skip to main content

'ATREANO'...Brebas and Main-Crop at same time?

16 years ago

Is it possible, is it likely, to have both brebas, and main-crop figs, ripening at the same time ???????

This past July, I purchased three, 6 FT. trees. At the time of purchase each tree had already set a nice crop of figs. Now, all three trees are ripening fruit, and unless I'm very wrong, two of the trees are ripening figs both on last years' wood, in addition to main-crop figs on current wood !!! I'm new at growing figs, but thanks to Herman2, - and a few others - I now know how to identify a breba from a main-crop fig. However, is it possible that these figs aren't brebas? One of these figs is enormous! ... it's a full 2-1/2" in diameter, excluding the short, neck-section! It was growing from old, bare, wood and had no leaf growing under, above, or, near it. It was growing about 12" back from the terminal-end of the branch. I had to pick it this morning because it looked like it was going to rip-off at the neck, and drop to the ground. So instead, I dropped it into my mouth. It was delicious and sweet. Some figs, - on another of my trees - are also growing the same way, i.e. on old wood. This tree also has a big crop of figs growing from the leaf nodes on this years' wood, and these figs, too, are starting to ripen. This means that on two of my trees, I'm ripening two types of figs, both breba and main-crop. I wish I knew how to include pictures with this posting so I could show you just what I'm trying to describe.

Am I delusional ... non compos mentis, or, what?

Herman2, et al: ... What's going on with these trees? What kind of figs am I seeing? Anybody out there have similar experiences.

FYI: ... "ATREANO" has been a winner in my book! Even with my limited fig-growing experience, I can tell that this variety will perform to all my expectations. The catalog descriptions for this variety were actually right for once! It's a vigorous grower, it bears young, sets a heavy main-crop, it ripens figs at the end of August, and, the figs have a very sweet, jammy flavor. No "rubber-glove" taste here! What else could I ask for? Oh yeah, get this ... not one bird has even touched any of the dozens of golden-green figs! They fly right by my trees. Have they been fooled? The skin is very tender and I've seen no splitting or souring ... but the summer here has been very dry and hot, as figs began to swell and ripen.

I'll grow this variety for a few years to see how it performs. But, so far, so good.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (17)

