Try and distinguish between the new growth and the oldest leaves, especially on artichokes. As long as the rhizomes stay healthy, the leaves & fruit will eventually come, no matter how ratty any one leaf looks. Transplant shock can be rough and produce stress signs in all plants, but it's best to wait it out a bit and see if the new growth recovers. Splashing soil up on the leaves while watering can produce yellow & black spotting too, it's one of my biggest challenges, as a moment of garden ADHD while watering means I've just splattered an entire row of seedlings with soilborne fungi and bacteria. It's often localized and never spreads beyond the affected leaf, except on my solanums (tomato, eggplant, potatoes, ...) it can mean I've just sent early blight everywhere, as I can't seem to get that disease out of my garden ever since my Home Depot tomatoes were infested. Whiteflies leaving your nursery-bought plants is a huge problem, it's illegal for the nursery to sell you infested plants. Get a refund and/or find another nursery. I rarely use box stores anymore, their pest prevention is weak (at best).

That looks physiological to me, not pathogenic. There are a couple of possibilities, depending on what you do with your plants. Some nutrient deficiencies can look like that; magnesium, potassium, maybe molybdenum. If you haven't fed them recently, or if you have been feeding them a straight NPK food and your soil isn't the best, consider supplementing with a complete fertilizer or tonic, one which has trace minerals. (I'm fond of Superthrive for hard-to-pinpoint problems like this.) Low pH can also mimic nutrient deficiency. It could be fertilizer burn, though it's not perfectly typical. If you've been feeding them a lot, lay off for a bit and see whether it resolves. The last possibility I can think of is spray burn. Sulfur and some oils can burn foliage at high temperatures (over 85F) and even simple soap at high concentration can burn; it's common for the tips of the leaves to get higher concentrations of the spray as it runs off. You didn't mention any earlier sprays, but if you have done any, watch your temperatures and try to get an even spray without a lot of runoff. Don't mix different sprays together, either. I don't suspect a fungus because the yellowing pattern is so regular, and the dead patches are in the center of the yellow areas which speaks of it either being the center of the toxicity/deficiency, or being a victim of sunburn as the leaves get too pale to handle the sun. I hope some of that helps. :) --Alison

Hi malicitator, sorry to pester you so long after you first posted this. We have a Kentia, too, and it seems to have exactly the same problem as yours: very similar spots on some of the fronds and yellowing (with brown spots) of one of the small leaves. In addition, our plant has a couple of developing fronds that seem healthy, but have stopped growing. The height of the shoots has not increased in weeks or months, and they show no signs of opening, either. Did you ever find out what was wrong with your plant, and, if so, did you manage to fix it? Many thanks!

Yes, the pot looks small and the plant looks underfed. You are giving it only about a quarter of its nutrient needs: Citrus Focus instructions say "Add 10ml of Citrus Focus in every litre of clean water, weekly. If leaves are pale or yellow, increase frequency of application."