You might get some ideas from an 8-page article on using various types of hydrangeas framed with boxwood borders. I found it in current issue of Garden Ideas magazine (Spring 08). The fine leaves of small sheared boxwood borders make great contrast with big leaves of large mounded hydrangeas which fill centers. Discusses growing habits, colors, etc. of the various cultivars. Might be worth a look for ideas.

Feedingly, It has been mentioned that you have English ivy in the mix which begs the question, is there more of it on the other side of the fence? If there is, it's not going to be very practical trying to eliminate it as it will keep coming from the neighbors. Unlike many others, I do not despise English ivy and consider it a lawn alternative for large shade areas. I once had a half-acre lot of which 50% was covered in Hedera helix. Actually, I found it to be the EASIEST ground to maintain as it required no mowing or babying. The only thing I had to do was 2-3 times per summer walk through it and spot spray any stray weeds that popped up. And sever (with hand pruners or a knife) any ivy that was climbing trees, of which there were a dozen or so. On some of the larger trees I let it climb up about 4' height and cut it there... I liked that look and didn't have to bend over to do the work! Where the ivy met my grass, I alternately sprayed a swath of Round-up (looks ugly while the ivy tips die, but residually acts as a growth retardant and slows the next growth wave down.) and then edged the ivy with stabs of a pointed spade. (I only did this about 2 to 3 times per summer.) Some people just let the ivy come into the grass. It only grows about 3' to 4' in before it dissipates, being unable to stand the short mowing. It is not much visible like that. Since my adjoining neighbors also had ivy at the back of their yards, there was nothing for me to maintain at the lot line. I had no ivy next to my house so none to ward off there. All totalled, I don't think I spent more than 3 hours (or barely more) per summer maintaining 1/4 acre of ivy. In your case, it would good not to allow ivy on the fence, but spraying a swath of Round-up a couple of times per season would take care of that. Ultimately, I'm suggesting that a row of flowering trees, with a green waterfall of ivy below would be a relatively easy thing to take care of, if one is not opposed to using Round-up and some pre-emergent herbicide granules. Establishing the space as a shade area would help. I would add that it might be some work to get it to the point of being weed-free, but once there, it would be extremely easy to maintain. If I was going to do this, I would relocate all the plants to be saved (such as Hosta) to another area, temporarily or permanently. Then I would work on weeds and simultaneously plant small trees like crape myrtle. If you don't cure the weeds before trying to develop smaller plantings, it will be futile. I don't think there's amount of weed pulling that will cure the weeds you have. As weeds are killed, it would be important to mulch bare areas to minimize any weed regrowth. Having been around the forum for a while now, I am certain that mentioning Hedera helix in a positive light will bring out all manner of negative comments against it. Many, it seems, would rather face a rabid pit bull than a sprig of ivy. To each his own, but it seemed to me that ignorance about how to properly manage ivy is pervasive. Previously, some argued against it based on another related species -- Hedera canariensis -- to which anyone would know is not the same plant, nor does it have the same characteristics. In spite of my love and adoration for Hedera helix, I know that if one is not knowledgeable or willing to learn proper management techniques, it can seem like an overpowering bull. So I'm not recommending that you go out and get some to install in an area currently devoid of it. I'm suggesting that if it's already there, and already in the adjoining neighbor's yards, learn to manage it and use it to your advantage. In spite of what people say, it has a lot of positive attributes.

Hi amanda_t, from a fellow Kentuckian. I currently practice here in Scott County and in Louisville. I've lived and gardened in Nicholasville, Versailles, Lexington, and Paris. Which best approximates where you are in KY? You mention you occupy a "large urban lot." Give us an idea of what that means (since in NYC that could be a 1000 square feet): 1/4 acre, 1 acre, 2.5 acres? Lexington has quite a few properties near the middle of town with 5 acre parcels. If you have a 100+ year old ginkgo, do everything you can to preserve/protect that youngster against all potential damage from new work you intend. That is a plant to treasure. All that said, here's what I'd offer based on your initial set of likes: Beeches: There simply is nothing to match the grace and beauty of an American Beech (Fagus grandifolia) in most seasons. While it is not my favorite large shade tree, I can see where it is one to invest in and love for life. Much of my career in Louisville revolves around managing the historic and wondrous landscapes of the old parks that are blessed with fabulous specimens and thick forests of American Beech. Don't "settle" for an import. Maples for fall color: There are many native species (Sugar and Red Maples already mentioned) and myriad introduced species (Acer griseum, Acer triflorum, Acer palmatum, Acer henryi among them) that offer stellar fall color. Decide which category (large, intermediate, or small) that you'd like to invest in. None will be immune to ice damage; that is easy to observe around Lexington and Louisville. Catalpa: I agree with you on this one - it is too seldom used for its bold branch architecture and impressive leaves/flowers. People focus too much on "litter". I defy anyone to identify a tree that doesn't drop something at sometime. Biases indeed... Crabapples with pretty flowers: There are numerous excellent selections in this category. Pretty flowers are a given. Consider only selecting the highly disease resistant forms, and then decide if you want white, pink, or reddish flowers. Forms can be interesting, from the standard big rounded trees to erect, pendulous, weeping, and dwarf. Finally, the best combine all the above choices with small persistent fruit. This provides winter-long interest until spring leaf-out and/or arrival of the hungry robins to strip them. If you are serious about this species, I can provide a separate (long) list for KY. Redbuds and Dogwood: These are never bad choices. There are numerous fine performers for KY. Trees with wide stretching branches or shapely branches: Hmmm. This is hardest to answer, since it is rather open-ended. I'll second the votes for Nyssa sylvatica and Picea orientalis. These are two that there can't be too many of. I'll offer some tree ideas that haven't been mentioned previously above. Cercidiphyllum japonicum, esp. 'Amazing Grace' Gymnocladus dioicus Carya cordiformis Ilex opaca Abies nordmanniana Quercus michauxii Ostrya virginiana Franklinia alatamaha Halesia diptera esp. 'Magniflora' Viburnum rufidulum Asimina triloba Chionanthus virginicus Cladrastis kentukea It is interesting that no one above asked you what the site was like that you garden on. Some of the suggestions are outstanding - provided the growing conditions are good for that plant. Depending where you are in KY, white oak may be a rather poor choice. It doesn't occur often in the inner Bluegrass region, preferring instead the somewhat more acid soils surrounding this area. The favored trees of the Bluegrass landscape include Quercus macrocarpa, Quercus muehlenbergii, Quercus shumardii, Gymnocladus dioicus, and Fraxinus quadrangulata. I do and would continue to plant any/all of these (and spit in the eye of EAB).

My Enziandom have flowerheads of the same if not larger size than NB. Preziosa is a great choice for smaller flowerheads and IMO it's the best antique-looking hydrangea. Glowing Ember has similar size of flowerheds to Preziosa, coloring is more bright, but shrub itself is smaller- 4x4 at maturity vs 5x6 for Preziosa.