Depends on the rock. Granite dust is acidic. But you would have to add a lot of it to change the soil pH. If your soil is loam with 5% organic matter and the remainder composed of clay, silt and sand minerals, then plants will do very well with a pH of 7.0. The plants might do marginally better if the pH was 6.0. They might do marginally worse of the pH was 8.0. But there are other factors - fertilizer, rain, sunshine, weed competition. You just need to grow stuff and enjoy it and not get all wraped up in ideal conditions. Nobody has ideal conditions. You are going to make mistakes, but that's how you learn. I have been growing plants for more years than I want to admit and I am still screwing up. So just go out there and get on with it and don't worry about ideal soil pH. Here is a link that might be useful: Soil

Thanks for the help Cole_Robbie, they died on me, so I will be starting over with a new organic seed batch I bought instead of the seeds I used last time, which were just seeds I collected from some store bought orange and yellow bells I got from a local health food store. I knew about using hydrogen peroxide to clean my hydroton, but I didn't know you could use a weak solution in a spray. Will be cleaning my entire system this week to prevent any issues in the new crop. I forgot to include my light source. My systems are in one of my spare rooms with a big picture window. I have my tomatos in front of the window(West facing) now because they are too large to put under my lights which are 100w SFL's (1750 lumens per bulb) which I have all my peppers growing under. NFT system just has 4 - 2 bulb 40w shop lights that it uses.

Something I wrote about silicon as it relates to plants a few years ago: "About Pro-TeKt: On its face it looks primarily like a potassium (K) supplement, but the K it contains mostly adds a degree of versatility to your fertilizer program if you're already supplying nutrients in an appropriate ratio. Remember that supplying an excess of any single nutrient can be as bad as a deficiency, so it's a valuable asset to have a pretty good idea of what you're supplying and when your plants will get it. 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers (ratios are different than NPK %s. 24-8-16, 12-4-8, and 9-3-6 are all 3:1:2 RATIOS) come closest to supplying nutrients in the ratio at which plants actually use them. By supplementing K with 0-0-3 Pro-Tekt, you can EFFECTIVELY reduce N applications & not worry about P or K deficiencies. There is more than enough P in 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers (plants use on average 6X more N than P) to prevent a deficiency of P, and the K is covered by the 0-0-3, which also provides silicon. Silicon (Si) is Pro-TeKt's most valuable asset. A high % of plants absorb additional Si when it is available. Plants that test higher in Si concentrations in shoots show a more rapid rate of increase in (dry) mass. Since an increase in mass is the true measure of growth, we can say the large % of plants that respond to increased availability of Si simply grow better. While how Si affects plant metabolism escapes complete understanding, we know it improves growth, increases metabolic rates, and increases the chlorophyll content of leaves. Very important is that it increases the tolerance to temperature extremes on both ends, as well as drought. Added Si in cell walls structurally protects plants against pathogens and insects by making cell walls stronger. One of the greater benefits of available Si is it can balance elemental nutrients in tissues because of its suppressive effects on Al, Mn and Na and because it acts to mediate the uptake of P, Mg, K, Fe, as well as the minors Cu and Zn. I'd like to mention that the effects of silicon on plants is documented scientifically, so my offering isn't anecdotal, even though it may seem that I'm promoting the use of Si as if it might be the magic potion guaranteed to turn the struggling grower into a plant magician, like so many other super elixirs promise. It won't do that, but it does strengthen plants in ways noted above, and as also noted adds versatility to your nutritional supplementation program if applied properly. Though I think I'm a pretty critical observer, I'll qualify the following observation as being anecdotal, even though it squares with science. I have noticed a difference in my plants since I started to use it about 10 years ago. The areas where I notice most improvement are, improved resistance to heat, obviously stronger & more upright foliage, and a considerable reduction in the incidence of both diseases and infestations. Al

