Katrina, I am not sure to what depth you will need to go. You might get a better, more directed response if you post as a separate question - with all the tree mavins around, someone must know how deep. My first thought is to say at least 2', but whether or not you need to go deeper? I dunno, although my inclination is to say not, and that 2' may even be overkill - most feeder roots are in the top 12-15" of the soil, after all. And I can't say whether a solid barrier, like the heavy plastic used for bamboo, or a compost or mulch-filled trench, that you dig into on a monthly basis to cut off any new roots, would be the best option. Something else altogether might prove better. I could see using the metal panels for roofing, but there would be the gap where they overlapped, so a single roll of really heavy plastic might be best, or combining the two, for more certainty.... If you cut back the root system, then the tree won't have the reserves to grow replacements for the limbs you cut off as quickly or as fully. I think whether you do it now, or wait 'til fall is somewhat irrelevant - I would probably do it as you have time, once you have decided on a method. One reason to wait, though, would be if you are going to have heavy equipment come into your front yard, and if it might damage the barrier, whatever you do decide on. For that reason, doing both together, or the barrier after the tree trimming, might be the easier option. I don't know what the boundary between the properties looks like, and can't remember the photos from the earlier posting, so may be out of line - but could you "cede" a few feet on your side of the line to the tree roots, just mulching it? It would make it clear to your neighbor that your aren't really trying to kill his tree. (Well, maybe you ARE, but not too obviously!!) It would mean you can't or don't plant there, but it might not be too big an area, where not much would grow anyway, and would make it clear that you are "respecting" his boundaries. I don't know your relationship with this neighbor, but I would always prefer to err on the side on conciliation, until I can't any longer, of course....

Thanks Jim! Sorry I didnt see your response. I notice that we both reply to messages at the same time pretty often, haha. We got about 2 days in the mid 90s already this year (and more than our fair share of cool weather), but I'm hoping that once (if) the 80s every get consistent the P. geayi will finally flush! I wanted some blooms this year! I agree, Ensetes are definitely one of the fastest growing bananas and I think part of the reason for their fast growth is their cool tolerance which gets them to start growing in the spring when days are only comfortable and not opressively hot. The sabas should get some good growth in with the warmer weather this weekend and hopefully warm weather will be permanent soon! -Alex

I am caught between 2 gardening paradigms, doing neither particularly well. I do design and build for customers, but for my personal pleasure, this represents the purest tedium. The idea of selecting plants which look well together and completes an image is deeply satisfying for that growing season and then, having done that, seen this, grown such and such, I am bored. Too many plants, too little time. From one year to the next, the greenhouse, the flagstones, the coping, the chairs and tables are filled with pots and trays of more new seedlings. From a distance, it looks lush and colourful, but obviously, without a shred of artful placing because at heart, I am primarily a grower of plants, but along with the inevitable lack of space, it also means that I rarely get to post photos of my gardens since there are always stray pots, tools, hoses and other detritus littering the place...and this also extends to the allotment. A plant barely reaches maturity before it is removed because there are other interesting plants which need the space...so not a garden but a collection of plants, often wildly assorted, unrelated and inappropriate.Obviously, I cannot change every part every year (although I try) so there are some which escape the cull - some of which are very long lived indeed, but I have come to terms with never having a beautiful, harmonious and aesthetically pleasing garden, but I do get to see, feel, touch, sniff and even eat, a considerable number of fascinating plants...and as an aside, I also get to schmooze with many other gardeners, nursery owners and plants people because we are all at it - swapping, scrounging, passing round. I have already got some trades lined up for the aristolochia fimbriata sent to me by Mara. A result of lack of space has encouraged me to throw spare seeds around the 'hood, even sneakily planting extras in municipal beds - I am getting massive amusement from seeing my neighboourhood populated by althea cannabina - a romping giant of a plant which seeds in cracks and gaps, the little mexican daisy (everywhere), welsh poppies and a rather astonishing blue iochroma (which looks exotic and tropicalesque but is a tough and vigorous survivor (and another sidewalk and crevice inhabitant).

I agree with frost cracks. Just because you can see the outer bark is present over the entire wound. Which happens during cold weather when sun warms the cambium layer then re-freezes suddenly, essentially killing the live tissue in that area. Deer rubs typically scrape through the outer bark with bony horns, exposing and damaging the cambium and sapwood underneath, cutting off circulation between the roots and the top. This does not appear, in this case, to be the problem And the tree will heal itself as long is there is less than 50% of the circumference damaged. That doesn't mean rot may or may not start up in the heart wood. It's always a possibility. The more damage done the longer the recovery time.