User
16 years ago
Hi effdeevee:You Are Right :Good Figs behave this way,the first year in the ground.
Your figs will establish next year and have a distinct crop of Breba Early and another Main crop later.
My Marseilles Vs Black,was behaving the same way the second year from cuttings.
Those fig you see at the base of new growth would have been breba,if your fig would have been old.
They do behave and grow like breba but in fact are main crop,or viceversa.
I notice this situation exactly on few figs and they developed without exception ,to be good fully persistent figs with no surprises,(Drop figs,Etc)
Stay well as Antonio say.
0
leon_edmond
16 years ago
Just some past photos of my Atreano. Mine came from cuttings from the mother tree owned by Hanc Mathies, the guy who originally brought Atreano back from Naples, Italy. The rest is history.
0
Related Discussions
Planting multiple times per year in the same space/soil
Q
Comments (13)
Ditto to the above. There are several strategies that can be employed. Intercropping is one, where you have, for instance a leaf crop, a fruiting crop, and a root crop all growing together - for our purposes, lets say arugula, snap peas, and turnips for the early season. Of these, the arugula will be ready for harvest first, then the turnips, then the peas. You could time your planting so that everything is ready at the same time, making the entire bed ready for a new crop. Or, you could plant everything at the same time, meaning you would have a succession of harvests, perhaps overlapping slightly, of 3 different crops. Or, you could stagger your planting dates, so that you get a longer harvest, but less yield on a weekly basis. Each strategy has advantages, depending on your long term plans. For me, staggered plantings of the arugula and turnips make sense, because i want to eat them in a few meals every week, but because the peas will provide a continuous harvest over a longer period - because we're harvesting the fruit, and not the whole plant - I would put in that row all at the same time, and in another bed put in a second row a few weeks later, or establish a succession by planting a variety with a different maturation period. The arugula MAY provide multiple harvests, depending on your method, and will be available first. It is also least tolerant of heat, so will benefit from being shaded by the peas as the season progresses. Because it will see the most attention, I would plant it at the outside of my bed, where it is easiest to reach. The turnips, being root crops, will cause some disturbance when they are harvested, so I will make sure that they are not too closely spaced, to the other turnips, but also to the other crops in the bed. The peas will be comparatively tall when they are ready to harvest, so the shade that they produce will need to be accounted for in the layout of the bed - not only in terms of North-South-East-West, but if the row is in the middle, with other crops on either side, or on one edge, where the effect of shading is reduced. Assuming 70 days for the peas to mature, and perhaps 2 weeks of harvest, it's possible that you could have the entire bed emptied and ready to plant on 3 months, but that would mean a significant amount of space was being underutilized where the arugula and turnips were removed. You could choose to reseed those areas with your second crop, but it would be more time-efficient to transplant. In the interest of rotation, and taking into account the season, you might put in cucumbers, to climb the trellis soon to be vacated by the peas, or eggplant, or squash. Broccoli would work, but it's a heavy feeder, and it's related to turnips, so less ideal. Greens could work, but you're getting into the warmest part of the season, so kale would be a better choice than spinach. And ideally you want whatever you plant to be ripe and ready in time to get a third crop into the ground - and ripe - before winter sets in, so maturity dates become even more important as you do your planning later in the season. Otherwise, you'll get to the end of the growing season, and unless you have some kind of season-extension tactics, the only thing able to grow to maturity in your garden will be 25-day radishes, and really, how many of those do you want to eat? Another consideration is how you will deal with the harvest. If you are growing only to have fresh vegetables for the length of the growing season, successions are the way to go. But if you want to freeze pesto or can tomato sauce or make pickles, you want a large harvest all at once so that you can efficiently process your produce. Personally, I don't want to be stuck in a hot kitchen on August, so I schedule some of my plantings so that the canning can take place, as much as possible, in the cooler months, and the foods that can be enjoyed raw are coming ripe in summer. That means not only making choices about crops, but about varieties - slicing tomatoes to ripen early, but plum tomatoes in September, or Hakuri turnips to eat in summer, and purple-tops, which taste better cooked, for fall. As you can see, the process of multiple cropping is wonderfully complex. This is just one example, with only a few crops, and doesn't fully incorporate the varying needs of water, nutrients, and sunlight that a detailed plan should include. Short maturity crops like radishes and salad greens can often simply be tucked in wherever space and time allow without much planning, and having seedlings always on hand to transplant will provide you with a denser harvest schedule, but a successful plan for multiple harvests is a multi-dimensional puzzle, involving space, time, species, cultural requirements, season, and use. Personally, I enjoy the complexity, it's like a game of chess, or planning a perfect heist, but for some people it can seem daunting. It is probably best, in the beginning, to follow one simple rule - plant something every week, and when you harvest one crop, renew the soil (I add lots of compost, and nothing more) and plant again. Lastly (for now), although you are growing in the same space, it is never the same soil. It is important to renew the soil regularly, to replace all of the nutrients that multiple cropping removes. Lots of compost, and fertilizer when needed, will go a long way towards providing a good succession.
...See More
is it too late to plant a cover crop for this year's tomatoes?
Q
Comments (6)
Yes..........definitely do not plant Nettles and Comfrey. If you do you will be sorry for the rest of your life. Comfrey tea is very good. If you have a large property go out on the back forty and plant Comfrey in a fence row. Investigate to find a leaf supply. Use them for so called free mulch. My supply is three city blocks away at the Township yard waste collection place. They are all free. Tomatoes are heavy feeders. If you can put a gallon of compost in each planting hole you may have enough. I would consider purchasing a bag of organic fertilizer with low numbers like 4-2-4. One handful when planting and a top dressing of a handful when the first bloom is set. It sounds to me like you are planting a whole lot of tomatoes. If you are heavy eaters figure just two plants to each member of your family. Twice that will give you between ten and twenty pints to freeze. These are minimal estimates. I would hate to see you needing to hire help just to pick them all. You are definitely thinking the right direction. Without some kind of cover crop or cover mulch you may be thinking to big. I have never used a cover crop while growing. Any cover mulch will work but the supply of material should be close by at the time you need it. My personal experience is that if I do not have huge pile of material waiting it just does not get done. That is when the trouble begins. Hope this gives you some things to consider. I like the original question. Your care to tell us where you are in process helped me to think I know where you are heading. I hope you get several other responses from which you may consider and choose some advise.
...See More
Desert King producing main crop in hot summer area?
Q
Comments (2)
Nice photos! Looks like you lucked out with some healthy trees. I have an English Brown Turkey from Burnt Ridge. I got it last year and it produced one very late fig which tasted good. The same tree produced about 12 figs this year with the quality exponentially better. Only the figs are medium size and not large like the catalogue describes. You're right about Desert King producing brebas but your trees are still very young and therefore fruit production on the Desert King is just delayed this first season. Hopefully you'll get some ripe fruits before the end of the season and if so, don't be surprized if they are smaller than expected size for Desert King and the flavor, suboptimal. You have to give these immature trees two or three seasons to start producing quality fruit. I have a Violette Sollies which is two years old and produced two figs this season. One ripened two weeks ago and the other one is just now swelling. The first fig was medium size and tasted pretty good for being relatively immature. I know for a fact that next season, it will be even better! You did well by ordering from Burnt Ridge. They rank with places like Paradise Nursery.
...See More
What's your best seller/most profitable crop?
Q
Comments (30)
Desirae, I pick only the male blossoms( they only bloom for one day before falling off anyway) early in the morning and put them in a cooler to let the bees and bugs escape. I then put them in a Ziplock and into the fridge. They will keep for several days. Winter squash and pumpkins make the best blossoms. I'll advertise them on my mailings, and I have agreement w/my restaurant for anywhere from 500-1200 per week, depending on demand. I'll also take a few to the market and sell them there. My fruit production has never been hurt by harvesting all those males either. If you are going to the effort of planting asparagus for sales, I would advise going w/roots and the all male varieties. The long term production from them is significantly greater. The purple variety is impressive too. You'll get huge stalks, a lot of them, and it's recommended they be planted closer together. Planting seeds means you don't know what the plants have crossed with and you'll likely get a preponderous number of females, which expend a lot of energy making seeds rather than stalks. Actually, you'll still get roughly 25% females w/the supposed "all male" varieties as it is. There are some places you can get good roots at a great price--ie Simmons in Ark and DeBruyn in Mich.
...See More
loslunasfarms
16 years ago
Leon, how is the taste with our heat?
0
bjs496
16 years ago
As it turns out, while vacationing in St. Thomas, my son met a girl who lives in West Babylon. So while he was playing mini golf, I drove out to Zaino's.

