Figs also will exude some sap when pruned or scratched. They are marginally hardy here. My neighbor up the street has something resembling this growing in her yard, but it's not a fig. It puts up many fast growing, tall herbaceous shoots in summer and I don't recall its bloom or its fruit. (this is my second summer here.) I've been curious about it and have planned to try and visit and ask her. There are all kinds of unusual things in her yard, one even looks like a loquat, but they're not hardy here....hope I can follow this thread to find out what you've got. -perL

Herman, I'm not sure whether it's breba or main crop...I just assumed it was breba, since it's coming out early. But, 'm not that knowledgeable about about this in general. I'm interested to hear more about your last sentence..." Of course If yours doesn't drop main crop at all that will be very important,but I wouldn't commit to grow it again only if I am sure of it." What do you mean that it would be important if it doesn't drop? Also, what do you mean that you wouldn't commit to growing it unless sure? Thanks, Geoff

i go with norfolk ... not sure its really a pine ... so go with the latin name ... its a houseplant for most of us.. and i recommend that forum if you are going to keep it potted ... i am not sure its a full sun plant in a pot .... and that is why it does ok indoors .... i am sure it can do great things in its native habitat.. but that would not include a pot ... you dont mention where you are.. it might not favor winter outdoors ... they are extremely cheap at bigboxstore... i dont recommend spending a lot of money to try to save this rather common plant ... it most likely needs to be repotted.. and so i include PROPER MEDIA in the cost .. ken

There is a growth regulator/hormone (auxin) produced primarily in the growing tips of branches (apical meristems) that SUPPRESSES lateral growth (side branching) proximal to the growing tip, so removing the growing tip is the surest way to force branching. To increase ramification (branch and leaf density), you would cut all branches with 3 or more leaves back to 2 leaves, paying closer attention to the upper part of the tree and letting the lower part slide a little. While this might seem to be drastic the first time you do it, staying on top of your 'pinching' means that in subsequent sessions you'll only be tip pruning. If the branch in question is in the top 1/3 of the plant, I'd definitely prune it back to 2 leaves because of the plant's natural tendency to devote 2/3 of its energy outlay in the upper 1/3 of the plant. That also means, unless you want a very top-heavy tree you need to act as the plant's director of energy allocation by thwarting the tree's never ending tendency to grow long/tall instead of compact and bushy. It's easy to do, but can't be done w/o a commitment on your part. I'd prune the 2 strong branches back to 2 leaves and take some off the top - whatever you think is appropriate. You won't be sacrificing the tree's health, and the tree will look better immediately as well as in the future - it's a win/win plan. Al