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pruning a big branch

9 years ago

I think I should prune a large narrow-crotch branch off my maple, but I'm concerned that it is too large. It is probably between 15-20 percent of the tree and will probably look bad...initially at least. I wonder if I could get some recommendations. I attached a pic.

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Comments (12)

mikebotann
9 years ago
I would cut if off as soon as possible, the heck with 'balance'.
Go up on the branch about a foot and a half, make your facecut, or undercut, and then do your back cut. Then trim the last of the 1' 1/2" off at the trunk. If you cut it off at the trunk first, it will tear off the bark down the trunk below the cut.
I assume you're talking about the branch on the left.....right?
Mike
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
9 years ago
How old is the tree? Has there been any issues with it? I might have recommended removal when the tree was younger and the branch smaller but that appears to be a significant portion to remove now. And if you haven't encountered any problems with that narrow crotch yet, I'd be inclined to leave it alone.

And is that some sort of taping I see around the trunk of the tree? what's up with that?
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Hopefully some of the more experienced will chime in...but these are just small new trees. Last year they were mostly dealing with the shock of transplant. I would be reluctant to take much from any. I would remove any split/competing leaders. I would either remove or head back by 1/3 any branches that seem to have vigor equal to your leader. and thin out the top of the moon glow pear. Other than that let them establish. and worry about removing low/small branches when the trees get big enough to give you something higher up to work with. I don't believe there is any point in heading back short lower branches. or removing all the small twiggy stuff even if you think it will go next year. It will provide energy this season for further growth....so long as they are not competing, crowding or sapping vigor from something you do plan to keep. Take it out later it will still be small enough to heal fast and clean. Trees take time, you can't force all the shape growth and secondary branching you want in the first year or two.
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Comments (11)
No, I don't mind your asking me questions, but I have to warn you that I'm not your best source here, so when you see the more experienced correcting me listen to them. We'll both learn something. "Pencil" describes the size of the wood, with wood at pencil-sized the most useful to us in terms of spur production. But even scaffold branches and tree trunks were pencils once. We train and encourage the first pencil to grow into a trunk, and when it produces a few pencils we train a few of those to be scaffolds, and when those produce pencils we start to manage them for fruit production. You might want to train a watersprout to become a scaffold branch. To do that you bend it over to the near-horizontal and remove its competition- that means cutting off the branch it is replacing. Watersprouts can become productive wood, but vertical growth is slow to form spurs and will point into the heart of the tree where it can't get light and air. Generally better to remove watersprouts- let the energy go where it can be better used. It may feel like you're removing all the growth, but you're not. The tree will respond by putting its energies into the only places left, and that's important to understand. If you allow the tree to dissipate its energy on wayward grow then the important stuff won't get what it needs. In fact, as a general rule you can clip off anything that points straight up, straight down, or into rather than away from the tree. I like the road analogy too; I'm glad to have stolen it from Harvestman :-). Good luck, Mark
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The only suggestion I have heard of regarding particular parts of the plant that respond better to air layering deals with removing 1.5 to 2 times the diameter of the branch and to do this 1-2 feet of the tip of the limb. So the branches should not be too thick, definitely smaller than my fingers! :o) You could do air layering on branches that are pointing away from the main/front of the shrub. Most of my camellias are against the house so I would choose branches that point towards the house so their absence (when cut) is not obvious and the plant still looks fine when looked from the front.
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It is a little late to nip it, seems like it now has apical dominance growing into a whip like plant . Nipping it at this late date will not give newer emerging shoots that would grow into brnaches time to harden off before cold weather. I would personally stake it so when time comes in your zone to protect the branch has less chance to snap. Martin
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sam268
9 years ago
remove the left branch asap,
do you have a pic of the whole tree.
Just remove this major branch this year and than do some other fine pruning the following year to balance it
sightunseen
Original Author
9 years ago
Yes, that left branch. I believe the tree was planted when the house was built in 2004. I've only been here since 2010. The tape was put there in an effort to keep away woodpeckers, which suddenly showed up this winter. How long do you suppose it will take for the tree to balance back out? It should balance back out, right? I'm not at home so I can't take another pic right now.
sam268
9 years ago
It will take 2-3 years to balance it self out. With some additional pruning.
have to see how the whole tree looks to determine.
But I prefer to limb up my maple to about 5-6 feet for clearance.
once they are older, the longer lower branches will have a dropping effect.
I see so many mature maples with limbs touching the ground which their lowest branch was only 3-4 feet high.
Show us a pic after you pruned
sightunseen
Original Author
9 years ago
This is a pic of the whole tree. I'm waiting to get a proper saw. All I have now is a reciprocating.
mikebotann
9 years ago
The tree looks pretty good. I just might leave it alone if I were you.
The branch doesn't stick out like I thought it might. I'm always worried about snow and ice. That's done the most damage to my trees.
I guess it just comes down to a judgement call.
Mike
sam268
9 years ago
It looks pretty now but the tree won't last long without proper pruning.
remove the left branch and make some minor pruning on the right to balance it out
Pick a day which won't have rain the next couple days. Keep the fresh cut area dry for a couple days.
Now is still a good time to do it and give the tree a chance to heal before winter.
sam268
9 years ago
It looks pretty now but the tree won't last long without proper pruning.
remove the left branch and make some minor pruning on the right to balance it out
Pick a day which won't have rain the next couple days. Keep the fresh cut area dry for a couple days.
Now is still a good time to do it and give the tree a chance to heal before winter.
sightunseen
Original Author
9 years ago
Well, I did the deed. Please take a look at this video and help reassure me that I didn't make a terrible mistake:

http://youtu.be/f4HBjEZfnrs

Here is a link that might be useful: branch being pruned
sam268
9 years ago
http://youtu.be/HoI7h70wqKI

You should of watch this video to clean up the stump with out cutting into the branch collar.
mikebotann
9 years ago
If I took that much time to cut a branch, I'd get nothing done. It's not complicated surgery.
As I said above, cut the branch off in one cut, leaving about the length of firewood as a stub. Then cut the stub off with one cut leaving the branch collar. No undercut necessary and no tearing of the bark on the main trunk. Simple, quick, and even an amateur can do it.
Sam, did the cut tear the bark on the trunk?
Mike

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