Well, after reading all the old threads (or at least I think), I finally found this posted originally by daisyduckworth: Tender perennial in warmer climates, treat as an annual in cold areas. Grows to 80cm tall and 60cm wide. Leaves can be from 2-8cm long and 5-30mm across, with gentle serrated edges. The leaves form in whorls on the upright stems. Small white flowers, with a similar appearance to heather, come in clusters on the tips of the stems in summer and autumn. Propagate by seeds or by tip cuttings taken in summer, or root division in spring. Seeds are notoriously infertile and slow to germinate. Flowering usually occurs 54-104 days after transplanting. The plant is climatically suited to climates from temperate to sub-tropical where temperatures range between 21-43C, with an average of 24°C, but it will also grow in the tropics, where it prefers shade and will also grow in cold climates with winter protection. Plants in the ground have been noted to take minimal frosts. It is a somewhat temperamental plant and may be slow to grow at first. Even in ideal conditions, it is not uncommon for plants to die suddenly or to lose their leaves. As long as the roots are alive, the plant may regrow. Poor, loose, well drained soil is recommended. The plants need to be well-mulched so that surface feeder roots do not dry out. For gardeners in cold climates, it is recommended that plants be started in large pots so that the pot can be moved to a warm verandah in winter. In cold climates, the plant may go dormant to the ground. As stevia does not over-winter outdoors in freezing conditions, the roots are lifted in autumn and stored indoors in perlite or sand and then set outside again in spring. Stevia requires regular watering in dry periods but has poor tolerance to long waterlogging or to saline water or soils. In its natural habitat, the plant occurs naturally on acid soils of 4-5 pH but will grow well on soils up to 9 pH. Leaf yields can be increased with a moderate application of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilisers. Plants also respond well to liquid seaweed as a foliage spray applied fortnightly. As soon as the plant flowers, the leaf production slows down, so it is an advantage to nip off flower buds, to encourage further leaf development. If the plant is left to flower, the tip leaves take on a slightly bitter overtone. Because of its gangly growth, plant several together for support. Plant will die if left go to flower, so it should be cut back repeatedly to prevent flowering. Harvesting: Collect leaves as required, preferably in autumn. They can be dried and powdered. Culinary Uses: Use dried, powdered leaves as a substitute for sugar. One tablespoon of stevia or less is equivalent to about 1 cup sugar. Some people notice a slight after-taste, while others do not. A liquid sweetener is made by pouring 1 litre boiling water over 1 tablespoon dried leaves and leaving to infuse. Refrigerate and use within a few days or freeze for later. To make a syrup, place 4 teaspoons dried powdered leaves in a saucepan with 2 cups water, simmer slowly for 10-15 minutes. Cool and refrigerate. A teaspoon of Vitamin C powder may be added to act as a preservative. An infusion of fresh or dried leaves can be drunk as a beverage, hot or cold, or added to other herbs as a sweetener. If using fresh leaves to replace dried quantities listed above, multiply the amount 5 times. Approximately 6 large leaves chopped finely is a substitute for 1/2 cup of sugar for baking or in cooked recipes. 1 teaspoon of ground stevia is equal to 1 cup of sugar; 2 drops of liquid essence is equal to 1 teaspoon sugar. An extract can be made by combining 1 cup vodka with 3/4 cup fresh stevia leaves in a jar. Shake every day for 2 weeks, then filter through a coffee filter. Add a drop to beverages. From my own experience of growing Stevia, I've learned to remove the flowers as they appear - otherwise the plant will die down to nothing. I've also found that it's a cantankerous plant which can often die down to nothing for no apparent reason, even in ideal conditions. But you never give up on it! You can have an empty space or pot for up to a year, and then suddenly the plant will resurrect! Amazing. Sweetness can vary from 10-600 times sweeter than sugar, dependent on a range of factors from soil, climate, time of harvest and many others. It is NOT a true substitute for sugar in all recipes. It does not dissolve, it does not make a syrup. Consider it as a flavouring, much as you would vanilla. To be honest, I don't like the taste of it, or rather, the earthy after-taste it has. Some people don't mind it, though. ---------------------- Thanks for the great info! I've found that if you use the EXACT right proportion by testing and testing to find the right sweetness, that you can almost eliminate the aftertaste because using more than an average sweetness level brings out the aftertaste badly and not enough leaves the item not tasting sweet. I have also found that you need to let it sit for a couple of days in a beverage for it's sweetness to get to its full potential. If you have the right sweetness one day, a couple days later it will be much sweeter after it's been left to sit in the fridge, so either use the item you made with it immediately or plan to use less stevia than you originally would have because it will get sweeter. Also, the aftertaste can be lessened by how you harvest it. Don't let it go to flower or it increases the aftertaste. Blessings, Angela

Rhizo: That all depends on the persons opinion who's talking. =) Spindly plants, IMO are very noticeably unstable. They would require several stakes/ties just to keep the plant from falling over by itself, etc., etc.. (Example: ). It is quite normal for a very healthy tomato plant to be a bit leggy (and even grown that way on purpose for deeper root development). Simply pot it up 4-6 inches when going into its final home (ground or container) and it will have a deep healthy root system and produce just as fine as any other tomato plant. Many many people overreact and take legginess to seriously; as some wickedly harmful disease or something. From what I've heard on the many threads about it from many different people, it's nothing but a matter of opinion (to a certain extent...see picture above). When someone calls my plants leggy now, I simply thank them for their kind compliment. =) Anyway, let's try to stay on the subject of the thread, shall we? My Stevia was sown 4 days ago. I will let y'all know how it goes. - Steve

No, I got plants - and apparently have several varieties, because the leaf and plant structure is completely different for several of them. I wouldn't hesitate to propagate from cuttings. I grow it in pots so I can bring it in during the winter.

Remember that stevia probably won't live through a winter outside where you are - I grow mine in pots here in Virginia so that I can bring them in for winter. I don't really "prune" the plants, rather I harvest. In the beginning, I cut them back to no more than about 3-inches, then let the branches grow out to 6 to 10-inches, then cut them off just after the first leaves. I'll include a sprig or two in pots of herbal teas I make during the summer months, but I also dry a lot to include in my herbal tea blends that I drink when fresh herbs are not available. I suppose you could dry it and pulverize it down to a fine powder to sprinkle or use in other ways, but I haven't done that. I probably would never use a chemical fungicide on any of my herbs - this is a plant where I will be seeking to leach out the essence of the leaves - why would I want to poison myself? My stevia does tend to pick up scale insects, and it seems ants like farming the insects, which could also include aphids, etc. Immediately after cutting the entire plant down to a little clump, I will often spray with neem oil when scale insects are present, which helps with any fungus problems as well. Since the entire plants get cut back three or four times a summer, that is the extent of my maintenance. It is really important to eliminate all the scale or insect issues you have before bringing them in for the winter, as the biggest source of plant loss I've had is the expansion of scale.