Cheap lighting would be shop lights from Home Depot or Lowe's. 48". They're easy to hang. As for keeping a dwarf tree alive, that's debatable. Do you mean Oroblanco? If so, it will need full sun and a lot of heat in order to thrive. And you'll never get fruit unless you can give it several months of direct sun and heat every year. They are delicious, and I wished you lived in an area where they grow. I live in a climate where citrus thrives, and have never seen them grown indoors under lights, and wish you good luck. Did you buy it locally, or mail order?

You could probably plant directly outdoors since you live in Florida and don't have to worry about cold weather. Be sure you have enough sun. My garden box was great all summer, but I found out that by October 1st it was totally shaded by my house. To protect seedlings from birds, you can use inverted strawberry baskets. Put a rock on top of each one so it doesn't blow away. My garden is not large enough to invest in row covers. Plant the tallest plants on the north side of your box so they don't shade the other plants. Tomatoes and peppers are in the same plant family, so plan how you can rotate them so they don't grow in the same place each year. I started with dirt mixed with Kellogg's Ammend before I read the book. The addition of peat and vermiculite made the soil much looser. (Don't worry about homeend. He (or she) does that to everyone.) Here is a link that might be useful: My garden blog

Hi, and thank you all for all your suggestions. Sorry it took me so long to respond. Had to switch gears and deal with getting our hardwood floors installed/finished. poolguynj I understand why you might say to go with an above ground pool but that's not really an option for us. We don't actually plan to move but in case we do, like we had in the past, I wanted to make sure that our choices are in line with what buyers might appreciate in terms of safety and maintenance and that we don't go overboard with expensive extras. At the same time we are in an upscale neighborhood so it cant look cheap. wkburt thanks for sharing your experience with the salt systems. I will definitely look into the ozone more. Which exact system do you have? poolweber your post was so helpful. I did what you said and drafted the depth with graph paper it definitely helped us visualize things. Thanks for reassuring us that the automatic cover is the way to go. Which brand do you have? How did choosing to go with an auto cover affect your other choices i.e. heater size, filter, cleaning system, sanitizing system etc? I am planning to meet with some PBs in the next week. Here are our thoughts as of now: Hoping we can afford gunite if not well have to do vinyl probably with graphex walls. 16x36 rectangle with water depth something like 3'-4" to 7-6" (volume I think between 20,000-27,000 gallons depending on exact bottom configuration) Automatic cover with hidden undertrack Deciding between: - Infinity 4000 (pool cover specialists, 7yr warranty on fabric, no problem using with Salt systems) - hydramatic (aquamatic, 7 yr warranty on fabric, hydraulic, net for water to drain out along with pump) - eclipse (coverstar) - Save-T 3 (big RED) (coverpools, 5 yr warranty on fabric) Large baja shelf/tanning ledge extending 4 or 5ft into the pool as first step with 6-7" of water. Not sure if we can have it slope from 1" to 6" (like a beach entry) would that work with a cover? Also not sure how we can configure it - whether to do it the whole width of the pool with steps after or whether we can have it in the middle with steps on either side. (That would mean that in the middle the depth would drop from 6" to 3'-4") Cartridge filter: pentair clean & clear plus 520 or jandy CL 580 Cleaner: still deciding between regular and robotic. Considering: The pool cleaner (by Poolvergnuegen), Polaris 280, Pentair Legend, Hayward Pool Vac Ultra vs. aquabot turbo, dolhin, tigershark, blue diamond Heater: As much as I would like to do a heat pump (read good reviews on Aquacal Super Quiet) not sure if there will much difference in savings with having the auto cover. Also what is the verdict on low nox? Looking at: Pentair MasterTemp 400 Jandy LXi 400 RayPak/Rheam/Ruud digital (Copper vs Cupro nickel vs. Asme -which one would you do?) Pump: Pentair intelliflo 4 speed VS vs. VS+SVRS vs. Variable speed VF Pentair 2speed whisperflo what hp? Sanitation still up in the air: Which actual ozone/other system do you recommend? Not sure if we should look at automation. Would love to have some water features. Not sure if there are any that are low cost/big impact i.e. Deck jets. Inexpensive ways to light the pool with led Lights? Which colored pool finishes to look at if we go with gunite that are relatively low cost and low maintenance (i.e no frequent acid washes)? Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

Just off the top of my head, I would probably move the table into the flex room right now and put your piano front and center in the great room. Make your piano the star in the room. Use the flex room as your dining room since you don't use it that often. Then I'd probably put a prep sink on the island with your cooktop centered as you had it. I'd move the ovens down to the left side and put the cleanup sink on the right with the dw to the right of the sink. You don't need a window over a cleanup sink as you spend maybe 10 minutes a day cleaning up. Put a pretty shelf or a dish rack or a pretty tile arrangement over the cleanup sink. I'd make the laundry room into one long room and move the W/D against the outside wall. You could also just enclose it with pocket doors and have the mudroom/laundry as one large room. I'd ditch the pantry sink and just have the pantry as one large pantry/butler's pantry. You have room to make the guest room larger. I did so in the plan. Yes it's not equal but you'll never notice it when you're actually walking into the room. Trust me on that. You don't view your space from the ceiling. That automatically narrows the foyer and since the door opens against the guest room, that too will help you not see that it's not "equal".