I'm not sure what they have is the "real" Atreano. The Atreano I have (from Paradise Nursery) resembles Leon's. But the one at Zaino's does not.

Here is the fruit from my tree from last year:

Here is the fruit from the Golden Atreano at Zaino's:

The leaf lobe shape is different and the fruit is much more yellow (I guess that is where the "Golden" comes in). I was tempted to pluck this fig and take a picture of the pulp color, but it wasn't quite ripe.

BTW, FDV, if you are interested in another fig tree, Hick's (about three miles down the Jericho Turnpike) has/had a 15g tree labeled "Genoa". It was a nice tree with a solid trunk and four good branches. It has a few smaller limbs which look like they froze last year, but if you remove those, it was a nice tree. They have it marked from $120 to about $45. I can't say if it is accurately labeled

~james
0
effdeevee
Original Author
16 years ago
Herman2:
Thanks for all the information. I suspected that something strange was going on with the figs that were growing on two of my trees. I was happy to learn that the figs were not true brebas. Now I can let them, finish ripening. The first "fake breba" that ripened was quite sweet and juicy. Will these trees produce brebas next Spring? I'll chop them off for a better main-crop, just like you suggest. Should brebas be nipped-off while still very small?

leon edmond:
The ATREANO" pictures are great! Your figs seem to be a little greener than the figs that are ripening on my trees. My figs turn a soft, golden yellow, with a matte texture ... like suede. They are very sweet, with a jammy texture, and I wait until the very last minute to pick them. I let them hang for at least 4 days, and, when fully-ripe they just about fall into my hand when picked. They seem to just rip away at the neck/stem juncture. I had no splitting or souring at all, but the weather has been very hot, and, bone-dry over the last two weeks. I've been lucky for a first-time grower. Could you give me the history behind this variety? I'd love to know more about "ATREANO". I plan on growing this variety for a long time, and background information, etc, etc, would really be appreciated. Who is/was Hanc Mathies? How long has this particular variety been around?

bjs496:
Thanks for the information. I was a little dismayed to learn that the trees from Zaino's may not be the real "ATREANO"! I thought named varieties of fig-trees, and other plants, were standardized, and vegetatively-propagated so that all progeny was genetically identical. Is this not true for fig-trees also? How could your "ATREANO' be so different than mine? Im confused. The labels on the trees that I bought read: "GOLDEN ATREANO". Is this a different cultivar? Somebody out there ... please set me straight with all this labeling nonsense.

