Hmmmm. The guaranteed analysis of the primary macronutrients (NPK) in Eleanor's is Analysis: 0.15 - 0.85 - 0.55 This is less than 1% of ANY of the majors. 1/8 of 1% N, 7/8 of 1% P, 1/2 of 1% K. This is EXTREMELY low in fertility. Since I cannot find the rest of the analysis, I'm going to guess the rest of the nutrients are probably nonexistent or nearly so. Did you find anything to show the % of Ca, Mg, and the minor elements. I'm interested in just how much of these elements it contains. Would you share your source of information, please? Joel - your answer is pretty complicated, but I'll try to explain it in as easy to understand terms as I can. I have to start with where the N comes from in fertilizers, because of its effect on what can be used as a Ca source. There are plenty of sources of water-soluble nitrogen, some of which only supply nitrogen - like either urea or ammonium nitrate. For the rest of the nutrients, though, there are far fewer choices. In fact, the only source of Ca for water-soluble fertilizers is calcium nitrate. There is also typically only one source of potassium, potassium nitrate. Magnesium is supplied either as magnesium nitrate or sulfate. Because there are such limitations in the number of fertilizer salts that can be used to blend various fertilizers, the ratio of the 5 macronutrients has a direct affect on the percent ammoniacal nitrogen in the fertilizer. To give an example, fertilizers that have good amounts of calcium tend to also be high in nitrate, because (noted above) calcium nitrate is the only water-soluble source of calcium. Fertilizers that are high in phosphorus are often also high in ammonium because phosphorus is usually supplied as monoammonium phosphate. Certain fertilizers generally cannot be mixed at high concentrations. Fertilizer compounds containing sulfate, (for example magnesium sulfate), are not compatible in solution with calcium nitrate because a reaction occurs where insoluble calcium sulfate (gypsum) will form as a precipitate (solid). If a blended fertilizer contains both calcium and magnesium, then the sources have to be calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate. Similarly, calcium nitrate and monoammonium phosphate cannot be mixed in the same concentrated solution because insoluble calcium phosphate will form as a precipitate. Sorry, but you asked. ;o) The short version is that the chemicals used in soluble fertilizers tend to cause Ca to precipitate (fall out) of solution as an insoluble solid where is if no value to the plant, so why include it? A few fertilizers, like Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 DO contain good amounts of Ca and Mg in the proper proportions. It should be an excellent fertilizer for houseplants. Al

BER relates more to consistent moisture levels than it does to calcium. The problem does manifest itself as a calcium deficiency, but the ultimate cause is moisture inconsistency. The cal nitrate is mostly just a way to apply nitrogen. The calcium in it can help in some ways, but it won't cure your BER by itself. Experiment with your watering frequency, or maybe try setting your containers in a shallow saucer of water so they never dry out completely. If you are drilling drainage holes in a container like a bucket, make them about 2-3 inches from the bottom on the sides. That will give the plant a moisture reservoir so that it never completely dries out.

Certain precautions supposedly help alleviate the phosphorus deficienncy [sic] problem. Honestly it isn't something you can eliminate and it isn't something to worry about either. It's not a deficiency so much as an uptake problem, it's normal for many varieties, it is common (especially so when plants are started way too early ), it disappears (unpurples) all on its own as the plant matures. This is not to say you shouldn't maintain your fertility and pH as Timmy said. The rest takes care of itself. but I am not sure when BER will show As to the calcium uptake, again it fixes itself as the plant adapts and matures. You can see it quite early on in the fruit - a darker discoloration on the bloom end of the fruit while it is still quite small. You can't "cure" or prevent it. The plant does that for itself. I assume all these plants will eventually be planted outside in the garden? If so, then depending on the weather when you transplant, you may experience some early BER regardless of what you do. But it will go away once the weather stabilizes - assuming sufficient sunlight and that your soil bed is balanced and well-prepared. And if you are transplanting older seedlings (ones that were started way too early ;) then you may see more of it. Old transplants simply can't adapt nearly as quickly or as well as those of proper age and size come transplant time. So, bottom line, I think the "cure" for all your concerns is to quit starting your plants so far in advance. ;) Dave

I buy 25kg sacks which is cheaper in the long run if you use a lot of different nute formulas.. The main ones are calcinit, krista k-plus, krista mkp, krista mgs and krista sop. I would keep the clay pebbles seperate. I use hydroton for hot peppers (flood and drain), some have been in the same containers for 5 years without any issues. I like to start things in coco, roots love it and you can transplant into any system including aeroponics, high pressure not the pond pump/lawn sprayer variety, which i use mainly for tomatoes, .. I use twin cavity air inflated pillows similar to the Eden Project to cover my dome. The poly is over 6 years old and still going strong. Each panel can be replaced seperately which cuts the time and cost as the outside panels will wear out before the inside ones. You`ll find the biggest killer of poly is from flapping caused by the wind, especially in the summer when the sun`s heat loosens it up. For heating and cooling i have a 1000cfm fan and 60m of drainage tube buried 1.2m deep in 30 tonnes of clay soil beneath the dome floor. It keeps the dome warm in winter and cool in the summer. Installing vertical perimeter insulation (XPS, styrofoam) to stop heat escaping into the surrounding cold ground is something to consider if its not already in place.