Bio Char
10 years ago
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Innoculate bio-char
Comments (0)I innoculate bio-char made from accacia thorn trees/branches & then use it incorporated into soil at +/- 10% of each prepared planting hole's volume (for open field crops a pick loosens the ground at each hole, the steel head is used to break apart the clods & then can mix in place any preparation want for planting into) . (a) coconut water is collected from the green coconut for use; then the outer green layer is sliced off the coconut with a machete (ie: not used here) & the fresh husk is split in half; any coconut jelly "meat" is scooped out for eating - for those not in the tropics,but near a metropolitan supermarket look for refrigerated pre-peeled drinking coconuts (not the dry meat hard coconut) (b) cracked pieces of bio-char that have previously been soaked in an indigenous microbe innoculate solution is set down to lay out inside the curved hollow of the split coconut (c) the moist new coconut fibrous shell, with it's immersion innoculated bio-char, is placed on top of the soil under a tree's noon time shadow-line margin (ie: not laying up against the tree's trunk & yet not out fully exposed on the ground where the rain can pound down on it; you want to be under the tree canopy, but indirect sun during the day is fine) (d) then it is all fully covered with well aged cow manure collected from milking cows (first break apart the manure clumps with a shovel or strike manure clods with pick-ax head so it can spread to cover your agricultural preparation better) (e) leave the preparation in place for a minimum season of +/- 6 months before use with crops (uncured bio-char is capable of interfering with Nitrogen availability of field crops); the aged coconut is appropriate for use as a soil amendment & this "coir" can be chopped/sliced up with a machete (or shredded if taken out in the dry season); however, do not deliberately pulverize the inoculated bio-char (ie: use it in pieces that it was when you first set it out months earlier; if you really need small particles to work into your growing site then make the bio-char into that size of pieces before you start to culture everything together ); keeping the inoculated bio-char pieces' end-product intact helps maintain the fragile fungii structures you desire to put to work in the soil, when you finally add it into your growing site...See MoreTerra Preta/ Bio-Char
Comments (95)pnbrown, our observations and our belief tell us that all that happens about this planet which is home is done by God's hand, we need not any men who can feed us false doctrine on this matter. we don't need any of those sciences, for me it matters not that gravity is what is identified as holding us onto the planet so we down here don't drop off, it is God's work at work. yes the sciences are at the very least fake and possibly worse. like one person said how can we trust these climate change scientists to be making the right theory when we can little trust the medical sciences for our health. for us God delivers. God bless my friend len...See MoreCoffee Plant Help !
Comments (14)Howdy Wiguy. Coffee Trees aren't the easiest plants to grow in zones 7 and under. After several attempts, I finally managed to keep a Coffee tree indoors during winter months and outside in summer. My tree is going on 12-yrs-old. Winter is harsh on our trees. Three important factors are fresh, circulating air, humidity, and proper watering. Of course, sun is important, too. I discovered Coffee's do well in very bright light. Direct south or west, 'summer' sun will scorch leaves.' Too much sun is the reason my previous Coffee Trees died. During winter my coffee is placed in a cool room, before south and east windows. Also a few hours of artificial light at night. Because Coffee require acidic soil, I add Peat in the mix. The mix consists of, MG Cactus and Succulent Soil, Perlite, Pea Gravel, Peat, House Plant Soil, African Violet Soil and bark. Gravel and Perlite help with drainage. Peat and African Violet Soils acidify. House Plant 'black' soil adds nutrients. I find it mandatory to shower leaves often. Plants perk up after a shower. If possible, daily misting helps, too. Water thoroughly, saturating entire rootball. Before adding more water, soil should dry between. It should look crumbly, not cracked. The best way to check is by inserting a stake deep in soil. If stake comes out wet, retest a few days later. Once stake comes out dry/clean, it's time to water. When summered outdoors, more water is needed. Plastic pots work best. If you're a person who can't resist watering, pot in clay. Better yet, try your best to avoid over-watering. Containers must have drainage holes. During winter, fertilizer is withheld, however I add Super Thrive. Once new leaves form, Coffee gets its first feeding of the year with Fish Emulsion. In summer, it gets a balanced,(5-5-5 or 10-10-10) half-strength dossage of a balanced fertilizer. Make sure fertilizer contains minerals and nutrients. Read the label for ingredients. Inspecting for insects is most important, moreso when wintering indoors. Coffee can acquire different insects. Mealy, Mites, etc. Dry, stale air and constantly wet soil is a No-No, leads to pests and disease. Adding Iron 1-2 times a year is sufficient. Certain plants need extra iron, especially acid-lovers. Follow container directions. Use as a preventative and/or cure from Chlorosis. Good luck, Toni...See MoreOverseed or Start Over?
Comments (70)I got a commission for the Appian Way, so that's on the easel right now. And a lot of cypress. :-) Mostly, my natural instinct is to follow the season itself, so snow when it snows... The great thing about all this is when guests walk in, the wall paintings are always different. :-) If you don't like what you see, come back in three months. So while we're due for yet another punch of a three inch storm tomorrow, I'm mixing bright and dark greens, sun-warmed grays and working with ruddy Titanate off-whites. Overseeding would definitely be best done in fall, but if you have to in spring, you have to. Just be prepared to coddle that over summer. In that case, you can use Mesotrione as a pre-emergent, or Tenacity (they're the same thing). Sprayed Tenacity will take out a fair percentage of weeds, and keep weeds from sprouting in those locations for about thirty days. It's not easy on fescues, but they'll survive the experience and sprout through it, but they tend to whiten a bit. While a bit ghostly-looking, they'll recover. Starter fertilizer with Mesotrione, if used when overseeding, keeps the weeds down for 30 days during the overseed period. It's not perfect, but it does certainly help, and it's the only pre-emergent you can use with northern grass seed. I do wish they'd make it available without the fertilizer, which new grass doesn't really need, but the only other option is to spray with Tenacity (which would actually be just fine and I recommend that instead if the person has it)....See More- 10 years ago
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Glenn Jones(9b)