Anyway, I could not be happier with the "GOLDEN ATREANO". The figs are very large, most are a full 2-1/2" at the base, very sweet, and juicy. They taste nothing like the little, black, "corks" that my neighbors grow! I especially like the rich, soft golden-yellow color of the ripe figs, and the skin feels like the softest suede. No leaking eyes, either.

Thanks to all of you who shared your knowledge. Just by reading through all your past postings I've learned more about growing figs than any books could've taught me. I'm glad I joined the Fig-Forum, and enjoy reading about your experiences.
0
User
16 years ago
Hi, effdeevee:You Take off breba only if main crop is better tasting and numerous.It is up to you.If the breba is just as good as main crop i do not see the point of taking it off.But if only a few fruits,then yes they will retard the main crop and it might not ripe.So you loose more if you leave breba on.Regards
0
effdeevee
Original Author
16 years ago
Herman2:

Thanks for all your help answering my questions. I need all the help I can get. In order for me to know if breba crop has a great flavor I would have to let the figs grow to full-ripeness, and then, eat them ... correct?

Also, I want to reduce the height of my trees to about half. Right now, the trees are about 5-1/2ft. tall, and all the branches that are now bearing figs will be cut-off if I prune back as much as I want. The branches that I remove will be cut into sections and rooted, and then, potted-up for the Spring-'08 growing season. Should I wait until next spring for drastic pruning? If I prune-back this hard, all that will be left will be three, 1" diameter stems about 2-1/2 feet long ... and, no branches on the stems at all. When is the best time to prune? I would guess the best time is just before the new spring growth starts, or is there a better time to do this? Anybody ...suggestions, please!

Herman2:
I hope you will continue to post on the FF. I just read your disturbing entry re: closing down your page. I hope that this is not an end to your expert advice, and I hope that you have no further troubles.

Peace and many thanks, ..... Frank DV
0
User
16 years ago
Hi Frank:All is ok.
You got it :Spring is best time to prune if you put your tree inside .for winter .If it is outside inground then take as many cuttings as you can in the Fall because it might die to ground over the winter no matter how you protect it.If inside take cutting when you want to root Feb.-March
That is how i do it
Stay well
0
effdeevee
Original Author
16 years ago
Herman2:

Thanks for getting back to me so soon. I guess that it's all right to cut my trees almost in half. Also thanks for continuing to post answers. Hoping one day that I might get a chance to visit you and see some of your fabulous trees, and, to talk "fig".

Peace, and, thanks .... Frank DV from: Da-Bronx
0
palmfan
16 years ago
Does anyone have a potted Atreano or cuttings to sell or trade? I have Desert King, Celeste, Magnolia, Eastern Brown Turkey, White Marseilles cuttings, and a potted young plant of an unknown variety to offer. Contact me via email. I am in southern New Jersey.
0
figuring
15 years ago
I'm new to fruit tree gardening and just got a Golden Atreano from Zaino's. I read all your entries w/ great interest. What size pot do I need? Can I keep it in the heated indoors over the winter? or does it need a certain number of wks of no watering cold dormancy?
Just out of curiosity, how are cutting and propagating done? Although this may sound premature question, I do plan on pruning the fig quit a bit to keep it small and don't want to waste the branches that are cut off.
Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks
0
loslunasfarms
15 years ago
Hmmm, here is my Atreano:
0
nhardy
15 years ago
Hey Figuring, I'm a newbie too. This is what I have learn so far from the threads.
I would not put indoors to a heater room. It needs a rest.
I potted my 1 gallon fig into a 10 inch pot, a little too big but it will grow. It was a cheap $5 pot from that Wal- store. I'll get a better pot in two years. So in three years I will repot it with new soil & prune the roots. (search for the tread with photos on pruning, there are a few threads on what to use as soil. Did you find the thread on Herman's pinching tips?) So in the fall you will get a hard freeze to make all the leaves fall. I think the temp. is to be no lower than 25 degrees. My garage is unheated but has a end gable vent. It may get below 10 degrees. So until I can close this vent, I'll take it to the basement away from the window to sleep for the winter. I'll have to remember to give it a little drink every so many weeks. The balancing of not to much and not to little. Then in spring I'll bring it up. I'll have to harden it off before I can put it into full direct sunlight.
0
danab_z9_la
15 years ago
Loslunasfarms, was the mother tree to your fig a small tree almost dwarf?

