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Florida Gardening

What amendments to lower pH?

10 years ago

I am in the process of cleaning out beds to get ready for fall planting and will be adding this season's amendments soon. Thanks to BR I know that my soil's pH is 7, and needs the pH lowered. I added sulfur granules and watered with a vinegar water solution to help right away, but I wanted to add something to help more long term as well. Also, I'm on a bit of a budget, so cheaper is better.

Any suggestions?

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Comments (12)

laura1
10 years ago
raising the pH is a much easier proposition just throw down some lime and the problem is solved.

Lowering the pH is an on going project. Start by using granulated sulfur and in 6 months re-apply...in 6 months re-apply...etc. (of course re-check the pH along the way)

Add organic matter whenever and whatever you can. The organics are acidic But this is a S L O W process!

Good luck.

This post was edited by laura1 on Sun, Aug 4, 13 at 17:22
Truscifi
Original Author
10 years ago
Yes, we are treating with sulfur, and we regularly add homemade compost/manure and in the spring added quite a lot of Black Kow. I am looking at adding organics that will give me the most bang for my buck - I have read that peat helps lower pH more quickly than many other materials, and that pine fines lower it more permanently but slowly. I'm just wondering if anyone has BTDT and can give me some specific advice.
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lowering my soil pH organically, will citrus work?
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I'm posting on this OLD post because it still comes up at the top of google search for "citrus peels lower soil ph" ... I have been doing tests with Citrus Peels.... I have found that about 30 good size grapefruit peels blended up in a blender (lots of batches of blending) with half water/half citrus in the end, produces a good acid base. I did enough to fill 30% of a 5 gallon bucket, which I then diluted to a full 5 gallons of liquid. This was then diluted 5 fold to register a drop in pH of 1 for the water... This diluted citric acid can be used similarly to sulfuric acid dilute. There is a company here that sells Moon Juice which is a combination of sulfuric acid + iron and other trace minerals... It's used for temporarily lowering the ph so trees and shrubs and such can uptake iron and other minerals that lock out at alkaline pH Levels... Given that we're in the southwest we have an ABUNDAND supply of citrus and over time, this is the same effect the trees fruit would give to the soil if there were no humans to tend to and pick the fruit... the fruit would rot on the ground, the citric acid would leach out into the ground as it decomposes and maintain a more acidic soil balance for the trees long term support... So can you use citric acid to dilute, yes you can, though, just like with a sulfuric acid dilute, you're going to need to apply it regularly (monthly or so depending on ph plant/etc) until the bacteria that feed on the sulfur have had enough time to lower the soils actual ph levels ... Something that seems to be long forgotten as I read some of these posts is... all living things have a pH, you can burn things by dropping ph too fast, or by raising too fast, so obviously some of the responses regarding putting acid next to the roots are appropriate, they are also inappropriate because your obviously not going to dump straight acid on anything unless your intention is to utilize the full strength of the acid :P Good Luck! Would love to hear about what you've done and how it's developed since your original questions!
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Comments (33)
I like the ammonium sulfate for this and the N rate sounds very reasonable. Yes, apples do take up NH4 and you'll get some H+'s back that way but they also take up NO3 so as NH4 is oxidized to NO3 before being taken up (which happens relatively quickly, especially once the soil warms up), you'll get your H+'s that way too. I know you already know this but just remember to get your ammonium sulfate down into the soil as quickly as possible to avoid volatilization. Theoretically, it would take about 733 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. of ammonium sulfate to neutralize the lime in the top 6 inches. But soils and soil reactions are so dynamic and variable that we're just talking about good guesses using very precise chemistry to calculate ideals and applying them to an imprecise world. Either way, it would take a whole lotta time. I think in a real world sense you'll be addressing the soil solution more than the lime. That's not a problem though. Like I said in an earlier post, I think you'll always be fighting the lime so addressing the soil solution is the way to go. You'll get some pH drop, you'll free up some micros and then the lime will buffer the pH back up. Lather, rinse, repeat. If I'm following you correctly, are you looking at about 77 lbs. of sulfur per 1000 sq.ft. applied to the top? I would think that's an awful lot. My own personal rule is not to exceed 30 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. tilled to 6 inches. Somewhere in that neighborhood is where I start to see plants burning. Add to that the fact that sulfur doesn't move down very well and would be even more concentrated in the top. I would be concerned about getting a real hot zone and frying some surface roots. That wouldn't be the end of the world but I think you could get some burning and put a pretty good chunk of the root system out of commission. I'm also afraid it wouldn't have much effect on lime or pH down beyond an inch or two in the profile. Over all, it would seem a little counterproductive to me. Personally, if I were to go the sulfur route in this situation, I would probably stick with about 5 to 10 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft., scratch it into the surface and water it in well. That should give you a little extra punch in the top couple of inches anyway.
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Hello, tinamcg. I do not try to change hydrangea color but this is my understanding of the process. Before adding aluminum sulfate, I would make a soil test. A soil test is necessary to tell you if you already have "enough" naturally occuring aluminum in the soil. If you do not then apply aluminum sulfate to increase aluminum levels and lower the Ph. Aluminum sulfate should work fast since its application causes a chemical reaction. Once you measure "normal" levels of aluminum in the soil or if you already had "normal" levels of aluminum in your soil, you may want to apply elemental sulphur (a.k.a. flowers of sulphur) in order to further tweak the PH Level. Contrary to aluminum sulfate, Elemental Sulphur takes several weeks to acidify the soil because it first has to be oxidized by bacteria (here you have a biological reaction, not a chemical reaction). I would add chemicals monthly but only thru the growing season in Spring and quit when summer starts. Not particular reason for that though. I do not want to introduce 'problems' with the addition of chemicals at a time when the plants experience high temperatures, lack of humidity and drying winds. Regarding your desire to control the color to lilac or blue, be aware that color change is a project that takes several years and requires lots of applications and soil tests (to see how things are progressing). Also, it is very difficult to the intensity of a color (how strong or pale the color is) so you may need to experiment with other varieties if ES just does not want to attain the type of color that you want. Luis
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If this is for a lawn, I would not worry about it. Grass can grow just fine at that pH level. If you decide to go through with it, this is not something that can be done over night without amending your soil. I'd figure out how much each zone covers, and add the proper amount for that square foot and run the zone until the tank is empty. If you use something like Ammonium sulfate that takes about 5 lbs to get 1 lb of n per 1000 sq/ft, you might want to set the tank on the fastest setting so you are not flooding your lawn with extra water, and having most of it run off. Michael
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User
10 years ago
Audra,

