These two ways have worked for me many times: 1) Plant very shallow with toothpicks helping to hold the leaf up. 2) Plant as normal, but use perlite in a pot that sits in water. Believe it or not, with this last method, I have had a plant bloom with absolutely no fertilizer or anything else added. This was a spare plant that I was putting-off planting.

You can start by reading something I wrote a while ago, then posing any questions you have: Though roots form readily and often seemingly more quickly on many plants propagated in water, the roots produced are quite different from those produced in a soil-like or highly aerated medium (perlite - screened Turface - calcined DE - seed starting mix, e.g.). Physiologically, you will find these roots to be much more brittle than normal roots due to a much higher percentage of aerenchyma (a tissue with a greater percentage of inter-cellular air spaces than normal parenchyma). Aerenchyma tissue is filled with airy compartments. It usually forms in already rooted plants as a result of highly selective cell death and dissolution in the root cortex in response to hypoxic conditions in the rhizosphere (root zone). There are 2 types of aerenchymous tissue. One type is formed by cell differentiation and subsequent collapse, and the other type is formed by cell separation without collapse ( as in water-rooted plants). In both cases, the long continuous air spaces allow diffusion of oxygen (and probably ethylene) from shoots to roots that would normally be unavailable to plants with roots growing in hypoxic media. In fresh cuttings placed in water, aerenchymous tissue forms due to the same hypoxic conditions w/o cell death & dissolution. Note too, that under hypoxic (airless - low O2 levels) conditions, ethylene is necessary for aerenchyma to form. This parallels the fact that low oxygen concentrations, as found in water rooting, generally stimulate trees (I'm a tree guy) and other plants to produce ethylene. For a long while it was believed that high levels of ethylene stimulate adventitious root formation, but lots of recent research proves the reverse to be true. Under hypoxic conditions, like submergence in water, ethylene actually slows down adventitious root formation and elongation. If you wish to eventually plant your rooted cuttings in soil, it is probably best not to root them in water because of the frequent difficulty in transplanting them to soil. The brittle "water-formed" roots often break during transplant & those that don't break are very poor at water absorption and often die. The effect is equivalent to beginning the cutting process over again with a cutting in which vitality has likely been reduced. If you do a side by side comparison of cuttings rooted in water & cuttings rooted in soil, the cuttings in soil will always (for an extremely high percentage of plants) have a leg up in development on those moved from water to a soil medium for the reasons outlined above. ***************************** Some key issues in determining whether or not cuttings will strike are the state of health/vitality of the plant material the cuttings were taken from, whether or not there are disease organisms in the rooting medium (all unsterilized peat-based media does), how well-aerated the rooting medium is in relationship to how deep the cuttings are stuck. Al

It happens. Not to all varieties, but I see these root suckers quite often. Dibleys used S.kentaniensis in their hybridization to keep the size of the plant compact and extend the blooming season. Crystal series are quite close to S.kentaniensis. Do not know about "Hannah" for sure - but being close to the species probably increases the ability to propagate in this manner. I would say - the same varieties that create lots of baskets - new plantets on the flower stalks also produce root suckers. I.

I am not familiar with the plant but like to propagate. If it were mine, I would pin it down on wet potting soil, cover it with a little Turface and slip it into a bag. It looks like the original leaf is in the way of potting it and that roots and leaves are coming out of a node, which is normal. I propagate vines, verbena and diamond frost euphorbia that way, pinning down. The Turface also weights it down and stays moist and the cutting roots seeks the soil on their own. I start lightly fertilizing with tomato fertilizer as soon as I get roots. But I don't root things in water so don't know about the transition to soil. It's easy to smother plants in soil. You probably don't have Turface, people use crushed granite. You have a robust looking affair there. I am responding because you said anyone. Maybe someone will save you from my advice and post a better idea. Good luck! pw