i have posted before about my experience with glue down Mannington Adura. see the link. I still love it. it still looks great after about 6 years. I especially love that I don't have to worry about scratches like I would with wood. I don't know about the negative comments on that thread. (I think competitors are spamming) Or maybe the product has changed in 6 years??? I don't have any floor protectors on my chairs and I have never had any scratches. in the kitchen and foyer, we installed a new underlayment, used Mannington glue and followed the installation instructions and have not had any come loose. It's been the perfect floor for us. 2 crazy slobbery dogs and wet (snowy) feet entering through the front door, and never any trouble. Here is a link that might be useful: prior Adura thread This post was edited by jules8 on Fri, Sep 19, 14 at 13:44

C --- the lower height is good for "little ones"...... but I also like that it fills the space the most. Since it won't completely fill the space, I think the trim would look good to make it appear that way (assuming the trim ties in your vanity below, color-wise....) The trim also looks more finished.

I have the Wac xenon light bars installed above and underneath my cabs and I love 'em! (I also have them installed in my glass cabs but don't "love" them in that location because they are too big and bulky). As you note, these bars have a rocker switch on the fixture but are also also capable of being dimmed by a wall switch. (I pretty much only use the wall switch). I keep those lights on in the kitchen for very long periods and heat has never been a problem -- not even in the glass cabs. And, yes, they are long lasting. I've yet to make a bulb change in 2+ years. I can't speak about LED light bars for under cab installation and, as such, I won't advocate for or against them in comparison to the xenons for that application. However, I do have LED light bars installed in a stained glass skylight that is immediately outside the kitchen. They are great. There was no question about putting LEDs in the skylight because I certainly didn't want to be concerned about changing them for a very, very long time. However, the coloring of those LEDs is much "bluer" than the warm white I get from the xenons for the cabs.

If it is concrete, do a moisture test first. A simple test would be to 1. Cover a small section (or more) of exposed concrete with transparent plastic taped securely on all edges to the concrete. 2. Leave the plastic over night or longer. 3. See if there is condensation collected on the underside of the plastic. If there is, you will need a vapor barrier. Floating floors are usually installed over concrete - the individual strips of wood interlock and the floor is not attached to the subfloor (except maybe for the edge). Alternatively, a sheet of plywood (or an array of sleeper strips) is laid over the concrete and the top floor is nailed to the plywood.