"Any ideas on maybe a three season plant that could be used to add some structure to the beds" Pat_tea, I don't know what zone you are in but it's likely warmer than my zone 3. I have a curved path through a perennial bed and have used Dusty Miller with Munstead Lavender behind and between on one side of the path and the Dusty Miller with perennial flax on the other side. I'd have used all lavender but the flax is hardier and I may have to replace all the lavender with flax later if some don't survive the winter. I've been quite pleased with this and would post pics except I've been too busy gardening this year to deal with the pics I've taken. The Dusty Miller is not successfully perennial here but certainly looks very good for 3 seasons. Might be perennial in your zone. Perennial flax is really only 2 seasons as needs deadheading in August otherwise one has a million of them. Lavender is still looking reasonably good here and I've been lucky with it as it's not reliably hardy in this zone. Another plant I like along pathways is Walkers Low Catmint. I first saw this on Freda's blog and loved it. See the link below and other catmint links there. I've propagated my WL but still don't have enough plants to edge the path. Will take more slips in the spring to make more plants and eventually may do the same as Freda. OK, back to the original question as to how to place plants evenly on both sides. What I did was to measure to find the center of each side of the path. My path curves so these are not equal measurements. Then I found the middle point of each side and marked it. Then I took a stake which was approximately the distance I wanted the plants spaced which was *about* 18" and marked out from the center. I then fiddled with it until it worked out fairly well at each end. I'm not a perfectionist in my garden so close enough WAS close enough. This particular perennial bed is somewhat raised from the lawn so I couldn't go too close to the end of the path but IMO it looks good. Hope that helps. :) Here is a link that might be useful: Have I Told You Lately That I Love Catmint?

Of course I'd like Siloam Baby Talk, I think you and I are hopelessly hooked on daylilies. I've never had an addiction but if I've got to have an addiction this is the best one to have :) The one I dug up is Bonanza, would you like one? I only have one left. The rest are promised to some of the people at the swap this Saturday. Betsy, don't worry I'm going to divide the other clump this spring to thin it out so you'll still get your Bonnaza.

Ok. Next year, hopefully, is my first year of not buying plants, because I couldn't get the one's I wanted this year. I live in a 'Flyover' area so my resources are limited. I bought the best resource book I knew of, and I'm following their directions. I'm Midwestern and hot foods do not appeal to me. I garden mostly by the rules that I was taught by my grandmother in the back yard garden. I am a Master Gardener who learns something new about growing (and sometimes killing things) all the time, and tries to share it. This isn't a competition. I'm just trying to help. Peace. Blue Cat.

Florists roses are grown in a greenhouse. They are then cut into a bundle , packaged and shipped to a nursery or a florist As you can see they start off in a different way then a gardeners rose. When they get to the florist, they are cut back and placed in a cooler. They may be in the cooler for a week, until someone buys them or a design is made. More handling for the poor rose. Finally when a customers gets the roses, they have gone through a lot. That is usually the main reason florists roses don't last a long time in the warmth of the house. They also don't have a fragrance because the petals are bred much thicker than any of the garden types so the roses can stand all the handling and packaging they go through. So to root a florist rose, it will be easier if the roe has been a vigorous grower. If it was a weaker grower, then it is not your fault it won't make roots. Take about 5 cuts and do them all in a different way. Try rooting in florist oasis, potatoes, plain vermiculite etc Place each cutting in a large clear pop bottle to keep it moist.This helps to see if you are getting a fungus or if the roots are starting. When you see roots starting unscrew the top. Let's see if this works. https://buffalo-niagaragardening.com/2013/10/15/grow-rose-bush-from-wedding-bouquet-or-use-any-roses-you-get-from-the-florist/