to being indentured as future bonsai specimens. My experience is that not only is root pruning to chase roots back to the trunk logical, but it also works quite well in practical application. Keep in mind too, that MANY of the practices that were taken as ironclad in 1987, have long been abandoned. I had dinner with the past president of the Michigan Nurseryman's Assn. not long ago, and for a good part of the evening we discussed 'the way we were'. What I remember very clearly, was him saying, "Al, we don't do ANYTHING the way we did 30 years ago". I even wrote a little piece on that comment that can be found on GW pages somewhere. Of course, I didn't take the 'anything' at face value, but the gist of the conversation was what I alluded to when I talked about 'what used to be iron clad'. Things change. Just something to think about. If you DO decide to root prune, please know it will be up to you to prevent the ground from becoming too dry, though with the 2-stage process, it should be less an issue than if you pruned 360*. Whatever you decide - best luck - good growing. Al

I would reinforce the suggestion NOT to amend planting holes. It has long been disproven that this is a beneficial practice and is just asking for trouble when dealing with a heavy, clay soil. And you never want to dig a planting hole deeper than the depth of the rootball as it comes from the nursery, Loosening the soil in the bottom of the planting hole, even when not amending, will result in settling and your new tree will be planted too deep. Which will eventually be the kiss of death. When dealing with a heavy, clay soil, dig a very wide but shallow planting hole - like a big saucer. Rough up the sides so they are not smooth (but not the bottom!). Site your new tree so that the top if the rootball is at least 2-3" above grade (higher won't hurt). Backfill using only the soil you dug out, breaking it up as necessary, and bringing it up in a slight mound so that it just meets (but doesn't cover) the top of the rootball. Add whatever amendments you need or wish to use as a mulch or topdressing over this mound. Lots of plants grow very well in clay - just look at what's growing in the neighborhoods and natural areas around you. Clay soil is much more of an issue for the gardener than it is for the plant, as long as you plant correctly for the soil condition.