I wish I had answers for you, but it can be really hard to fix a soil problem while plants are actively growing. If you have a nutritional issue, those can be fixed sometimes with plants actively grown in the ground, generally by using a water soluble fertilizer (either organic or synthetic, depending on what sort of problem is showing up). pH issues are more of a slower-fix, unless you use sulfur pre-planting during soil prep time, which I sometimes do. I would like to point out that my natural soil pH before I amend the soil is 8.2 to 8.3 and I am happy if I can even keep it at 7 to 7.5 after copious amounts of amending. The problem is worse in a year when I have to irrigate a lot because our water co-op gets is water from wells and that water tests about as high in pH as my soil. It is less of a problem when rain is watering the garden for me. With soil in that range, I still get tons and tons of tomatoes, so I am not sure how much of your tomato plant problem is related to soil pH. Would your plants and mine be happier in a soil pH of 6.8 to 7.0? Probably, but I don't think having the soil in that range is strictly required either. We have to work with what we've got. I think it more likely is related to the fact that we have had a lot of wet weather and that it only takes about 15 minutes (or less) of moisture on the leaves to start fungal diseases growing and spreading once the fungi pop up in the garden. Fungal diseases are running rampant in my garden after the plants had heavy rain, fog, dew, mist, drizzle, etc. wetting their leaves for a good 3 or 4 weeks nonstop. Even though I used a fungicide to slow down the spread of the disease, it didn't slow it down enough. Now spider mites are hitting in incredibly high numbers. They probably are not yet the worst I've ever seen, but they are the worst I've seen this early in the season. Between the spider mites and fungal issues, I would like to throw myself down on the ground, kick and scream and have a good old-fashioned temper tantrum. The change in the once-beautiful tomato plants in just a couple of weeks' time, and especially in the last week, makes me want to cry. But, my rule is that there's no crying in gardening, unless I get bitten by a scorpion or a bumble bee. So, I just try to fight the good fight once fungal issues rear their ugly heads. Honestly, once the fungi arrive in a very wet year, I start hoping and praying the next year will be a drought year so that I don't have to deal with these issues in next year's garden. Here's the best remedy for fungal infections of tomato plants. 1) Strip off all the infected foliage and dispose of it far away from the garden. Remove as much as you can while still leaving enough foliage to keep the existing fruit from sun-scalding. 2) Spray the plants with the fungicide of your choice, always following label directions. Spray on a 7 to 10 day schedule, alternating the use of at least 2 different fungicides to prevent tolerance/resistant issues from developing. I find Daconil works well overall up to a point, but is most effective if sprayed from the very first day the plants go into the garden. If you wait until disease has developed to start using fungicide, the disease doesn't go away. You don't cure it. You just try to slow down its rate of spread. I like to alternate Daconil with copper because copper is better on slowing the growth of some plant diseases, like Septoria Leaf Spot. 3) Be sure you have mulch everywhere, including in pathways adjacent to the tomato plants, to avoid having soil splash carrying disease microorganisms up onto the plants. 4) Don't handle tomato foliage while it is wet if you can avoid doing so. (When we are perpetually wet like we were for several weeks in May/early June, this rule is impossible to follow because the plants always are wet. 5) Feed the plants well to see if you can force them to put on enough new foliage quickly enough to outgrow the diseases. This can work surprisingly well some years but if spider mites are involved, it doesn't work because they move to the new, fresh leaves very quickly. 6) Be prepared to yank out the plants if they keep going downhill due to disease or persistent pest issues like spider mites. There is a degree of wisdom involved in knowing when the battle you're fighting is worth fighting versus knowing that sometimes it is better to just pull the plants out and put in fresh plants for fall. If you go the route of putting in fresh plants for fall, you can add amendments to the soil before you plant, and then be sure to spray the new plants preventively with a protectant fungicide from Day 1. 7) Sometimes you can prevent some foliar diseases by spraying your plants weekly with compost tea (NOT manure tea) or Garrett Juice. I had a lot of luck with that for several years, but I hate spraying this stuff on plant foliage that is prone to get diseases when wet! It just seems wrong. I haven't used compost tea or Garrett Juice the last few years, but might go back to using them (from day one of planting out) next year to see if they help, or if I was just lucky in the years I did this. 8) Sometimes you can avoid some disease problems by planting varieties developed to have tolerance of/resistance to some of the more common foliar diseases. However, even the handful of varieties that supposedly have Early Blight resistance seem to get it just as bad in my garden as other varieties that have no known resistance, so I am not sure if this really helps if the problem is either Early Blight or Septoria Leaf Spot. It might help if Alternaria canker is a persistent problem in your garden. 9) For better health on the next go round, try using Actinovate or something similar at planting time. To some extent, I have learned that in wet years, the fungal diseases are just going to show up no matter what I do, so I try not to overreact when it happens. I have noticed it always shows up at the same time the plants are carrying a very heavy load of fruit and feel like, to some degree, the diseases exploit the fact that the tomato plants' focus at that time is on enlarging and ripening fruit, not on fighting diseases. This acceptance means that you are willing to tolerate ugly tomato plans for a few more weeks in order to harvest the fruit already on them, but it also means that you know at some point you will just need to remove those horrible-looking plants and put in new fresh ones. I usually do that at the end of June. Right now, my plants have tons of fruit and if they never set another fruit, I'll be happy with what is already on the plants. I just hope to keep the plants alive long enough for that fruit to mature. When I remove diseased plants, I don't do it wholesale. I remove the worst-looking ones first as soon as their main harvest period is over, and I leave the best-looking ones. Often, once I remove the worst-looking ones, I can baby along the best-looking ones and sometimes, around mid-July, I notice they are putting out more new foliage and looking better, like they have turned a corner in the disease battle and will recover. That happened last year (when we had 78+" of rain, much or which fell in May, June and earliest July), and those plants set fruit all summer and well into fall. I am sure you know that it is helpful to grow your tomatoes in a new spot each year where tomatoes weren't grown the year before, but this is not necessarily a practical solution for a home gardener who only had so much space available in the first place. The best thing you can do is amend the soil with lots of compost annually to help the plants be as healthy as possible when diseases do pop up. Finally, I'd get a real soil test done at OSU before next year rolls around to ensure there is not some sort of nutritional issue, and I'd amend my soil as they recommend. That way you aren't trying to second-guess what is wrong or to add this or add that without knowing for sure that it is needed. Those little soil test kits can give incorrect results. Some brands of them are more accurate than other brands, but I would't trust my garden to one when a real soil test is not very expensive through a lab like OSU's soil lab. There are no magic solutions when it comes to dealing with tomato foliage diseases. They are rampant, they are worldwide, the fungal ones spread spores through the air, and everyone will have them eventually, though often a new gardener might not have them the first few years because the diseases just haven't found them yet. I've long wondered if it would be worthwhile to put up a big hoop house with only a roof and no side walls. Open side walls would allow good air flow, and a roof would keep a lot of the moisture off the plants. It is worth pondering, and might be worth doing. I'm sorry I don't have any short answers or quick fixes on this issue. It is a problem that plagues my garden just as much as it plagues anyone else's garden, and likely it is worse for me than for some folks, because between the spring crops and the fall crops, I literally grow tomatoes in almost 100% of my garden every year, so I couldn't rotate if I wanted to, at least not while I continue to grow 100 plants or more per season. For what it is worth, I am seeing Early Blight on some of the native solanum plants in the pastures, so it is everywhere...not just in your garden or mine. When all else fails, hope for drought. In a drought year, as long as I water with drip irrigation or soaker hoses, my plants stay relatively disease-free. Moisture on the ground is good, moisture falling from the air and landing on tomato foliage is bad. Good luck, Dawn