Ficus c is an extremely vigorous tree, so we can get away with practices rooting them that would be disastrous in other less vigorous plants. Still, the two most important influences on cutting success is the state of vitality and health of the parent plant, and cleanliness. In operations that propagate vegetatively, great pains are taken to see that the stock plants are in peak vitality and free of diseases. The propagation area and all things that come in contact with the plant are sterile or as close to sterile as possible. Nutrients in the propagation media/media solution actually inhibit the cuttings ability to remain hydrated. Additionally, the cutting cannot utilize nutrients until root primordia appear. At that point, it's beneficial to apply a weak fertilizer solution. Be patient. You're on people time and the tree is on tree time. They're different ..... and only one of you is capable of making allowances for that difference. ;o) .... and please don't move the cutting around so you can check for roots. You'll easily break the microscopic hair roots and set the rooting process back. Good luck. Al

I have never had beans that tough. I have cooked beans left from Y2K. (You don't know what's Y2K?) I soak beans in very hot water to prevent them from being viable and germinate. The soaked beans stay in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days. They all puff up to twice the volumn. Then I cook them in the pressure cooker for about 15 minutes. You must use very low fire to build up the pressure and keep the pressure. Some beans have a tendence to bubble and clog the pressure vent. Also you can't have a big pot of beans for the same reason. dcarch

Thanks for all the comments. The croton in question used to live a courthouse, about 12 years ago when the courthouse was moved and a secretary pulled it out of the garbage. I got it from a judge I used to work for (who has since died), who had it in his office for a few years. It lived in mine for about 5 years, subsisting on fluorescent lights and leftover coffee, until it nearly died from rotted roots. I brought it home, repotted it, and it prospered on my back porch for 3-4 years until I left it out one night that turned out to be a lot colder than the 40 degrees that was forecast. I do hope it comes back.

1. Cauliflower will not head in the heat. 2. It needs those leaves. In most areas the imported cabbage worm if not controlled will destroy cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage. Cabbage looper is not as prevalent but can be equally destructive. Bt works wonders. as do row covers. 3. Most varieties of cauliflower will head under 70 days from transplant. I would Check your variety. If its past its DTM or your temps are holding around 90 or above pull and start over.