There is a significant difference between repotting and potting up. One eliminates the limitations imposed by root congestion, the other ensures the perpetuation of those limitations until such time as they are eliminated by physically correcting the congestion. Air layering the top of the plant is the safest way to propagate your plant because the method stops the polar flow (from top to roots) of a growth regulator (auxin) that inhibits lateral growth (back-budding or new shoots); so, at the same time you're producing a new plant from the top (layering), you're stimulating new shoots from below the point of the air layer. It's not a difficult process. A second method, which also carries very little risk, would be to cut the top of the plant back, leaving only a few healthy leaves. This also inhibits the polar flow of auxin and forces back-budding lower on the plant. In successive years, you can 'chase' foliage all the way back to shoots growing very low on the plant. You use the term 'leggy'. Leggy happens when the plant isn't getting enough light and usually accompanies a weak stem that is reluctant to support itself. Your plant's natural growth habit is to regularly shed older leaves and occasionally produce another branch here and there. It will produce far more branches w/o your help if you can get it outdoors where there is lots of air movement and good light - as found in open shade. Then, you can prune the top back to one of those lower branches with virtually no risk to the plant. Al

If the conditions are right and the temperature falls fast enough, chill injury, which is different than freeze injury, can occur at temps as high as 45-50*. Many tropical and subtropical plants will tolerate temperatures below 55*, but they won't like it. Generally, plants that grow in areas where the temperatures naturally don't drop below 55-60* grow there for a reason. These plants' metabolisms and their ability to carry on photosynthesis efficiently are often considerably impaired by temperatures below 55-60*. How cold a plant will 'take it' before it incurs damage is sort of a subjective question. Technically, any time a plant is using more energy than it is producing, it is in decline, and will die unless the trend is reversed, so almost all houseplants subjected to temperatures below 55-60* are in decline. Al

I did see this post which is so old. I live in zone 9 in Houston. I have your particular plant outside in my garden in the ground. We had a horrible freeze last year & the year before 12 degrees last winter. This particular drac always comes back from the roots. Came back this year & the year before. I don't know about constant really low temps, but, knowing me, I would try, especially not liking houseplants. You could try this with a cutting. Also the areca palm was planted next to my house and withstood many freezing winters. Information out is that this palm needs to be in the house. I realize it was planted right next to the house. We finally had to dig it out since it continued to grow sideways creating more and more growth. Also cordylines/ti plants always come back just like the drac. Tropical growers need to know this experience. Happy growing. Carol

leave it alone for a month with nothing but proper water.. and then lets revisit the topic ... lets try not to love it to death.. in the meantime ... its extremely stressed.. fert is not a response at this time ... it might hinge on how cold the roots got during the event.. but we dont want to stress it more right now.. unpotting it.. and looking at them ... i wouldnt be surprised if it losses a lot of its leaves over time ... but we will have to wait and see ... ken