Asiatic lilies do pretty good in the desert. Probably even better in Tucson than here! They like rich, sandy soil, morning sun and afternoon shade, and being kept slightly on the dry side during their late summer-early fall dormancy.

Sometime in the next month or two, they should be coming out of dormancy, with new shoots busting out of the ground like asparagas spears on steroids. When that happens, gradually increase watering to about once a week or so (some variation according to the weather and soil type). Also feed lightly once a month while the leaves are green. Flower buds, if any, will probably already be showing at the stem tips once they get up about 8-12 inches tall. Note that the chance of flowers depends on how the plant was treated the previous year, so you may have to wait until 2011 for good bloom.

Daylilies form their flower buds after they come out of dormancy, so they will respond to good feeding and watering with improved bloom this year (unlike true lilies). Reduce watering on daylilies during their winter dormant period, less reduction on evergreen varieties.

Good luck!
Kevin : )

Lilies are not really well-adapted to a subtropical climate, which is what a zone 12 is :-) They need a period of cool temperatures for vernalization, which encourages the development of flowers - without this, they may persist for a period of time but never really flower successfully.

To achieve this, you will need to provide at least a 6 week period of time during your winter with temperatures not above 40F. Chilling the unplanted bulbs in a refrigerator (with no other fruits or vegetables) is the easiest way to accommodate this very necessary chill period. I'd suggest digging the bulbs in your late fall after the foliage has declined, clean them carefully, pack them in just barely moist sawdust or peat moss and place in the frig. After the 6 weeks, you should be able to plant them in the garden or in containers and they will bloom anytime from late spring to late summer, depending on type. You will need to repeat this process each year. Many growers of bulbs in warmer climate zones follow this process for all manner of cooler climate bulbs.

This is the same thing for most other perennials that originate from temperate climates. They all need a period of dormancy/vernalization that typically corresponds with the cold of winter in the northern hemisphere. Without it, they will live for a number of years but may never flower very well and will generally decline and eventually peter out and die. It's a little like going without sleep for humans - you can endure it for awhile but you will not be performing up to snuff and if lasts long enough, it can kill you.

Oops! Chom, my face is turning red! I read zone 12, and I automatically assumed (who knows why) that you lived in Sunset zone 12, which equals USDA Zone 8b. Mea culpa!

Kevin : \

Thanks a ton for your replies.
Should I stop watering the lilies in October? I kept watering them every 3 days but their leaves never became brown.
I have football lily. I stop watering them during the months Nov to Feb. I restart the watering in Mid May and the older bulbs do flower in Apr.
Do you think I should do the same with Asiatic lilies (algarve and lollipop)?

Should I pack them in an airtight ziplock bags? Or
should I put some holes in that bag?