Dan
0
figuring
15 years ago
Hi, nhardy:
Thanks for your tips. some times it's hard to refind the tips and tread that I've been on. So many fig threads. I read that you are not to water or touch it at all if it stays dormant for the winter.
Also, my tree is about 3-4ft tall. I guess it's possible that it is only a 1-2 year old tree. How big of a pot you think I need? Where are you located?
Thanks again
0
loslunasfarms
15 years ago
Dan, no the mother tree was a full large tree.
0
nhardy
15 years ago
I'm in the Gateway to the west, in one of those 97 little cities in the county not the CITY. I have dahlias that I dig up every fall before the frost. Through the winter, I give them a little water so the bulbs don't dry out. Not to much, but enough to let them hold some water in their bulbs. I plan on giving the fig at least 8oz. every few weeks after it dries out from being brought it. (The trees outdoor get rain in the winter.) My tree was in a 1 gallon 6 in. pot when it arrived, repotted to 10 in. pot. It was 2 1/2 ft. stick newly air layered with zero branches. It has one fig & many branches now. Look at the pot you have now, size up at least a gallon. Get a dirt cheat pot. Then you size up next year until the third year & get one of those big tubs with handles that you chill the beers in. Just add a few drain & you are set after you trim the roots. I think they said they 15 in across. And don't lift with the handle, they are for looks.
0

Related Stories

FARM YOUR YARD If You Have Room for Only One Summer Crop ...

Get an edible that’s long on flavor even if you’re short on space, with a long-time gardener’s favorite picks

GARDENING GUIDES Organic Matters: Thwart Insect Pests With Trap Crops

By Therese Ciesinski

Add a few sacrificial plants to your garden to lure insects away from the harvest

EDIBLE GARDENS How to Grow Your Own Sweet Summer Crops

By Marianne Lipanovich

This guide will help any gardener get started on growing the freshest warm-season veggies and berries for summer

EDIBLE GARDENS Summer Crops: How to Grow Squash

By Marianne Lipanovich

Almost foolproof and with cheerful flowers, squash comes in a wide range of varieties to plant in spring

SUMMER FRUITS AND VEGETABLES Summer Crops: How to Grow Cucumbers

By Marianne Lipanovich

Pick a peck for pickles or opt for fewer and raw — no matter how you slice them, cucumbers are great for summer gardens small to large

SUMMER FRUITS AND VEGETABLES How to Grow Your Own Fresh, Sweet Corn

By Marianne Lipanovich

Here's how to plant and care for your own mini cornfield

EDIBLE GARDENS Summer Crops: How to Grow Tomatoes

By Marianne Lipanovich

Plant tomato seedlings in spring for one of the best tastes of summer, fresh from your backyard

MOST POPULAR Summer Crops: How to Grow Sunflowers

By Marianne Lipanovich

Savor snack-tastic sunflower seeds once the radiant blooms have faded — if the birds have saved you any, that is

EDIBLE GARDENS Summer Crop: How to Grow Blueberries

By Marianne Lipanovich

Plant blueberries in spring or fall for garden beauty through three seasons — and a sweet superfood in summer

GARDENING GUIDES 10 Easy Edibles for First-Time Gardeners

By Marianne Lipanovich

Focus on these beginner-friendly vegetables, herbs, beans and salad greens to start a home farm with little fuss

Sponsored

Shylee Grossman Interiors

Industry Leading Interior Designers & Decorators in Franklin County

More Discussions

Hello everyone...

1

Spring is here and fig season just in front the gates

3

Winter Fig Tree concerns

3

Fig is dying out

4