Nice improvements you've made. How about some creeping phlox near the front of the bed or near the sidewalk? It's low, has beautiful spring color and adds interesting texture when not in bloom. Other low growing plants for the front of the bed are thyme (some varieties are taller than others). It has subtle, small flowers and you can cook with it! Lavender is also a lovely addition to any garden and it too isnÂt overly flamboyant when flowering with gray-green foliage. If you are looking for bright colors, daylilies bloom in July and come in a variety of colors. TheyÂre easy to grow (full sun or part shade) but beware. They can take over if you donÂt tear a few out every year once theyÂre established. IÂd move the hosta on the far right under the tree to the left. It looks a little droopy like itÂs getting too much sun. In fact, IÂd move the one in the middle too. I assume all three were the same size when you planted. Notice how the one on the far left is biggest? Probably because itÂs enjoying the shade. One last suggestion - you could grow some catnip for the kitty in the window. Nice job so far. Good luck with the rest of your planting. This is a great time of year to find discounted perennials.

Nota, how big is your new hibiscus? Ok, I'm sure leaves are yellowing because of different environment..I KNOW this for fact. It's a good idea to check for pests, especially mites, scale and white fly. They should be easy to spot..and it never hurts to check Hibs do need 1. fresh air 2 humidity and 3. sun. \ Many of my tree hibs leaves are yellowing..it's too large for me to place in the sink or carry upstairs to the shower so the best I can do is mist. Remove yellow leave..if you leave them on and they fall in the soil this WILL attract bugs. I'm sure the leaves are yellowing becaues of the change. You want to duplicate the area in which it was shipped. If easy to carry to sink, do so once a wk.. I also really advise buying hib food at either www.stokestropical.com or www.plumeriapeople.com This food is only u sed on hibs..Since I've been using I've been able to keep a hib longer than a yr..my tree was bought in the mid-90's, so you see what I mean..Just sprinkle food on soil then water..it lasts 3 months. I divide mine in thirds so it needs feeding once a month. A little goes a long way. You apply food by size of pot..so say my 12" pot requires 2 teaspoons of food..they also give u a little measuering spoon. My hib is in south and east windows.. They only get watered when soil is dry. Misted daily. summer outdoors..this is important..you wouldn't believe the difference when they're growing outside in full sun. Even iin summer I let soil dry a bit, and after a rain shower flowers burst out. I feed my hib (one of two types of plants) yr round..Hibiscus do not go dormant, but becuase of lack of sun, etc, it does seem to slow down..in leaf growth and floweirng, but if you have sunny days they will bloom all yr..One thing about winter is, flowers do not grow as large as they do in summer when outdoors. Flowers last 1-2 days so this is normal. But w/good care there should always be flowers on a hib. Enclosed is a pic of my hib..didn't shoot the whole tree, but what you see is the middle and top. Good luck, Toni Here is a link that might be useful: RE: Got a new Hibiscus and I need some help

Hi Deanna, Bulbs store energy for the plant that can tide it over during rough times. So, rotted stems are like busted stems, as long as the bulb is large enough to support itself through next year (its not a tiny bulblet) it will come back, just a little smaller. This may result in a smaller plant with fewer blooms the first season but it will otherwise be fine. The thing to check is whether or not the bulbs have healthy looking roots. In the Fall if you find that the bulb and roots are rotten I wouldn't bother to plant it. Stressed bulbs often will decide to take a season off and not send up foliage (or abort growth already started). Instead it will spend its time growing new roots. So that doesn't mean they are dead. It sounds like your stems got the fungal disease botrytis possibly from overwatering. With your curled up new sprouts (possibly lieing along the soil) this would be an easy thing to have happen. Putting late planted bulbs in pots is usually a good idea since you can use sterile well draining soil and, depending on where you put the pot, control watering and sun. So don't hesitate to do that in the future. Botrytis strikes plenty of lilies in the garden as well. I'd cut away any diseased foliage (and throw it out securely) and spray the remaining foliage and the pots soil surface with a rose fungal spray. I've included a link with some info. -Helen Here is a link that might be useful: Plantlilies botytis link

First seems to be an Echeveria but a bit out of focus. Second looks like Gasteria bicolor Third is out of focus, not sure what it is The soil seems a bit heavy on the organic side and may retain too much water, especially for the cactus(?) and the Echeveria, meaning it will hold too much water increasing the risk of rot. Any without roots should NOT be watered until it has roots. The Echeveria looks like it might need a smaller pot and more light as well.