I planted 4 hydrangeas at my old place about 7 years ago. They never bloomed. I have 2 nikko blues, a lace cap and another that was gave to me (I'm not sure what it is). We still own that property so I dug 3 of them up and brought them to the new house early this spring. At the old place I had them planted in a front bed and they stayed damp all the time (it was a trailer with no guttering), they even had mossy looking stuff growing around them. Here, I cut all the dead off of them and put them in a nice shady spot and they have done great. I haven't put any fertilizer on them, just water. One is blooming now, a nice deep purply blue and the other two have gotten really nice big leaves but no blooms. The lace cap has white edges on one side of the plant but the other is side is all green. Any pointers on what I need to do with it? I still have the one at the rental place I'm wanting to get but it's overgrown with an old rambling rose and it's so hot right now I guess I'll wait until fall to get it. My mom always told me about/used the rusty nail trick too. Is it acid that gives the blue color and alkaline that gives the pink color or the other way around? I can't remember. An old neighbor I had used to put pennies in her soil too but I can't remember why.

Hi Erica, I'm thinking it was a combination of more fertilizer (which they don't need the first year), the insecticide spray, and the sun! Is it possible that he tender leaves did not like the spray on them and burned in the sun! You may have to cut them back and wait for new growth, but no more bug spray and limit the sun until they get used to it. New plants in pots look great when you buy them but they don't acclimate themselves to the elements for a while. I have a bed of 6 hydrangeas in shade most of the day but they get 2/3 hours of sun in early afternoon and this year we added 3 new plants to the planter and the flowers burned to a crisp on the new ones and the older ones that had been in the ground for a year or so sailed through the heat and sun with no problems! The temps went up to low to mid 90's for several days, and all the hydrangeas in my yard wilted from the heat but the flowers perked up in the evening. Don't be afraid to prune them back if necessary, it will thicken the plant for you and you should still get some blooms later on the remontant types. Good Luck! Donna

I'm up in Bailey's neightborhood and have used Endless Summer in my own garden and several clients gardens. I lost a few the first year they came out but since they've all done well and bloomed subsequent years. It seems I only get one good flush in mid summer, I think the early crop is killed off over winter and then there isn't enough time to ripen a fall flush. None get chemical fertilizer but all are in shady woodsy gardens with fertile soil. I can't really think what would be different about the upper midwest. More heat then the east coast? Cooler evenings? Blushing Bride is supposed a better reblooming - time will tell. BTW my understanding is the original Endless Summer was purchased a forced plant for a Mother's Day gift and planted in a garden where it bloomed happily for years until it came to the attention of someone who worked at Bailey's Ted

@luis_pr Thank you so very much for the info! I have seen people plant ES on the ground in the spring and dig up and put in a pot and bring inside for the winter. For me, it is almost not possible. 1, the plants are very big now, 3 ft wide and tall, as I bought the 4 gallon ones in the spring. oh well. 2, too much trouble for me and too much shock for the plant. 3, i dont have indoor space and big enough window to give them the light to keep them happy insdie. Artificial light is too much set up again. SO after some search, i will be use the cardboard box method, i think. Here are tentative steps: please help me better this process if something wrong in the procedure lol. Zone 3/4, Edmonton 1) After tree leaves fall, collect leaves in plastic bags. 2) When ES hydrangea leaves are brown and dried, covered them with a cardboard box, fill in dried leaves. 3) Tape the top of the cardboard box, to seal. 4) Secure the bottom with rocks or garden staples. 5) Wrap the box with brown burlap. 6) Wrap again the box with black landscape fabric, to absorb warmth from the sun. 7) Sit for the winter to be over, hopefully lots of snow cover. 8) Remove protection around last spring frost, on May 15 ish. 9) If Frost come back after the fact. using white drop cloth for temporary cover. I also attached a pic of my blue ES (the original) in my yard this year. Isn't this blue out of this world!