Is it both hot and cold water, or just one line? Probably doesn't make any difference, though. It sounds like a failed solenoid problem (though having both run would make me think it's a problem closer to the central electronic brains which would be more complicated). Anywho - the water supply lines are controlled by electronic devices that tell them to turn on/off for certain predetermined periods within the selected cycles. It sounds like one (or both?) of the lines has got itself stuck in the ON position. It could be something simple enough to fix by just deconnecting and reconnecting the connectors, but it may be a busted solenoid that will have to be replaced. Doesn't sound like a big job - I know we would tackle it ourselves. The tricky part would be figuring out which part to order. Miele parts are not cheap, though may be more reasonable in Canada. Shipping/handling directly from Miele in the USA is extremely pricey. OTOH, you can (with a little effort) get through to very knowledgeable c/s people who will help you get what you need. I usually have to been a bit persistent about not wanting or needing a service call, but it's not hard to get beyond that, well, most of the time. The good news is that the machines are quite easy and straightforward to work on - the Miele value of highly rational mechanical design is a joy to work with. A word to wise on Mieles: if what you think should be coming apart doesn't do so in a pretty easy way -STOP! You may be doing it wrong. Identifying and getting the right part shouldn't be too hard. IIRC the solenoids and electronic water controlling harness are are easy to access. I have a 1986 apart in my garage right now and I can check tomorrow to see if you have to open the front to get the top off, or not. (I only opened it up a few months ago, but I'm sorry I've had other things on my mind lately and I can't quite recall.) The part may be a bit pricey (not this part in particular, just Miele parts aren't cheap!), but I don't think it's a death knell for your machine. Once fixed, it should go back to work for a long time. It must be awfully hard to spin your clothes dry with the water running! HTH.

The consensus in the lactation and health arenas is that you should continue to nurse as long as both you and your child would like. No rules! Every day (or month, or year) is great for both of you. This is a personal thing between mother and child, and children who no longer care to nurse, for whatever reason, simply stop showing interest. Other people may continue to have opinions on this and other aspects of your life, mothering and otherwise, but hey! Only you know what works for you, and feels good. What works may vary from mom to mom, and from child to child. For the record, La Leche League has no official recommendations on length of nursing, just plenty of information and a great network for mothers, health care professionals, etc. There are articles and links on the website. If issues come up (from biting to nosy neighbors) meetings are a great place to check in for both parenting and lactation feedback/dialogue. If there are no meetings in your area you can check out online meetings through the website. There isn't one way to nurse -- both a good thing and a challenge! For those of you out there "still nursing," enjoy! Soon enough children grow up and that nursing season is a sweet memory. Like other sweet memories, we tend not to wish we spent less time cuddling those closest to us. And nursing is, first and last, a great cuddle, with nutrition and immune factors a fabulous side bonus! Here is a link that might be useful: La Leche League International

Let's start with a brief explanation of why you should not be feeding your fish during winter. As the water cools in the autumn, the fish start slowing down in preparation for a period of semi-dormancy. Their digestive and immune systems slow down, and they are not capable of digesting the same types of foods that they can during the warmer months. Koi are particularly susceptible to problems at this time, as they have no stomach to aid in digestion; food passes directly into their small intestines, where it will sit and rot. The ensuing intestinal bacteria can pass into their bloodstream, causing sepsis which will debilitate or even kill the immune-suppressed fish. The general rule of thumb is to slow feeding when the water starts to cool into the upper 50s farenheit, feeding small amounts of low protein food a few times a week, and to quit feeding altogether when the water reaches 50. (A thermometer can be purchased for minimal cost and should be suspended in the pond, about 18 inches deep.) If the fish are still hungry, they'll find algae and other natural delights to sustain them, and these simple foods found in the pond will be more easily digested. The above rule, however, applies only to those of us who live in a climate with cold winters. Those living in climates where the water hovers around the 50-55 degree mark have a challenge. As stated, the fish's immune systems are not working up to par at lower temperatures, however, many "bad" bacteria are still active at these temperatures and can create problems in the weakened fish. In these cases, a small quantity of medicated food fed once or twice a week can help the fish withstand the bacterial attack. (Some people also salt their pond at this time as a prevention against parasites that are still active at lower temperatures. There is good information on the Koivet website on salting the pond.) If you feed your fish during this time, be sure to monitor ammonia levels, as the fish will be giving off ammonia in their waste and the bacteria in your biofilter will not be working at these low temperatures. (When testing winter water, always warm the water sample to room temperature before testing.) As the water warms into the fifties in the spring, you can slowly start feeding again. Beware the false spring syndrome! Many people are excited at the prospect of the first warm spring-like days and the increase in fish activity, and begin feeding, only to find the temperatures plunging into the thirtys within days. *BE PATIENT* and wait until you're sure your water temperatures are stable before you begin feeding. Once the water reaches a stable 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it is a good idea to start feeding with a small amount (two or three times a week for no more than three weeks) of medicated food containing Romet or Terramycin, supplemented by low protein, high carbohydrate foods such as wheat germ, cooked squash, brown bread, dark greens (not iceberg lettuce), and fruits high in Vitamin C. As the temps head into the higher 50s, start adding a bit of low-protein pellets to their diet, and increase feedings to four or five times a week if the fish are hungry. As the water heads into the sixties, start increasing the protein in their food. By the time the water is 65-72 F the majority of their food should be a good quality, high-protein food. Avoid foods that contain corn and other plant proteins as primary ingredients; the protein should be from fish or seafood to ensure the fish are getting the proper balance of amino acids that they need to thrive. Fruits, vegetables, shrimp and other live foods can also be given during the warm, active months of the year. Observe your fish closely during spring warm up, as this is when they are most susceptible to bacterial and parasitic invaders. Do NOT overfeed, and be sure to scoop out any uneaten food so it doesn't foul the water. It is best to err on the side of under-feeding and allow your fish to eat the easily digested algae that is often prolific at this time of year, rather than over feed the wrong foods and cause additional stress to your friends as they make the often difficult spring-time transition. Ronaye, Steve and David

Roses can withstand freezing temperatures down to about 28 degrees with little to no damage. It also matters what the duration of the freeze is. If it's getting down to 26 degrees but only for an hour or two at night before the temps begin to rise above freezing again then they usually will not sustain much damage. You're not dealing with days, and sometimes weeks, of below freezing temps the way we do up North. I still believe that if your roses are actively growing you can fertilize them no matter what time of year it is. If they are growing they are using up nutrients and those will need to be replaced. As others have stated, you should probably stop feeding them, or slow down/curtail feeding them, more so in the summer when they slow down rather than in the winter when it is cool enough for them to put on new growth.