Here in Texas we have a great big grasshopper problem. They were eating our new orchard trees! We tried two things. First we tried Nolo Bait, which is non-toxic to animals, bees and birds. It would have worked if we hadn't been surrounded by several acres of grasshopper infested pasture. Nolo Bait is definitely for the urban gardener. Next we draped the trees (and some rose bushes and our eggplants) with two thicknesses of deer netting. That worked! We used two thicknesses because, as you stated about the Easy Gardener netting, the holes would have admitted the 'hoppers. Deer netting is available at Tractor Supply, where we got ours, or at many feed stores, and probably on-line, also. It's cheap, and we plan to reuse the netting from this year. It's not terribly convenient to have to lift the netting to harvest, but it sure beats having the harvest eaten by 'hoppers.

Welcome to lawn care...and stop watering!! You are killing your lawn with kindness. I'll explain. Look carefully at this picture. See how the spot forms an oval right in the middle of the drainage swale? What you have is standing water right there that has contributed to a fungal disease. I'm going to make the wild assertion that all your dead grass is due to a fungal disease simply because you are watering wrong. St Augustine grass, especially in Houston and especially this time of year, only needs to be watered once every 10 days or so. You are watering more like you were establishing a new lawn. Now you need to back off. I would wean it by skipping days and increasing the time. To start with you should water about an inch every time you water. Measure how long it takes to fill a tuna can using your sprinkler system. Then water for that length of time when you water. Watch the grass for signs of wilting to get the timing for your watering. Sometimes you can go 14 days in the spring and fall. In the winter go to a monthly schedule even if the grass is dormant. When the summer heat cranks back up, you can go to every 7 days and maybe to a 5-day schedule if 7 isn't working. The big point is that you are watering shallow and often. You should be watering deep and infrequently. Frequent watering is also the reason for your weeds. Grass and weed seeds need frequent watering in order to sprout. By backing off on the watering you will cut off the supply of water at the very surface of the soil and virtually stop the new weeds. The reason your attempts to kill the weeds has not worked is you are using the wrong product. Weed n Feed comes up in the forums all the time. It just doesn't do what you expect it to do. The reason seems to do with timing of the product. Weeds die best when they are well fertilized. But by the time the fertilizer part of the WnF product kicks in, the herbicide is long gone. You will have much better results using a plain fertilizer at the recommended rate and then, spot spray individual weeds with something like Weed-B-Gone two weeks after the fertilizer. You will also save a lot of money and frustration. If you want to try that again but you're afraid of killing the grass with too much fertilizer, you can use organic fertilizer instead. The two types of fertilizer have absolutely no cross interactions that would cause you to worry. But in the case of organic, it takes 3 full weeks to see results, so wait 3 weeks instead of 2 before you use the WbG. The last thing with St Augustine is to keep it mowed at the mower's highest setting. There is never any reason to lower the mowing height of St Aug. One more last thing, whatever that weed is should die out from Weed-b-Gone. Be sure to use the Weed-b-Gone in the black bottle with the purple label. That is the only one safe for St Augustine. But do not spray and breath the spray or get it on your or pets. Keep the kids and pets away until it has dried. The less of that you can get away with using the better. Your lawn looks very good, by the way...except for the minor amount of dead stuff. We see some pretty crappy lawns in the forums. Hopefully yours will never become one of those.

Hydrangeas are NOT houseplants :-)) While they are frequently sold offseason in full bloom at grocery stores and florists, these are plants that have been grown in greenhouses under highly controlled conditions and generally have a pretty short indoor life under normal household situations, as Luis has indicated. These are typically considered as throw away plants once they have finished blooming unless you can transition them safely to the landscape. Ideally, in most places in the northern hemisphere, hydrangeas should be dormant now. A plant in leaf and/or bloom indoors is out of the normal growth cycle and will suffer various sources of stress as a result. Indoor condition of most homes are just not suited to keep the plant healthy and insect infestations, discolored foliage and the dropping of leaves will ensue. Webbing indicates the presence of spider mites and lack of humidity (one of the most common problems of attempting to overwinter landscape plants indoors). Water will remove the mites (give the plant a good shower in the kitchen sink or bath) and you may want to mist regularly after to keep up humidity levels......spider mites like dry conditions and abhor moisture and high humidity. I agree with Lius to hold off on repotting until closer to spring and the plant's normal growth cycle. Since you are in a much colder zone than most bigleaf hydrangeas are happy in, you do probably want to continue this as a container plant, however it needs to go through as much a normal growth cycle as possible for long term viability. Put outdoors when the weather moderates and then overwinter in a protected location, but not inside the house. It will need a normal period of dormancy with temperatures right around freezing, but not much lower. A crawl space, unheated basement or garage (if it stays right around freezing) will work. Light is not an issue during the dormant period (no photosynthesis taking place) but it will require modest moisture, just enough to keep soil barely damp.

With regard to code for deep fryer placement in a commercial kitchen, refer to the National Fire Protection Assosication: NFPA 96 12.1.2.4 All deep fat fryers shall be installed with at least a 406-mm (16-in.) space between the fryer and surface flames from adjacent cooking equipment. I'm not claiming that this regulation is in building codes in all areas but it is a guideline. In my experience many inspectors will site "outside" sources such as these if local codes are not clear about requirements. Also keep in mind that if this is a commercial fryer unit, it may not meet safety requirements to be installed in a residential location. If you are building under permit, best to get all of this signed off by the planning department with specifics so that inspectors won't apply their own interpretation of code after you've already committed thousands of dollars to a certain configuration or plan. Good luck.