Without sending a leaf sample to a lab, itÂs tough to determine deficiencies by just looking at the leaf.

Make sure your fertility is up to par both major and minor elements and a good pH.

As far as starting too early, back up 6 weeks from your set out date on the calendar for your seed date.

Starting too early can too often be more of a burden than a plus.

I have never read it anywhere but I swear that in order for a tomato plant to thrive, it must grow slowly and steadily without being held back at any stage. This is why it is so important to abide by the 6 week rule.

I've seen many an early planting having been over hardened and held back only to be passed in growth, vigor and fruit set by a younger smaller plant that was seeded much later.

Not to mention, when disease threatens, it tends to hit the older, earlier seeded plants first.

Certain precautions supposedly help alleviate the phosphorus deficienncy [sic] problem.

Honestly it isn't something you can eliminate and it isn't something to worry about either. It's not a deficiency so much as an uptake problem, it's normal for many varieties, it is common (especially so when plants are started way too early ), it disappears (unpurples) all on its own as the plant matures. This is not to say you shouldn't maintain your fertility and pH as Timmy said. The rest takes care of itself.

but I am not sure when BER will show

As to the calcium uptake, again it fixes itself as the plant adapts and matures. You can see it quite early on in the fruit - a darker discoloration on the bloom end of the fruit while it is still quite small. You can't "cure" or prevent it. The plant does that for itself.

I assume all these plants will eventually be planted outside in the garden? If so, then depending on the weather when you transplant, you may experience some early BER regardless of what you do. But it will go away once the weather stabilizes - assuming sufficient sunlight and that your soil bed is balanced and well-prepared. And if you are transplanting older seedlings (ones that were started way too early ;) then you may see more of it. Old transplants simply can't adapt nearly as quickly or as well as those of proper age and size come transplant time.

So, bottom line, I think the "cure" for all your concerns is to quit starting your plants so far in advance. ;)

Dave

Provide bottom heat with a mild dose of fertilizer that has P and you shouldn't have any problems.

Purpling usually fades after fertilizing. You should generally note healthier looking plants.

With a seedling, if calcium was defn you likely wouldnt get any growing point. It would shrivel and turn brown. In older plants setting fruit calcium will be defn or really "unavailable" way before BER shows up. You can have adequete calcium present but it could be unavailable to the plants for environmental reasons.

For seedlings provide heat and some fertilizer and these should be non-issues. Later once in the ground/container keep the soil evenly moist (mulch and water deep) and that will help prevent BER. If you are still paranoid about having enough caclium I would recoomend fertilizing with some kind of water soulble fertilizer. Adding lime/gypsum is ok as long as you do it the season before (in fall) so that it has time to become available.

I wouldn't rely on eggshells for this season but they are fine to add to the soil or compost for the long run.

I started mine way way early also. I have some in gallon milk jugs that have been living outside for the last week. They really took off with the full sun and a little fertilizer. I did hold them back though during the first couple months. I think I started the seeds around Christmas believe it or not. I sure hope I can get some yield out of them.
I have some others I started in the second week of January. I'm curious if they end up out producing the ones I started earlier. They'll all go in the ground around the third week of March.

Pete

@all:
thanks again for all the great info.
I try to mimic the conditions the plants will transfered to
in a few weeks to a mnth. Thats pretty cold at night.

for P was using rock phosphate. For calcium, bone meal and
other natural slow release types added to aged compost.

@pete:
Nice work. I started some of mine Dec 22.
I'm searching for a way to get 85 day tomatos to mature here in zone 7-ish seattle-ish.
Last year I started 'em Feb 15 with some rather monstrously huge plants as a result. So i figured Dec 22 would be even more crazy.
I am usinng paper milk cartons. When they plant gets too tall, I slap another carton over the top for indeterminates,
or add carton to the bottom for determinates. Got 'em stacked about 3 high right now.

@digdirt
The baby tomates I have show no evidence of discoloration at
about half golf ball size. All the blooms look healthy and strongly yellow and no wilt. Thanks for the tips.
The starting way way too early is just a fun experiment.
Makes the house smell nice. And if it fails, I still have enough time for normal starting procedures.