Like Laura said it is a lot harder to lower PH than raise it. Your best bet is the pelleted sulfur. I am going down to Helena the week of the 18th so if you need a 50 pound bag of sulfur just yell, it is cheap there like $12? I started your Ice Cream Bananas btw and they should be ready to go in a couple weeks.

This post was edited by bamboo_rabbit on Sat, Aug 3, 13 at 18:14
Truscifi
Original Author
10 years ago
That would be awesome! Definitely a lot more affordable than buying it at Lowe's or Ace. Thanks!

And I'm excited about the Ice Cream banana. I have to go pick out a spot for them!
User
10 years ago
Audra,

You bet Helena is cheaper......You kill em wants $29 for a 20# bag. I kind of forgot you wanted the bananas lol. A week or so ago I was killing all the extra pups off and I remembered I promised you them. I took 4 off, it looks like 3 will make it though you don't have to take all 3.
laura1
10 years ago
Where is Helena? I usually go to Southern Agricultural in Palmetto which is just north of Bradenton.
User
10 years ago
Laura,

Helena is a national chemical company. One of their dealers is in Dade city. The fertilizer they have is great and has all the micros and is also about $12 per 50#. I think Tom said there is one in Tampa also??? I could be mistaken.
Truscifi
Original Author
10 years ago
Wow. Would you mind picking up a bag of the fertilizer for us too?
User
10 years ago
No problem......what would you want? just a general fert like 10-10-10 or something different?
brute
10 years ago
I looked up Helena's website and found that their Palmetto location is the "closest" one to me. Although I extensively searched their website, I couldn't determine whether or not they carry a good time-release tropical fruit tree fertilizer. I'd drive up there if they had something at a good price.
User
10 years ago
brute,

Do you mean like a Osmocote type fertilizer? In the trade it is called caliber cote so you know what to ask for. It is always much more expensive than normal fertilizer. I know Dade City sells it but it is produced by an outside company I don't recall it being much of a bargain.
Truscifi
Original Author
10 years ago
Yes, I think 10-10-10 would be fine, assuming it also has the micronutrients. I will use it for a variety of fruits and veggies, so it is probably better to stick with a general. Thanks!

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