Look for a container several gallon capacity and place plant several nodes deeper than original container. If in windy area you can use thin bamboo sticks and affix the green stretchy tape to secure it. When plant eventually reaches height you like cut the top portion. Eventually you can place plant in larger container again, here i use 30g containers. Look for container in this picture far left about 3g for example, the larger ones are 25/30g.Martin

Re potting mixes: https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-home/11847-successful-potting-mix-recipes Re best container to use: https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-home/924-best-size-container I have my figs in 5 gallon buckets and in this mix: 5-1-1-1: 62.5% - 12.5% - 12.5% -12.5% (pine bark - peat - perlite - calcined clay). The buckets have 3/4 inch holes drilled on the sides near the bottom. I bury the buckets in about 9 inches of mulch and the roots come out of the holes into the mulch and into the ground. This lessens the amount of watering that I have to do because they get their water from the ground. In the fall, I use a spade to cut the roots and bring the trees into winter storage. You are more likely to find answers to your fig questions on ourfigs.com than on this forum.

Tell us more about what you want, a shade tree or figs to eat. If you want to eat figs, that 'bush' is well formed. I had 4 plants in a 12' x 14' space between 2 driveways in Palo Alto, CA. Each year there is at least the chance of a few days in the mid to upper 20's F. I learned about controlling height after the largest had grown so that I needed a ladder to reach the top. I used it to test out new varieties by bark grafting fresh new growth on the donor tree. I'd suggest pruning to restrict the tree to main crop figs; they are the best tasting in my experience. After the last chance of a hard frost I'd cut last year's growth back to 1 bud facing where I wanted the branch to grow. When that reached 6-8 new leaves I'd start pinching out the new growth buds until the season ends. Some varieties only need one pinching, others send up a new shoot that must be removed before it grows to a point that is out of reach. Do an image search on your favorite search engine for the string "fig pruning" to see the possibilities. Remember, main crop figs form at the leaf nodes. Enough for now, baumgrenze Below are 2 photos, one after pruning in late January 2016 and another in mid-May.

Hello Bluemoonlight. Very frustrating. I am growing Chicago hardy , Celeste, Altreano, and Pettite nigro which are suppose to be sweet. But I think the pots dry out every day, that I have been watering so much that the fruit taste bland? Also I either pick them right before they go mushy and the flies get to them. If I wait too late they are almost too soft and yet over ripened. When they drop and they are soft is when I pick them and still not as sweet as the ones I get at the farms. The ones at the farms are almost black and so sweet they almost hurt my sore tooth. I fertilize with a good Cal-Mag from Pete's and fish emulsion every couple of weeks. Ugh Martin, I think I will try that one and the one Bluemoonlight speaks of if I can find those( The ones planted in the ground are all so tall and full of fruit that I wished would survive long enough to ripen( Thank you)