Rototilling is the worst thing you can do with bermuda grass because even if you leave only a 1/4" piece of stolon every three feet or so, that is enough to enable the bermuda grass to completely take back the garden plot in just a couple of months. Hoes don't particularly work with bermuda grass as they often chop off the top growth and leave the stolons beneath ground. One way to (maybe, success not guaranteed) get rid of it before planting would be to rent a sod cutter and cut out all the bermuda sod/dirt in late winter/early spring before attempting to plant. That's similar to what Mars described but it doesn't involve digging---the sod cutter does it for you. You would have to use the sod cutter deeply enough to get out all the stolons. Then, to make up for the soil removed with the sod cutter, you'd have to bring in compost and other amendments to refill your garden plot to at least its original depth. I doubt that I would go to that much trouble for a single plot of land in a community garden unless I could keep the same plot year after year. What I'd do in your shoes is just keep digging it all out. It will keep coming back, but if you religiously dig it out before it becomes too deeply entrenched, eventually you realize that less and less is coming back each year. If the soil is soft enough that you can pull it out, pulling could work but often when people think they are pulling bermuda grass out, all they're doing is pulling runners off the stolon and leaving the stolon behind so make sure you aren't doing that. If your community garden allows the use of herbicides (some do, some don't because of herbicide drift issues), you could kill the grass with a herbicide, following label directions and carefully applying so no drift travels to adjacent gardens and kills their plants. Personally, because of herbicide drift, I'd never use a herbicide in a community garden area. I live on acreage in a rural area and I don't use herbicides either, but still get plant damage'plant death from people using them nearby---often multiple times a year. If you haven't planted yet, you could put down landscape fabric, cut holes in it where you want the plants or seeds to be planted, and plant. You would do this after you already had removed all the bermuda grass stolons to the best of your ability. Then cover the fabric with mulch a couple of inches thick. This isn't foolproof, but in a very weedy area it can help a great deal. You still will have to deal with weeds that come up in the cut hole areas beside your plants or seedlings, but it still will cut back on the weeds a great deal. You also may have weed seeds blow in or wash in during heavy rain and sprout in your mulch, so you'll have to pull them out before they can grow down through the mulch and through the landscape fabric. Dealing with bermuda grass is just a fact of life in this part of the country as it is incredibly aggressive and you cannot ignore it or it will take your garden plot away from you.

First thing is to do a soil test. The recommended test cost $25 at Logan Labs in Ohio. Post your results here to get a custom analysis and recommendation. Then decide how you want to proceed. If you want to sod now, kill everything with glyphosate, water for 1 week, then kill what grows again with glyphosate. **If you are going to sod Zoysia, do a 3rd round of watering and glypho. If you are going to sod bermuda just the 1st 2 rounds are enough. Another option is to kill the weeds with Celsius and Sulfo, then wait and see. Water your lawn like was new sod and see how much bermuda you can grow in the next month. It won't be much, if anything but at least give it a chance. Bermuda is very resilient, you may think it's gone, but it's not. If you have tall weeds they will simply shade out the bermuda. Getting rid of the weed competition may open the door for some of you bermuda to return. You should have a good sense of how much bermuda remains late Spring/early Summer. No matter what path you choose you will need to start a good pre-emergent routine NOW to ward of Winter weeds and continue the pre-emergent routine for the rest of you life. Prodiamine Sulfo Celsius

I take great pleasure in killing those monsters, so I'd do it now but J4 is correct--They will die at first freeze, leaving millions of seeds in the ground for next year so get on a good pre emergent schedule & spot spray any that make it through

Pictures 1, 3, and 4 should be controlled by spot spraying the weed with Weed-b-Gon or Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer. Picture 2 is poa annua. I'm not sure what the control is for that but others here can help you. It will die by itself in the summer heat, but not before dropping tens of thousands of seeds.