Thanks Cal. I too have been concerned about what you mention. Originally I had planned on transferring every plug to small plastic cups for a few weeks, but after transferring 40 or so it looked more like a huge project I didn't want to face. I may revisit that idea. I have moved half of other plugs to an in ground type of greenhouse for the time being. Seems to stay quite warm and humid with the soil temp at 62. Plus it's tucked down in the woods well protected from winds. Planning on covering with straw if temps go lower early next week. 4' x 6' area handles about 200 plugs I have another similar area (larger) I could do the same with most of the Petunias. Getting them in the ground is much quicker than using individual cups. As far as the dryness of plugs. I have noticed a few here and there, but I'm not just sticking them in the ground at will. Similar to loosening a root bound plant very gingerly seems to work. Thanks again folks! Btw this is related to... see link Here is a link that might be useful: Petunias on A Sloped Hill

Hi, thanks so much for the advice. I am going to try my nurseries first but I did find out from the grower that they will ship me fewer trays and charge me a small "low order" fee so it might be a little more cost effective than a 4 tray order. (each tray has 100 plugs!) I have a large linear area to plant but I definitely don't need 400 plants. I'm wondering, when you grow from plugs, do you do it in a greenhouse? I was planning on setting them out in a shaded area in my backyard. Also, what are cell pacs and where could I find them. I was thinking about planting them into 4 inch peat pots that could go directly into the garden bed when they are mature enough. Bad or good idea? And lastly, you mentioned potting up to next step. How do you decide when the plugs are ready to go into the planting bed? I'm in Houston so once fall arrives our weather is pretty mild. thanks so much for this info. I really appreciate the feedback!

Jessica, April 2 is a bit late to order dahlia plants from dahlia specialists (tubers might be OK but most suppliers would be sold out of many varieties of tubers....), but still acknowledgement would be nice, just to know that 'THINGS ARE WORKING OK' ...... I have ordered from Buddy Dean - HILLTOP GARDENS for the past 3 years. In fact i usually make 3 orders, one in November, another in late December (when his Web site has usually be somewhat updated ...) and again in early February (when surely his website ha been updated, usually ) ........... Buddy and Kelly seem to "automatically combine these orders" as I have received all in one shipment .. .BUT never get an acknowledgement, although the first year they did phone me with a question on my order. I ask for April 15 delivery, as need that in i Rome, GA so that the plants get well rooted and growing well before hot weather comes along in mid-to-late May ... BUT 2 years ago thought they had 'forgot" and then surprise the box of plants arrived the first week in May. Last year the box of plant arrived about April 17. THIS YEAR I AM STILL WAITING and WONDERING - as it is MAY 10, and I should have had these no later than May 1, so that they could have been potted in 4" pots to develop a solid root ball, before transplanting out to open garden. BUT I have gotten QUALITY - DISEASE FREE ( Virus Free) plants from HILLTOP and some varieties that just cannot be found anywhere else these days. Specialty Dahlia Growers do it as a "labor of love" - normally as a "hobby" while supporting themselves with another regular full-time job. BUT - the other 3 dahlia plant suppliers I order form (think the only ones currently shipping plants) all COMMUNICATE and honor SHIP DATES or let one know if a variety is having difficulty rooting in a particular year- so COMMUNICATION is IMPORTANT in EVERYTHING ...... This year I've spent several hundred $$$ on plants order from HILLTOP, but if they do arrive withing the next week or two, I'm afraid it will be "too late" for our hot weather and will have to toss them, as too late for the growing conditions of my climate in Georgia ..............

Thanks for the variety reports. If your seedlings got leggy, they probably did not have enough light. Paste tomatoes always get BER the worst. It's more about water/air balance in the soil than it is a nutrient issue. In the clay soil that I have, mixing in organic matter like manure lightens the soil, which helps to provide more even moisture and reduce BER. I am just guessing, but I think any soil lightener would help, at least for me. You might try experimenting with amendments to find the one that works best for reducing BER in your soil.